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Lasse

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I have some of that kind too - 4 - but they are between 30 to 42 years old now. However they have give me (and my wife) 6 new number ones :D

sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

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It amazes me how he doesn’t become clam lunch... but glad he doesn’t
The one before this was probably hurt by a clam and died and this one lost a smaller part of its tail fin.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Today have been a busy day. I have a phosphate filter with Al and Fe absorption media. I run it at slowest possible speed - its a 650 l/h Jebao DC650 nano pump. It is the old blue type with the old controller. The problem with this is that it will be a bacteria buildup in the media and it stops working after a while- I have solved this trough stop the pump for one minute - raise the flow to 100 % and after a minute going back to the low flow. When I do this - i get two benefits - clean up the bacteria film clogging the filter and bacteria out to the hungry mouths of my aquarium. However - I´m not a guy who loves routines (if I need to do them myself :D )and sometimes I forget this and get a clogged anaerobic reactor that will release PO4 out to the aquarium when started again.

With my planned my new cabinet - automation was the goal. However - these old pumps have no inbuilt way to be regulated with an external 1-10 V signal. Fact is that they use a 0-5 V signal. However - I have done DIY fixes with this pumps before and with the Profilux - I can change the normal 1-10 V to 0-5 V inside the software. You need to locate - ground, +24 V and the 0-5 V signal cord of the pump. You have also to locate the ground, 1- 10V signal 1 and 0-10 V signal 2 of the Profilux L-port wiring. If you do that - you can create an own regulation central for two pumps. I have done this and now it is running at an Ill run that run the pump in 40 % at 22:00, 0 % between 22:01 -22:03, 100 % between 22:04 and 22:05 and 30 % at 22:06. After this it slowly rise to 40 % 22:00 the next day.

I slowly change my old coral box pumps (DCA1200, DCA2000 and jetcod 4000) to pumps with the new controller, The new controller can be run by an external 1-10 V signal and there is equipment for using together with APEX. This equipment can be used together with a GHL break out box in order to work with Profilux. I already run the skimmer with the new controller and will mount my new return this evening. It is similar to this one. I want the return to run at 1-10 V because I want to lower the speed rather much when I feed. this because I feed with rather much cyclops and I do not want it to be flushed out when I feed. Yes - I can do it manually - I know - but it is rather difficult to remember switching on again:D

Sincerely Lasse
 
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When you do a change - you can with experiences calculate at least 95 % what will follow the next day´s. But you always have the five percent whatever factor. If your build is a good build you have already in the construction taking height for this dam 5 %. My overrun chamber have 3 holes for pipes in the bottom. When I placed this three holes - I make sure that they was just over the sump. This because - if I ever get a leak in these bulkheads - the water should be in the sump - not at the floor. The return pipe goes above the sump too - leaks down in the sump. We wake up this morning with an alarm from the skimmer cup - it was filled up. I empty the skimmer and restart it. It was running with much foam - I investigate my DT for spawns, dead animals or whatever. Negative. In the afternoon - the cup was half filled again - could not understand why - it was clear water.

Now something with ears an hearings. I have no good hearing at all, working in noisy environment all my life but it seems that I´m very sensitive for very small changes in tone, frequencies or differences from the normal sound mat. This evening - I was sitting in front of the TV with a volume that my wife says will get the dead to awake. But in all of this noise - there was something not familiar - Went to the sump - but not. However the noise was there - it sounds like weak sound of dripping water. I look in the sump apartment again - water in the skimmer cup again - but the skim was not special high in the skimmer? Water on the cover of the skimmer cup! The return pipe is located over the skimmer - there was water coming along the pipe and hit the cover of the skimmer - the weak drip sound was located. Following the pipe up to the bulkhead - yes water was coming from the glass bottom or the bulk head. I know that I had tighten it 3.5 year ago and get afraid that I had crack the bottom when I changed the pump yesterday. Get my polygrip - yes - I could tighten it a bit more.

Now a couple of hours later - no dripping yet :):):)

But - How could I hear this dripping - 6 meters away, in a closed sump apartment when I watching TV close to me ???

Sincerely Lasse
 
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I have read 0.1 mg/l in my Phosphorus measurements but all the time thought that everything that happens indicate low values. I read 0.11 mg/l with my Hanna low phosphate meter and get back - 0.018 mg/l from Triton. I´m going to double check my meter for sure next week. The measurements look fine - attached - my results this time. The Triton export to PDF does not work for the moment - I have done screen capture instead

191121 triton.PNG


191121 triton 001.PNG


191121 triton 002.PNG


191121 triton 003.PNG

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Mortie31

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I have read 0.1 mg/l in my Phosphorus measurements but all the time thought that everything that happens indicate low values. I read 0.11 mg/l with my Hanna low phosphate meter and get back - 0.018 mg/l from Triton. I´m going to double check my meter for sure next week. The measurements look fine - attached arem my results this time. The Triton export to PDF does not work for the moment - I have done screen capture instead

