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As Paul B use to say - healthy fish spawn
Sincerely Lasse
Lasses Dream Build
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Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
NoahLikesFish
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he still says itAs Paul B use to say - healthy fish spawn
Sincerely Lasse
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IMO - one of the best features of my aquarium is that I have managed to mix different corals that I think do well in my aquarium and that I like. Many say - GSP - is a real plague while many of them are real beauties if you like the slightly more "wild" look and are not fond of the middle-class suburb's well-groomed, divided and perfect gardens.
Another part is the light - I do not like at all to try to bring out cool color effects from fluorescence and completely exclude the reflective colors, at the same time it is important to have a large amount of blue light in its spectra and not completely dazzle the faint fluorescence that many corals have. I want to see both the reflective colors and the fluorescent ones. With the modern T5 fluorescent lamps - that are very much based on individual color peaks that together give a white look (three phosphorous technique) - its easy to get that but with LED technique - its seems nearly impossible at least with the fear to use green and red LED sources that exist among many saltwater aquarists. The three-phosphorous T5 bulbs is mostly built on three peaks in wavelength - blue, green and reed - yes - the same technique as in RGB Led. as i know it - it is only one manufacturer that incorporate RGB diodes in its fixtures and give you possibilities to manage them individually - these are the different GHL Mitras Bar 2. It can be difficult to understand why - as an example - the heavy blue deep actinic variant - still will be seen as rather "white light" even if it only use 8000 K white diodes. Look at this chart - it shows the right spectrum of a deep artinic bar running in 100%. The estimated K is 18 000 - do you actually experience it as 18 000 K? No you do not because if you look at the sensitive curve for the human eye you will only see the spectra inside the curve (yellow line) and it is more around 7000 K than 18 000. But will it looks like an intensive light - not so much because - most of the radiation is outside the sensitivity of the human eye. But this also means that the very weak light sources that your fluorescent corals are have a chance to break through
If we compare with a Daylight bar - all channels at 100 %. Most of the radiation is inside the curve for the human eyes sensitivity. This bar will be seen as very bright - but no chances for week fluorescence to break through
Before - I have run with 1 bar oceanic blue, 1 actinic and 2 deep actinic - this have been the spectra I get
For the moment I have 3 deep actinic and 1 actinic - this spectra 100%
Probably i will change to 4 deep actinic bars
These changes I do is because i want to improve the colours my eye will see. My reef is mature - is more a problem of overgrowing than not growing. I´m still convinced that white diodes have importance for growth but bad growth is not a problem at the moment
Why this rant about light now? Yesterday - i visit a nearby LFS and spot some discosoma mushrooms I had not seen before. They was in a tank with only blue - the interesting thing - according to the seller - was the very beautiful flourishing edge of the mushrooms. Yes it was nice - but the rest of the coral was dark and dull. And $50 for this small stone with around 8 mushrooms. However - i ask him to move the coral to an aquarium with not as heavy blue as it was in the present aquarium. In the new aquarium - it looks OK - and with a little bargaining it went home to me
In my light - this beauty show up
It was a little bit more than a flourishing edge
Some more pictures
Sincerely Lasse
Another part is the light - I do not like at all to try to bring out cool color effects from fluorescence and completely exclude the reflective colors, at the same time it is important to have a large amount of blue light in its spectra and not completely dazzle the faint fluorescence that many corals have. I want to see both the reflective colors and the fluorescent ones. With the modern T5 fluorescent lamps - that are very much based on individual color peaks that together give a white look (three phosphorous technique) - its easy to get that but with LED technique - its seems nearly impossible at least with the fear to use green and red LED sources that exist among many saltwater aquarists. The three-phosphorous T5 bulbs is mostly built on three peaks in wavelength - blue, green and reed - yes - the same technique as in RGB Led. as i know it - it is only one manufacturer that incorporate RGB diodes in its fixtures and give you possibilities to manage them individually - these are the different GHL Mitras Bar 2. It can be difficult to understand why - as an example - the heavy blue deep actinic variant - still will be seen as rather "white light" even if it only use 8000 K white diodes. Look at this chart - it shows the right spectrum of a deep artinic bar running in 100%. The estimated K is 18 000 - do you actually experience it as 18 000 K? No you do not because if you look at the sensitive curve for the human eye you will only see the spectra inside the curve (yellow line) and it is more around 7000 K than 18 000. But will it looks like an intensive light - not so much because - most of the radiation is outside the sensitivity of the human eye. But this also means that the very weak light sources that your fluorescent corals are have a chance to break through
