Looking to start up a new reef
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btmedic04
Well-Known Member
Equipment choices all come down to budget and what you intend to do with your tank. Are you planning on implementing a method such as zeovit or triton? How important is automation to you? These are questions that you have to ask and answer before you can begin selecting appropriate equipment outside of the basics like return pump, heater, powerheads and skimmer.
Unfortunately, the largest tank I've owned is a 40 breeder so I am not well versed in equipment for a 200 gallon mixed reef. Someone here with a larger set up should be able to give you recommendations that would be appropriate. In the meantime, I would read the guides in this section and check out peoples build threads in the large aquarium section of the members aquarium discussion.
Unfortunately, the largest tank I've owned is a 40 breeder so I am not well versed in equipment for a 200 gallon mixed reef. Someone here with a larger set up should be able to give you recommendations that would be appropriate. In the meantime, I would read the guides in this section and check out peoples build threads in the large aquarium section of the members aquarium discussion.
Here is my list that I started off with...
This is not including any rock, sand, salt, livestock, (I have another spreadsheet with that info if interested) and I've purchased additional Apex modules like the Flow Monitoring kit and the DOS and other miscellaneous stuff that I have not added yet, but this is what I started out with. I included the list prices just for reference. They may have changed and they are not necessarily what I paid since a lot of this was on sale when I bought them.
Also, I am not saying you need everything on this list, this is just what I got.
Hope that helps. ;Happy
Edit: Figured I would add, (before someone comments that I was stupid to pay so much for QT tanks) that the two QT tanks are now display tanks. One is a freshwater planted tank and the other is a fish only saltwater tank. I planned on turning them into display tanks when I bought them so I paid for good looking quality tanks instead of just getting 40 gallon breeders for way cheaper. I also have three other QT tanks that I already had that I am currently using for coral and inverts.
This is not including any rock, sand, salt, livestock, (I have another spreadsheet with that info if interested) and I've purchased additional Apex modules like the Flow Monitoring kit and the DOS and other miscellaneous stuff that I have not added yet, but this is what I started out with. I included the list prices just for reference. They may have changed and they are not necessarily what I paid since a lot of this was on sale when I bought them.
Also, I am not saying you need everything on this list, this is just what I got.
Hope that helps. ;Happy
Edit: Figured I would add, (before someone comments that I was stupid to pay so much for QT tanks) that the two QT tanks are now display tanks. One is a freshwater planted tank and the other is a fish only saltwater tank. I planned on turning them into display tanks when I bought them so I paid for good looking quality tanks instead of just getting 40 gallon breeders for way cheaper. I also have three other QT tanks that I already had that I am currently using for coral and inverts.
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stanleo
Valuable Member
Decide what kind of filtration system you want. A sump is the best option because maintenance is so much easier. There are ready to install mass produced sumps for that size but they are pricey. A less expensive option is a DIY sump made from a large aquarium, something bigger than a 55gallon would work for a 200 gallon I think. If you go with a sump than you should try to get a drilled tank that is ready for plumbing. I have a non drilled tank with a sump and it works great but the down side is that the overflow box is loud. You also want a skimmer. There are many options. I have an Octo in sump skimmer that is awesome. You can do canister filters but these are a pain because you have to break them down to clean them and change out the carbon which you need to do about every three weeks or so. With canisters, its also harder to control nutrient export.
Next you want to think about heating. For a tank that size you need 2 heaters that are rated for 150 gallon tanks. These should be attached to an external temperature controller. Mine was 45 bucks on amazon so there are cheaper options than an expensive Apex system.
Next think about flow in the tank. This will depend on what you want to keep. Do you want high flow or low flow? Is not having obvious equipment in the display tank important to you? There are models with a low profile but these are very pricey. Mine are less expensive bulky powerheads and you can clearly see the cords in the tank. I hate them and will be upgrading when I have the funds. When buying these, pay attention to the flow rate in GPH (gallons per hour). By deciding if this is important to you, having a low profile in the tank, you could save yourself some money by just going ahead and paying the higher price now rather than paying the low price now and a year later upgrading and still paying the high price.
After this comes lighting and again that depends on the types of coral you want to keep. Plus there are three main types, T5 lights, LED and medal hylide, or hybrids of two out of the three. If you want a mixed reef or want to keep sps and more demanding corals or clams or anemones, do not skimp on this. I did at first and upgraded soon after when I realized my light was no good for keeping these and ended up spending more money. I should have just gone with the more expensive option in the first place.
Do you want a refugium? This is what @btmedic04 was talking about when he mentioned do you want to go with the triton or Zeovit methods. Refugiums are part of the Triton method. They help keep nutrients like nitrate and phosphate low by growing the macro algae in a separate place so nuisance algae can't take hold in the tank. I have one and highly recommend it. My display tank is algae free and the tank is only 9 months old.
There are also other pieces to consider. ATO (auto top offs) allows you to not worry about checking the level of evaporation every day and fills the tank for you. I don't have one, I just check the level every morning and add what RO water I need. Then there are carbon and GFO reactors, UV sterilizers, and algae scrubbers if you want to go full one tech crazy. I don't because I don't feel the need with my tank but you might.
