Leveling 120 with shims?

therealman1

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After nearly a year of attempting to level out my floor under my tank with adjustable column, a coworker recommended using shims to level out the tank. After I added the shims and got the tank level it may seem a bit precarious. The tank is sound with no rocking. I am wondering if anyone has shimmed their tank to make it level and how well it works.

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Beau_B

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That's a lot of shims!

I would suggest measuring the short end (least shims) and getting something (a board) that thickness to run the width of the tank and shim up from there to eliminate the towers of shims.

Focus on the corners of the stand, that's where shifting could create serious problems. Depending on how the stand is built you may want to support along the length of the tank (if there are vertical supports, do so under each front and back).

My tank has shims but not to that extent. I don't have experience with aquariums that out of level, but I do have some tricks for cabinets in general...

If you want to get fancy, you could scribe custom shims and have them ripped down.

One last trick: cut additional boards and fasten them around the perimeter of the stand, an apron, flush with the floor giving continuous support.
 

RocketEngineer

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What does the other end look like?

Also, look into using cedar shingles instead of those narrow shims. I used cedar to level my last two tanks sand they were fine for years.
 

ca1ore

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Yeah, that is a lot of shims. My floor is all over the place as a well and I needed almost an inch off the floor for one back corner. Used a strip of 3/4” ply so that I only had to build a further 1/4” with shims. I personally prefer the composite shims as they are water proof. Also, technically, you’re supposed to put shims in from each side so that they offset each other and the tank isn’t supported only at the edge. Appreciate that’s tricky with a solid bottom stand.
 

Anchor

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I would measure say 10 places from floor to bottom of stand and then hand cut a 2 x 4 to follow the floor. Shims are bad in the long run. Tend to rot and then tip your filled tank. Cedar is too soft. Alternative would be an expensive Teak board. Plastic of some type might be a good choice too.
In the end you want to fill the space under that end entirely.
 

Anchor

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Just another thought using a box or apron like thing as suggested by @Beau_B . Make a box that surrounds the base of your stand, line it with plastic 3+mil plastic and put sand in it. put a half in plywood sheet over the top of the sand and level that.. Then set your tank inside of that box. It's a thought and would be far more stable than some of the alternatives. The sand follows the shape of the floor. Only other thing I can think of is using concrete instead of the sand inside the plastice lined box. Might be heavy when it comes time to move the tank but far more stable over time.
 

homer1475

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Also going to guess, but thats probably a composite stand(chip board). With that amount of shims, it will probably warp in the middle where there is no support, and end up cracking the tank.
 
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therealman1

therealman1

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I think the plan will be to replace the shims with boards for support. The front right corner of the tank ins on the floor, while the back left corner needs to be nearly 2 inches off the ground to be level. I plan to run boards along the back, along the left side, as well as down the middle for a more solid support.

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Mark3

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seriously, ....that looks like a disaster waiting to happen

just my $0.02 worth of wisdom, (take it for what it's worth)
 

Lowell Lemon

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The first thing you need to do is use a longer level close to the length of the tank. Torpedo levels are way to short to give a good indication of level. The front to back should be done with the longer level as well. Start over and see where you end up. If your floor is that out of level you might have foundation problems!
I would not fill that tank in the current situation!
 
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therealman1

therealman1

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If your floor is that out of level you might have foundation problems!
The house was built in 1900 sadly. When I bought the house a few years ago the inspector said that the foundation was in fantastic shape, just the house was bowing down in the middle due to age. I had put in adjustable jacks throughout the basement as well as 5 under the 120 in the corners and back middle. I have been adjusting the jacks slowly for the past year. The floors have improved, but have since plateaued in their leveling. This is the only logical place to put the tank in the house, lest it be against a window or baseboard.
 

Tuffyyyyy

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The house was built in 1900 sadly. When I bought the house a few years ago the inspector said that the foundation was in fantastic shape, just the house was bowing down in the middle due to age. I had put in adjustable jacks throughout the basement as well as 5 under the 120 in the corners and back middle. I have been adjusting the jacks slowly for the past year. The floors have improved, but have since plateaued in their leveling. This is the only logical place to put the tank in the house, lest it be against a window or baseboard.
But the tank is appropriately supported? I think once you swap from shims to cedar, and you're comfortable with the strength of the floor, you're good to go.
 

Lowell Lemon

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My mother in laws house had same problem. We had a contractor take up the floor and level the floor joists then new sub floor, then new flooring. You level the floor joists by placing level lumber along side each joist and screwing them together taking the dip out of the floor.
Good luck with your choices.
 

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