If we compare with a Daylight bar - all channels at 100 %. Most of the radiation is inside the curve for the human eyes sensitivity. This bar will be seen as very bright - but no chances for week fluorescence to break through
Before - I have run with 1 bar oceanic blue, 1 actinic and 2 deep actinic - this have been the spectra I get
For the moment I have 3 deep actinic and 1 actinic - this spectra 100%
Probably i will change to 4 deep actinic bars
These changes I do is because i want to improve the colours my eye will see. My reef is mature - is more a problem of overgrowing than not growing. I´m still convinced that white diodes have importance for growth but bad growth is not a problem at the moment
Why this rant about light now? Yesterday - i visit a nearby LFS and spot some discosoma mushrooms I had not seen before. They was in a tank with only blue - the interesting thing - according to the seller - was the very beautiful flourishing edge of the mushrooms. Yes it was nice - but the rest of the coral was dark and dull. And $50 for this small stone with around 8 mushrooms. However - i ask him to move the coral to an aquarium with not as heavy blue as it was in the present aquarium. In the new aquarium - it looks OK - and with a little bargaining it went home to me
In my light - this beauty show up
It was a little bit more than a flourishing edge
Some more pictures
Sincerely Lasse
Last edited:
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Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
NoahLikesFish
2500 Club Member
could you do that kind of lighting with an ai prime? im thinking about getting the ai prime fw (if it can mirror the spectrum of your lighting) or the 16hd in hopes i could do that.
OP
OP
No - not exactly but the prime have a red, a green and a blue around 470 nm - so you can simulate a RGB and get a light that looks like white. But you need to dial down the "white" diodes
Sincerely Lasse
Daniel@R2R
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My Tank Thread
I love those mushrooms!!IMO - one of the best features of my aquarium is that I have managed to mix different corals that I think do well in my aquarium and that I like. Many say - GSP - is a real plague while many of them are real beauties if you like the slightly more "wild" look and are not fond of the middle-class suburb's well-groomed, divided and perfect gardens.
Another part is the light - I do not like at all to try to bring out cool color effects from fluorescence and completely exclude the reflective colors, at the same time it is important to have a large amount of blue light in its spectra and not completely dazzle the faint fluorescence that many corals have. I want to see both the reflective colors and the fluorescent ones. With the modern T5 fluorescent lamps - that are very much based on individual color peaks that together give a white look (three phosphorous technique) - its easy to get that but with LED technique - its seems nearly impossible at least with the fear to use green and red LED sources that exist among many saltwater aquarists. The three-phosphorous T5 bulbs is mostly built on three peaks in wavelength - blue, green and reed - yes - the same technique as in RGB Led. as i know it - it is only one manufacturer that incorporate RGB diodes in its fixtures and give you possibilities to manage them individually - these are the different GHL Mitras Bar 2. It can be difficult to understand why - as an example - the heavy blue deep actinic variant - still will be seen as rather "white light" even if it only use 8000 K white diodes. Look at this chart - it shows the right spectrum of a deep artinic bar running in 100%. The estimated K is 18 000 - do you actually experience it as 18 000 K? No you do not because if you look at the sensitive curve for the human eye you will only see the spectra inside the curve (yellow line) and it is more around 7000 K than 18 000. But will it looks like an intensive light - not so much because - most of the radiation is outside the sensitivity of the human eye. But this also means that the very weak light sources that your fluorescent corals are have a chance to break through
If we compare with a Daylight bar - all channels at 100 %. Most of the radiation is inside the curve for the human eyes sensitivity. This bar will be seen as very bright - but no chances for week fluorescence to break through
