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The osteoporosis dinos that I have all go swimming at night, my sand is white as can be once the lights turn off. In the water column should be good enough to get passed through the UV and zapped.You needed to remove them then install uv
Leaving them in as a benthic matted community short changes the goal
I did use this method (exactly a week ago actually) and my amphidinium dinos dramatically improved. However, they are growing back (weaker and slower) and I am now continuing the battle.this portion was in line with our findings:
I should note I lost almost all of my sps over the course of the infestation
we find that making a reef tank free of dinos by manual work first, hard manual work vs internal upwelling of them is ideal
we don't leave dinos to irritate corals in rip clean threads, they're hammered out. first day they're hammered.
the dinos battle thread using methods in this thread is up to about 600 pages in the nuisance algae forum. we can see in a high % of posts, not a low %, that tradeoff invasions (going between dinos to GHA and Cyano cyclically) are very likely in any setting where dinos are seen, then left in a tank to proliferate.
contrast that approach with these fifty pages, how many dinos outbreaks came after our deep manual cleans? that's eight years running tests...how many tanks lost sps there, or went between dinos/cyano/hair algae
So your bag of sand says not to rinse :) Our thread exists to prevent that above. The whole purpose of this thread is to show you the biology of safe tank handling, transfer, cleaning and upgrades how to physically handle reef substrates so your tank doesn't die. that's a medical...www.reef2reef.com
correct physical hammering has benefits, wanted to post what a hammer looks like.
Jake commented once that not addressing the source of the problem is a guaranteed dinos issue, I agree. the source of the problem are cells left in the tank vs removed
it's not about added doser meds, or adjusting N and P using wildly varying test kits, work threads and logged outcomes speak volumes on what causes and fixes varying conditions in the reef.
it is highly accurate to say, based on solid results above, that if Jake removes his sandbed, fights dinos among cleaned rocks not even rocks still left covered in them, installs UV in the clean condition vs the invaded condition, he would get those same results we've been earning.
he would then install back the sandbed much later after the system runs without UV and without dinos for eight weeks. we would do opposite of what people do in the 600 page dinos thread, which is clearly risking a lot of reef tanks to tradeoff invasion losses and sps coral losses.
scroll through that thread above and look at just the before and after pictures.
compare the before and after pictures to this big dinos thread, which nearly always leaves dinos in the tank massed and does not permit direct removal:
@ecas12 Vacuuming out nuisance is good and necessary. Don't leave it for the sake of competition. Not clear to me what type it is from those pics. Video might help. Fuge may or may not make a difference. I'd go ahead with whatever the overall plan was. Thanks for the advice. Going to start...www.reef2reef.com
in that indirect removal study of 600 pages, they routinely are adjusting N and P and they do not recommend cleaning nor water changes out of fear of upwelling dinos. I rate their cure rate at 10% happy reefers. 60% reinvasions / benthic succession of invasions and 40% works in process still not very many shocking after pics of total clarity.
between those two starkly different threads studying invasion control, which one is the hammer-go solely off the after pics posted on each page of the two threads. select the name of any poster in the two threads, select 'find all posts' and review their thread history after trying the two different means to a clean tank.
manual physical decisive controls clearly win, and hold sustains better than hands off modes, the truth is that out method is only helpful for medium to small sized reef tanks, large tanks simply can't do the surgical means necessary to control so those hands off means still are a valid science in development. Jakes tank wouldnt be hard to fix manually given its layout and stocking density.
given the small % invasion as UV is installed there's also a good change they'll die back in a week or so, the real test comes 60 days after turning off the UV>