191121 triton.PNG


191121 triton 001.PNG


191121 triton 002.PNG


191121 triton 003.PNG

Sincerely Lasse
There have been several reports on a thread in r2r where people were getting the same diference between hanna checker phosphate and triton results, with Triton always being considerably lower... here’s the thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/accuracy-of-phosphate-icp-analysis.381738/
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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When you do a change - you can with experiences calculate at least 95 % what will follow the next day´s. But you always have the five percent whatever factor. If your build is a good build you have already in the construction taking height for this dam 5 %. My overrun chamber have 3 holes for pipes in the bottom. When I placed this three holes - I make sure that they was just over the sump. This because - if I ever get a leak in these bulkheads - the water should be in the sump - not at the floor. The return pipe goes above the sump too - leaks down in the sump. We wake up this morning with an alarm from the skimmer cup - it was filled up. I empty the skimmer and restart it. It was running with much foam - I investigate my DT for spawns, dead animals or whatever. Negative. In the afternoon - the cup was half filled again - could not understand why - it was clear water.

Now something with ears an hearings. I have no good hearing at all, working in noisy environment all my life but it seems that I´m very sensitive for very small changes in tone, frequencies or differences from the normal sound mat. This evening - I was sitting in front of the TV with a volume that my wife says will get the dead to awake. But in all of this noise - there was something not familiar - Went to the sump - but not. However the noise was there - it sounds like weak sound of dripping water. I look in the sump apartment again - water in the skimmer cup again - but the skim was not special high in the skimmer? Water on the cover of the skimmer cup! The return pipe is located over the skimmer - there was water coming along the pipe and hit the cover of the skimmer - the weak drip sound was located. Following the pipe up to the bulkhead - yes water was coming from the glass bottom or the bulk head. I know that I had tighten it 3.5 year ago and get afraid that I had crack the bottom when I changed the pump yesterday. Get my polygrip - yes - I could tighten it a bit more.

Now a couple of hours later - no dripping yet :):):)

But - How could I hear this dripping - 6 meters away, in a closed sump apartment when I watching TV close to me ???

Sincerely Lasse
Because of skimmer cup, your senses a tune to the slightest thing off on your DT. Example, you remember when dating, you were so attentive to your bride to be. You would open the door for her, you would throw your jacket down if there was a water puddle on front of her. You remember those days right? Then many years later the honeymoon over you guys fight like a married old couple and you feel like you want to trade her in for a new truck. That's how it happens here in America sometimes. So moral of the story is, you're still in love with your display tank and no one can take that away from you......hahaha
 
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Lasse

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I have run new GFO media - combined Iron and aluminum media, change every third week. see no change with the Hanna - have not even seen a change between morning and night. My corals have looks like P deficiency now and when. In this case - I trust the Triton test.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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I have run new GFO media - combined Iron and aluminum media, change every third week. see no change with the Hanna - have not even seen a change between morning and night. My corals have looks like P deficiency now and when. In this case - I trust the Triton test.

Sincerely Lasse
Jomama juice does wonders, I hear
 
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Jomama juice does wonders, I hear

Sorry to say - Have nor run that since early summer. One of the effects - lesser filtrating animals like sponges. But I did introduce a snail that probably eats sponges too. Its from the family Scutus. And I introduce 10.......

If I start with Jomama juice again - probably but I have all to be stable again.

I´m not sure that the Hanna always differ a lot from Triton. @Sallstrom normally nail the value to be the same as the Triton result. But he use the Low phosphate checker - Hi-713.

I use the ultra low phosphate checker Hi-774 which is based on the Ultra low phosphorous meter Hi-736. I used the Hi-736 meter for a long time - but always get unstable and high readings - switch to the Hi-713 and get more stable readings and mostly in the same range as Triton. When my Hi-713 stop working I decide to try the Hi-774. This give me a stable reading but - as it seems - too high readings. I will test this reader against others next week. Not against standards but against real water with all of the conflicting ions.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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I´m not sure that the Hanna always differ a lot from Triton. @Sallstrom normally nail the value to be the same as the Triton result. But he use the Low phosphate checker - Hi-713.
You will get there @Lasse :p:p
 

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Sorry to say - Have nor run that since early summer. One of the effects - lesser filtrating animals like sponges. But I did introduce a snail that probably eats sponges too. Its from the family Scutus. And I introduce 10.......

If I start with Jomama juice again - probably but I have all to be stable again.

I´m not sure that the Hanna always differ a lot from Triton. @Sallstrom normally nail the value to be the same as the Triton result. But he use the Low phosphate checker - Hi-713.

I use the ultra low phosphate checker Hi-774 which is based on the Ultra low phosphorous meter Hi-736. I used the Hi-736 meter for a long time - but always get unstable and high readings - switch to the Hi-713 and get more stable readings and mostly in the same range as Triton. When my Hi-713 stop working I decide to try the Hi-774. This give me a stable reading but - as it seems - too high readings. I will test this reader against others next week. Not against standards but against real water with all of the conflicting ions.