Before - I have run with 1 bar oceanic blue, 1 actinic and 2 deep actinic - this have been the spectra I get
For the moment I have 3 deep actinic and 1 actinic - this spectra 100%
Probably i will change to 4 deep actinic bars
These changes I do is because i want to improve the colours my eye will see. My reef is mature - is more a problem of overgrowing than not growing. I´m still convinced that white diodes have importance for growth but bad growth is not a problem at the moment
Why this rant about light now? Yesterday - i visit a nearby LFS and spot some discosoma mushrooms I had not seen before. They was in a tank with only blue - the interesting thing - according to the seller - was the very beautiful flourishing edge of the mushrooms. Yes it was nice - but the rest of the coral was dark and dull. And $50 for this small stone with around 1 mushrooms. However - i ask him to move the coral to an aquarium with not as heavy blue as it was in the present aquarium. In the new aquarium - it looks OK - and with a little bargaining it went home to me
In my light - this show up
It was a little bit more than a flourishing edge
Some more pictures
Sincerely Lasse
OP
OP
Alright Lasse, I decided to go the same route. I am in the planning process of my electrical system. I figured out what kind of DIN Power supplies I need (same as yours), but now that I look at your previous pictures, I see 2 kind of power suppliers that are not DIN. What are those for? and is there a reason you didn't use DIN ones for this?
OP
OP
They are for my lights. The first is the PSU for my Mitras LED bar 2 and the two in the second picture is drivers for my refugium LED and for an Far Red LED Fixture I had before. The Mitras PSU is their own and the two LED drivers - I had on hand after other projects
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
OP
OP
This is not an easy question
There is two types of PSU - constant voltage and constant amperage (current). Power LED chips need constant amperage (current) - most other devices constant voltage (including low power LEDs) - as 12 V DC, 24 V DC and the amperage will vary with load. A LED chip need constant amperage if it should not be burn - it means 350 mA, 700 mA, 1050 mA and so on. Voltage will vary. Now - this conversion - to constant amperage can take place in the driver or in the fixture. In my case - the conversion from constant voltage to constant amperage for the GHL Mitras fixture take place in the fixtures so yes - I could change that out to a normal DIN PSU with 24 V and 0-12.5 A. But in this case with equipment above $1000 and a special way of managing the fixtures with an external controller - i prefered to use their own PSU. And - my cabinett was already done when I bought these fixtures
I do not know which type of driver your fixture need - you have to look at the PSU and judge if it a constant Voltage or constant Amperage driver. If it a constant Voltage driver - you can easily replace that with a DIN version - even with one PSU for more than one fixture. Only be sure that the max amperage it can deliver is the sum of the amperage your fixtures need and that you connect in a parallel mode.
If it is a constant amperage driver - things get more complicated - you need exactly that amperage and the max voltage must be the sum of what the fixtures need. And you need to connect in a daisy chain mode. There is constant amperage (currenT) driver with DIN montage too
In the case with my refugium fixture and the far red fixture - it is DIY projects with no internal electronic - only x pcs of LED chips in a daisy chain. The electronics need to be in the driver and it needs to be a constant amperage (current) driver.
Hope things get more clear now
Sincerely Lasse
There is two types of PSU - constant voltage and constant amperage (current). Power LED chips need constant amperage (current) - most other devices constant voltage (including low power LEDs) - as 12 V DC, 24 V DC and the amperage will vary with load. A LED chip need constant amperage if it should not be burn - it means 350 mA, 700 mA, 1050 mA and so on. Voltage will vary. Now - this conversion - to constant amperage can take place in the driver or in the fixture. In my case - the conversion from constant voltage to constant amperage for the GHL Mitras fixture take place in the fixtures so yes - I could change that out to a normal DIN PSU with 24 V and 0-12.5 A. But in this case with equipment above $1000 and a special way of managing the fixtures with an external controller - i prefered to use their own PSU. And - my cabinett was already done when I bought these fixtures
I do not know which type of driver your fixture need - you have to look at the PSU and judge if it a constant Voltage or constant Amperage driver. If it a constant Voltage driver - you can easily replace that with a DIN version - even with one PSU for more than one fixture. Only be sure that the max amperage it can deliver is the sum of the amperage your fixtures need and that you connect in a parallel mode.
