KJoFan's SCA 150g Build
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KJoFan
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Thanks!
The acros are doing alright. They are still alive and appear healthy. My purple slimer turned green though so...not everything is perfect.
I bumped lighting intensity up 10% to see if perhaps it's a low par issue. Everything else looks pretty good though. But, I'm not in a rush to laod up on acros just yet.
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
First, the GHA battle is ongoing.
But, the biggest issue I’ve been facing I’ve come to realize is ever since moving 5 years ago, I have not had a tank thrive like I did in my previous house.
Water source is different (worse). But, is that really the culprit?
Some recent test results from my city:
Water does go through a softener before the ro/di. I’ve switched to a three stage DI process using the separate anion and cation beds and finishing with a mixed bed. Cation is used pretty quickly.
The other difference is the tank is located on the lower level of a split level home. I’m sure CO2 levels are higher causing lower ph.
ICP tests on water haven’t shown anything majorly off so I just don’t know what to point the finger at but the fact remains I have far less coral success in this house. In fact, to the degree that I’m wondering if it’s worth it anymore.
Another thing I can think of is I have predominantly used leds for lights here where I used T5 previously but that’s not an exclusive change. Meaning I did use leds in the old house some as well.
So, is this a thing? Can there really be something that’s just preventing success or have I just lost my touch?
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But, the biggest issue I’ve been facing I’ve come to realize is ever since moving 5 years ago, I have not had a tank thrive like I did in my previous house.
Water source is different (worse). But, is that really the culprit?
Some recent test results from my city:
Water does go through a softener before the ro/di. I’ve switched to a three stage DI process using the separate anion and cation beds and finishing with a mixed bed. Cation is used pretty quickly.
The other difference is the tank is located on the lower level of a split level home. I’m sure CO2 levels are higher causing lower ph.
ICP tests on water haven’t shown anything majorly off so I just don’t know what to point the finger at but the fact remains I have far less coral success in this house. In fact, to the degree that I’m wondering if it’s worth it anymore.
Another thing I can think of is I have predominantly used leds for lights here where I used T5 previously but that’s not an exclusive change. Meaning I did use leds in the old house some as well.
So, is this a thing? Can there really be something that’s just preventing success or have I just lost my touch?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First, the GHA battle is ongoing.
But, the biggest issue I’ve been facing I’ve come to realize is ever since moving 5 years ago, I have not had a tank thrive like I did in my previous house.
Water source is different (worse). But, is that really the culprit?
Some recent test results from my city:
Water does go through a softener before the ro/di. I’ve switched to a three stage DI process using the separate anion and cation beds and finishing with a mixed bed. Cation is used pretty quickly.
The other difference is the tank is located on the lower level of a split level home. I’m sure CO2 levels are higher causing lower ph.
ICP tests on water haven’t shown anything majorly off so I just don’t know what to point the finger at but the fact remains I have far less coral success in this house. In fact, to the degree that I’m wondering if it’s worth it anymore.
Another thing I can think of is I have predominantly used leds for lights here where I used T5 previously but that’s not an exclusive change. Meaning I did use leds in the old house some as well.
So, is this a thing? Can there really be something that’s just preventing success or have I just lost my touch?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm with you, I had great success years ago now not as much. I am in a different city and its a different tank. I'm giving it one more shot with another brand new tank because I'm chasing my old results and joy I used to get from the hobby. But, if my last couple tanks were my first couple tanks, I'd be done forever already. What did your ICP results for your tank water show for tin (Sn)?
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
I guess I'm glad to know I'm not alone, however I'm sorry to hear you're struggling too.
I took an ICP test in June 2018 and Tin was 39.54. I spent time checking all magnets/pumps etc and didn't find any major issues but did swap a few things out.
I took another test in April 2019 and Tin was at 10.08. So it had dropped quite a bit. But, my success has not seen as dramatic of an improvement, if at all.
Are you battling Tin issues? I did think it was the culprit of my sps RTN but now I'm not so sure because I still can't keep sps...
Yeah I am and I think that’s what makes sps difficult now. I meant to say above, if it wasn’t for my first couple tanks being such successful sps tanks, I would have quit the hobby by now with the results from my last tank. For me it’s grow acropora or nothing.
I’m going to send you a PM.
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
Do you mean physically or programming?
Either way, they are on opposing ends of the tank and both run on constant at 40%. I’m not fancy.
. Not a good pic but that’s how they look.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I would probably play with some of the preset programs they have but you shouldn't have to. Do you have any SPS frags in the tank right now?Do you mean physically or programming?
Either way, they are on opposing ends of the tank and both run on constant at 40%. I’m not fancy.
Not a good pic but that’s how they look.
Since you aren't alternating them you aren't going to establish circuilating gyres in your tank. If you have SPS in the system I would lower the gyres to be aiming right at the top of the rocks where the SPS are. See if that helps their overall health.
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
No, none in the display currently. Just the one in the frag system sitting on a rack and loving life. Lol
I’ve been pulling my rocks and scrubbing them to control GHA so the scape is kind of haphazard. Then again, I’m not great at that in the first place.
I did run one of the preset programs for awhile but can’t recall why I changed exactly. I will mess again as there’s really nothing to harm by doing so.