Sincerely Lasse
One thing I don’t understand is; Hanna make good quality equipment with well documented tolerances, yet lots of people report high readings versus Triton, do you think it’s tester error? Hanna aren’t being honest with the tolerances or is it Triton Doing likewise. I’m at a loss now as I think both are reputable companies with good products but they both cannot be right or can they...
 
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One thing I don’t understand is; Hanna make good quality equipment with well documented tolerances, yet lots of people report high readings versus Triton, do you think it’s tester error? Hanna aren’t being honest with the tolerances or is it Triton Doing likewise. I’m at a loss now as I think both are reputable companies with good products but they both cannot be right or can they...
Yes they can but the Triton test will be closest to the true concentration IMO. This is two different way of analyze the content with different methods.

The Hanna use a colorimetric method based named Ascorbic acid method. Together with molybdate it will form a bluish tint whose intensity is proportional to the concentration of the orthophosphate ion. As all colorimetric methods there is some compounds/ions that can interfere with the phosphate in the sample and give a false reading. In this case Silicia and silicate is known substances that will give a to high readings. the reading is also affected bu the turbidity of the sample.

In my case - high silica will probably interfere .

The ICP method have lesser interference´s but organic particles will give a higher reading - all P is not PO4 - however it must be calibrated often.

The interference of other compounds will also be more likely at very low levels of PO4 and 0.1 ppm PO4 is low from a analysts point of view. None of the analyzes gives you the true concentration - they give you a picture of it. In a complex water such as salt water, the disturbance effect of other substances can be considerable - therefore - I trust the ICP test more.

But thank you for being stubborn in this case - you force me to go back to the literature and check which interference's that is most important in this case :D

I found one that probably can explain the differences. At least in my case - my Si concentration is over 0.250 ppm and will probably interfere with the Hanna checker

Sincerely Lasse
 

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Yes they can but the Triton test will be closest to the true concentration IMO. This is two different way of analyze the content with different methods.

The Hanna use a colorimetric method based named Ascorbic acid method. Together with molybdate it will form a bluish tint whose intensity is proportional to the concentration of the orthophosphate ion. As all colorimetric methods there is some compounds/ions that can interfere with the phosphate in the sample and give a false reading. In this case Silicia and silicate is known substances that will give a to high readings. the reading is also affected bu the turbidity of the sample.

In my case - high silica will probably interfere .

The ICP method have lesser interference´s but organic particles will give a higher reading - all P is not PO4 - however it must be calibrated often.

The interference of other compounds will also be more likely at very low levels of PO4 and 0.1 ppm PO4 is low from a analysts point of view. None of the analyzes gives you the true concentration - they give you a picture of it. In a complex water such as salt water, the disturbance effect of other substances can be considerable - therefore - I trust the ICP test more.

But thank you for being stubborn in this case - you force me to go back to the literature and check which interference's that is most important in this case :D

I found one that probably can explain the differences. At least in my case - my Si concentration is over 0.250 ppm and will probably interfere with the Hanna checker

Sincerely Lasse
Excellent, Thankyou for the explanation, it now makes sense... (maybe you should post this on the thread discussing this)
 

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Yes they can but the Triton test will be closest to the true concentration IMO. This is two different way of analyze the content with different methods.

The Hanna use a colorimetric method based named Ascorbic acid method. Together with molybdate it will form a bluish tint whose intensity is proportional to the concentration of the orthophosphate ion. As all colorimetric methods there is some compounds/ions that can interfere with the phosphate in the sample and give a false reading. In this case Silicia and silicate is known substances that will give a to high readings. the reading is also affected bu the turbidity of the sample.

In my case - high silica will probably interfere .

The ICP method have lesser interference´s but organic particles will give a higher reading - all P is not PO4 - however it must be calibrated often.

The interference of other compounds will also be more likely at very low levels of PO4 and 0.1 ppm PO4 is low from a analysts point of view. None of the analyzes gives you the true concentration - they give you a picture of it. In a complex water such as salt water, the disturbance effect of other substances can be considerable - therefore - I trust the ICP test more.

But thank you for being stubborn in this case - you force me to go back to the literature and check which interference's that is most important in this case :D

I found one that probably can explain the differences. At least in my case - my Si concentration is over 0.250 ppm and will probably interfere with the Hanna checker

Sincerely Lasse
I'm surprised that you don't have a large amount of diatoms with your Si that high. Any idea why you don't?
 
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Lasse

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I have had Si levels of above 20 ppm !!! No diatoms!!!!

I´m along those that not believe that diatoms just comes at high levels of silicate or Si. They are always present but they are very good to utilize low phosphorous concentrations. in the start - with low P concentrations they can compete with other algae and dominate. Of cause - they can´t grow in zero Si but even if your RO/DI water is zero - it does not mean that your saltwater is. Normal Si level in sea water - between 100 - 300 ppb (0.1-0.3 ppm)

Sincerely Lasse
 
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