Leopard wrasse salinity question

CoralClasher

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I just picked up two more leopards today from petco right off the delivery truck so no chance of petco opening the bags. Got them home and the salinity was 1.018 so I matched and released them in QT after twenty minutes for temp. Question is how fast should I bring them up to 1.026?
 

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Petco keeps their tanks at 1.022-1.024, and fish generally survive that jump in salinity. However I bring my salinity up by 0.01 per day just to play it a little safe. But jumping by 0.03 per day wouldn't likely impact the fish
 
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Petco keeps their tanks at 1.022-1.024, and fish generally survive that jump in salinity. However I bring my salinity up by 0.01 per day just to play it a little safe. But jumping by 0.03 per day wouldn't likely impact the fish
The last wrasse I got from different LFS didn't make it much past 24 hours I matched that water at 1.022 and left it there over night. So this time I want to bring up the salinity to at least 1.024 tonight.
 
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Why hurry? Leopard wrasses can be delicate. I would suggest taking your time, and topping off with saltwater until salinity raises to where it matches the display.
Well now I'm confused, when I brought the dead wrasse and sample water back to LFS all he said was my salinity was to low. Maybe I just got a dying fish and didn't matter what I did?
 

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The salinity isn't what killed the wrasse. They usually have parasites and even potential for flukes, and will perish fairly quickly when trying to acclimating them. Especially if they aren't acclimated to the current schedule in the U.S.. This makes things even more difficult because of their sleep/eating schedule is way off.
I would worry less about Salinity and more about parasites, and starting medication with Focus and Metro once they start eating.
 
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The salinity isn't what killed the wrasse. They usually have parasites and even potential for flukes, and will perish fairly quickly when trying to acclimating them. Especially if they aren't acclimated to the current schedule in the U.S.. This makes things even more difficult because of their sleep/eating schedule is way off.
I would worry less about Salinity and more about parasites, and starting medication with Focus and Metro once they start eating.
I do know about the sleeping difference and I do try to keep them awake during the day. I have food soaked with GC but the one that died would not eat. My fingers are crossed that my new fishes will eat.
 

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determine how long you want to keep the leopard wrasse in quarantine, divide the by what salinity it is by what you want. If you are at 1.022 and want 1.026 maybe increase by .01 a week for a 4 week span just to be on the safe side these are delicate little fishies
 

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Well now I'm confused, when I brought the dead wrasse and sample water back to LFS all he said was my salinity was to low. Maybe I just got a dying fish and didn't matter what I did?

Specific gravity of 1.022 did not kill the wrasse. LFS is wrong in this case.
 
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CoralClasher

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determine how long you want to keep the leopard wrasse in quarantine, divide the by what salinity it is by what you want. If you are at 1.022 and want 1.026 maybe increase by .01 a week for a 4 week span just to be on the safe side these are delicate little fishies
I only plan to have them in QT till they are eating good and looking healthy no meds or copper unless I see something. Just GC soaked food and Dr. Tims first defense.
 
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CoralClasher

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One is looking good and eating. I’m very concerned about the other one tho. Is there anything I should try to keep her alive? Water tested good and salinity now up to 1.024
CDA77F6A-296F-40DB-8D02-9F321A8B4C22.jpeg
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image.jpg
 
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CoralClasher

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Her stomach is bigger than normal she will swim when I pick her up and hold her in the air bubbles but the back to the bottom and upside down
 

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When I QT wrasses, especially
Halichoeres or Macropharyngodon I always let them get settled and eating first. Keep a bowl of sand for them to sleep in is a must.

If the SG they came from is low, say around 1.018ish, I match their SG in the QT when setting it up. 20 min temp acclimation and then strait in they go. I don't add any top off fresh water and let evaporation raise the SG gradually during the whole time they are in QT/observation.

with all my wrasses I QT, I just observe them for a couple days and make sure they eat. Then I treat them with API general cure for ten days. Wrasses typically carry internal parasites and general cure does well with them. Has metro and prazi in it.

Sounds like your on the right path.

Blotted stomach could be internal parasites or swim bladder issue.

Macropharyngodon's are difficult to acclimate to tank life. Some make it, some don't.
 
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The water I used was 5 gallons of DT and 5 new salinity matched the bag. Then I’ve done two twenty percent WC with new water. Should I drop the salinity now?
5FFD72DB-9C1C-45B9-B5C9-70E786F3DC2C.jpeg
 

Flippers4pups

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The water I used was 5 gallons of DT and 5 new salinity matched the bag. Then I’ve done two twenty percent WC with new water. Should I drop the salinity now?
5FFD72DB-9C1C-45B9-B5C9-70E786F3DC2C.jpeg

I wouldn't. Let them settle for a while.
 

Flippers4pups

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This is my tenth wrasse and I only have four that made it to DT I can tell if I don’t try something this one will not make it.

Don't think changing SG will help. Sorry.
 

Flippers4pups

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Yeah I’m just feeling bad for this fish and want to try my best.

I truly understand and appreciate your feelings. They are labeled "expert" fish. I truly believe that it has nothing to do with husbandry, more so that they just don't ship well and have a tough time acclimating to captivity. Once they get past this and eat well, I've always been able to keep one easily for years and years and years.
 
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