If it is a constant amperage driver - things get more complicated - you need exactly that amperage and the max voltage must be the sum of what the fixtures need. And you need to connect in a daisy chain mode. There is constant amperage (currenT) driver with DIN montage too
In the case with my refugium fixture and the far red fixture - it is DIY projects with no internal electronic - only x pcs of LED chips in a daisy chain. The electronics need to be in the driver and it needs to be a constant amperage (current) driver.
Hope things get more clear now
Sincerely Lasse
It makes sense! Thank you Lasse!This is not an easy question
There is two types of PSU - constant voltage and constant amperage (current). Power LED chips need constant amperage (current) - most other devices constant voltage (including low power LEDs) - as 12 V DC, 24 V DC and the amperage will vary with load. A LED chip need constant amperage if it should not be burn - it means 350 mA, 700 mA, 1050 mA and so on. Voltage will vary. Now - this conversion - to constant amperage can take place in the driver or in the fixture. In my case - the conversion from constant voltage to constant amperage for the GHL Mitras fixture take place in the fixtures so yes - I could change that out to a normal DIN PSU with 24 V and 0-12.5 A. But in this case with equipment above $1000 and a special way of managing the fixtures with an external controller - i prefered to use their own PSU. And - my cabinett was already done when I bought these fixtures
I do not know which type of driver your fixture need - you have to look at the PSU and judge if it a constant Voltage or constant Amperage driver. If it a constant Voltage driver - you can easily replace that with a DIN version - even with one PSU for more than one fixture. Only be sure that the max amperage it can deliver is the sum of the amperage your fixtures need and that you connect in a parallel mode.
If it is a constant amperage driver - things get more complicated - you need exactly that amperage and the max voltage must be the sum of what the fixtures need. And you need to connect in a daisy chain mode. There is constant amperage (currenT) driver with DIN montage too
In the case with my refugium fixture and the far red fixture - it is DIY projects with no internal electronic - only x pcs of LED chips in a daisy chain. The electronics need to be in the driver and it needs to be a constant amperage (current) driver.
Hope things get more clear now
Sincerely Lasse
fishguy242
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Hi Lasse, was just wondering if you are going to do the elk migration thread again this year ?
Have a great day/night ?
Thanks
Have a great day/night ?
Thanks
OP
OP
I´ll try to - it will start around 22/4 this spring at this address. You can see highlights from 20 and 21 too
Höjdpunkter = highlights
www.svtplay.se
Sincerely Lasse
Höjdpunkter = highlights
Den stora älgvandringen
I flera tusen år har älgarna vandrat samma leder för att komma till sommarens rika betesmarker. For several thousand years the moose have walked the same path to get to the rich pastures of summer. Follow the walk live from Kullberg in the north of Sweden. Den stora älgvandringen 2024...
Sincerely Lasse
fishguy242
Cronies..... INSERT BUILD THREAD BADGE HERE !!
Partner Member 2024
Reef Tank 365
Hospitality Award
Midwest Reefer
Fish Medic
R2R Secret Santa 2023
Thank you,I´ll try to - it will start around 22/4 this spring at this address. You can see highlights from 20 and 21 too
Höjdpunkter = highlights
Den stora älgvandringen
I flera tusen år har älgarna vandrat samma leder för att komma till sommarens rika betesmarker. For several thousand years the moose have walked the same path to get to the rich pastures of summer. Follow the walk live from Kullberg in the north of Sweden. Den stora älgvandringen 2024...
Sincerely Lasse
i did follow 20 & 21...
will be looking forward to it this year...
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