I am slowly collecting a few sps pieces again so I’d like to get the main tank hospitable at some point so they don’t have to live in the frag/grow out forever. [emoji3]
I know the Mitras are capable it just seems like for me, leds require more exact parameters all the way around which I’m not that good at achieving apparently.
I have pulled a ton of GHA over the past few weeks. I still have some but nowhere near what I had. I expected to see nutrient rise somewhat with the absence of the algae but testing last night I got the same readings I’ve been getting which is 10 NO3 and .04 PO4 which is in a pretty good range I think. So, who knows. I’m sure some is still tied up by what algae is still there.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Going back through your build thread made it look like things were going well before you had the AEFW. I noticed you had different power heads at that point and that they were pointing more directly at the rock structures. That is why I think it may help to lower your powerheads.
Pruning GHA or any algae can actually encourage growth. You are removing mass, but you are also removing the self shading and increase flow of nutrients to other parts of the algae. It's not uncommon at all for nutrients to not change or even drop after a large amount of manual removal.
One nice thing about the Mitras is that they use several white LED's along with the bandwidth specific ones. A white LED works almost exactly like a T5 bulb where the actual LED light excites a florescent coating on the lens. The composition of that coating determines the "color" of the white light. There is no actual LED that can produce a white light since white is a broader spectrum. I would be very surprised, short of it being an intensity issue, if you have a lighting issue. If your PAR is good, you should be fine. I actually have light envy!
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
Yeah, I had the 6095's in the main tank along with a pair of 6105's. One of my 6105's gave up on me, so I pulled those and replaced with the XF280's. They're probably a bit oversized for the job, but I figured if I ever get to the point of having a full blown sps tank (feeling unlikely right now), they'd probably work out pretty good.
I have to say, the color of the coral in the tank (some lps and zoas) I can't really complain about. The lights bring out good color. I have always had trouble getting Captain America palys to show their true/good colors and they actually look correct in this tank. So, there is that. Small victory!
Sps were doing alright until the AEFW, after which I just pulled everything and called it a day, as I wasn't having success eradicating them otherwise. I tried a few sps back in the fall again, but didn't have luck. But, I also was having trouble keeping nutrients up. Apparently, at some point things tipped the other way and I had more than I thought which brought on the GHA issue..maybe?
I don't know how or if I'll ever fully get rid of the GHA, I do have two urchins in there but I don't know how much they even do. I have a foxface rabbitfish as well, who unfortunately has no interest in it. I should just remove him, he's not much good to me.
I haven't checked par in quite a while as I don't have my own par meter. I think my project is overall reduced down to 65% using acclimation mode. With only a few lps and zoas in there, I don't think I need more than that. Seemed like if I bumped it up it just exacerbated overall algae growth and dusting of the glass.
I don't need a pristine tank, but I would like to get this algae better controlled. I have quite a few frags in my frag tank, as I thought just upping coral population overall might help stabilize things, but I'm not seeing a huge difference yet.
I won't jump on other lighting just yet, but I sure am afraid of putting any sps in the main tank again for fear it will just green/brown out, lose PE and eventually die off like they tend to do.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Algae is just one of those things that will grow in a tank. Not much you can do to stop it and also keep a healthy tank. I've given up with trying to control nutrients with Chaeto and am ordering an ATS. I see algae control as having 2 objectives. Try to force algae to grow where you want it (refugium/ATS) and get something that will eat what grows where you don't want it. I have 5 tangs, a foxface, a starry blenny, 4 short spine urchins, 200+ snails and 40+ hermits and it still isn't good enough. Hence going from the refugium with chaeto to the ATS.
It is nice that you have the frag growing so you know the water quality is good. How long before you think you could get a frag off of that one and try it in your DT?
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
I don't expect a completely algae free tank. I think that's unrealistic. Maybe if I could get some coralline to actually take off on the rocks, that might help too. As I think that tends to outcompete algae to some degree as well.
I also probably need to replenish my CUC sometime, those guys tend to dwindle and disappear. Besides the two urchins I've got two emerald crabs and various snails and just a couple hermits.
I'm running with a refugium currently as it's my preferred. But after chaeto got all clogged with GHA, I switched to sea lettuce. My only gripe with that is that it floats and if you don't block off the grates to the return chamber it clogs that up and causes problems with flow through the sump. So, I don't know if I might move to a reactor or an ATS eventually or what I'll do. I like the true refugium for the pod growth, but they could still flourish without the macro algae. I find reactors to get kind of clogged with detritus if you're not diligently using filter socks or some other manual filtration.
Always something to change/tinker with which isn't always a good idea either.
My only sps right now is an Oregon Tort and it's booger sized, so it will be awhile. I've got two more sps pieces coming today, I could try one of those in the main tank just to test it out.
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KJoFan
Valuable Member
Current state of things. Still battling the GHA monster.
It’s not pretty. I’m debating between more manual removal and peroxide usage and deep sand bed cleaning with maybe some removal of some sand.
Or, replacement of some if not all current rock with TBS live rock.
I haven’t fully decided and maybe either option is viable. Time will tell.
It’s not pretty. I’m debating between more manual removal and peroxide usage and deep sand bed cleaning with maybe some removal of some sand.
Or, replacement of some if not all current rock with TBS live rock.
I haven’t fully decided and maybe either option is viable. Time will tell.
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