And there is other smaller stuff like a siphon for water changes, a pump to put new water back in, a barrel trash can or large Tupperware tote to make new water in.
TEST KITS!! Very important and again, don't skimp. API Master Saltwater Test Kit is fine for cycling the tank (get very familiar with this process before starting). But for more precise readings I recommend Red Sea for pH, calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, and Salifert for nitrate and phosphate. And that's not the best out there, its just what I could afford. There are also Henna testers which I hear are amazing but they are in the hundreds of dollars range. Under no circumstances should you do test strips, they are worthless. Also a refractometer. Again, you get what you pay for. Henna is better but pricey. Don't use one of those plastic things with a swing arm inside that floats to tell the salinity. I used one once and it was way off. A refractometer for testing salinity is really the way to go.
But first, before you buy any of this, YouTube "BRS 52 weeks of reefing." They are 52 videos that go over the setup and progression over a year of a 160 gallon reef tank. It helped me out tremendously. I also encourage you to read through some of the members build threads on this forum, especially those that have tanks similar in size to yours. That will help you decide what type of reef you really want in the end.
Hope this helps. Research and patience are the most important tools you will need for a successful reef. and it really doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg, just the arm will do.
Next you want to think about heating. For a tank that size you need 2 heaters that are rated for 150 gallon tanks. These should be attached to an external temperature controller. Mine was 45 bucks on amazon so there are cheaper options than an expensive Apex system.
Next think about flow in the tank. This will depend on what you want to keep. Do you want high flow or low flow? Is not having obvious equipment in the display tank important to you? There are models with a low profile but these are very pricey. Mine are less expensive bulky powerheads and you can clearly see the cords in the tank. I hate them and will be upgrading when I have the funds. When buying these, pay attention to the flow rate in GPH (gallons per hour). By deciding if this is important to you, having a low profile in the tank, you could save yourself some money by just going ahead and paying the higher price now rather than paying the low price now and a year later upgrading and still paying the high price.
After this comes lighting and again that depends on the types of coral you want to keep. Plus there are three main types, T5 lights, LED and medal hylide, or hybrids of two out of the three. If you want a mixed reef or want to keep sps and more demanding corals or clams or anemones, do not skimp on this. I did at first and upgraded soon after when I realized my light was no good for keeping these and ended up spending more money. I should have just gone with the more expensive option in the first place.
Do you want a refugium? This is what @btmedic04 was talking about when he mentioned do you want to go with the triton or Zeovit methods. Refugiums are part of the Triton method. They help keep nutrients like nitrate and phosphate low by growing the macro algae in a separate place so nuisance algae can't take hold in the tank. I have one and highly recommend it. My display tank is algae free and the tank is only 9 months old.
There are also other pieces to consider. ATO (auto top offs) allows you to not worry about checking the level of evaporation every day and fills the tank for you. I don't have one, I just check the level every morning and add what RO water I need. Then there are carbon and GFO reactors, UV sterilizers, and algae scrubbers if you want to go full one tech crazy. I don't because I don't feel the need with my tank but you might.
And there is other smaller stuff like a siphon for water changes, a pump to put new water back in, a barrel trash can or large Tupperware tote to make new water in.
TEST KITS!! Very important and again, don't skimp. API Master Saltwater Test Kit is fine for cycling the tank (get very familiar with this process before starting). But for more precise readings I recommend Red Sea for pH, calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, and Salifert for nitrate and phosphate. And that's not the best out there, its just what I could afford. There are also Henna testers which I hear are amazing but they are in the hundreds of dollars range. Under no circumstances should you do test strips, they are worthless. Also a refractometer. Again, you get what you pay for. Henna is better but pricey. Don't use one of those plastic things with a swing arm inside that floats to tell the salinity. I used one once and it was way off. A refractometer for testing salinity is really the way to go.
But first, before you buy any of this, YouTube "BRS 52 weeks of reefing." They are 52 videos that go over the setup and progression over a year of a 160 gallon reef tank. It helped me out tremendously. I also encourage you to read through some of the members build threads on this forum, especially those that have tanks similar in size to yours. That will help you decide what type of reef you really want in the end.
Hope this helps. Research and patience are the most important tools you will need for a successful reef. and it really doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg, just the arm will do.
Jon Fishman
Cleveland Ohio, buy/sell local!
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Hey, what tank experience do you have? Freshwater? Nothing? I had no experience, so my thoughts based on what I’ve learned....
I would shoot for a 5’ tank at 200g if you can.... is 36” deep (front to back) and 27” tall?
I would make sure you can get around the tank. Reaching the back/bottom in that tank if it’s against a wall will be tough!
Coral? Fish? What’s the plan? If the tank is the size you need it for a certain space, that’s good too....
either way, Welcome!
Good advice to peruse the Large Aquarium section. Tanks of similar dimensions (higher & deeper than typical) provide great opportunities as well as challenging setup & maintenance issues to plan for. Unless you have a Kevin Durant like wingspan. Or it is a peninsula tank where you can get at it from multiple sides.
My advice at this stage:
Decide first are you going to go with/without regular water changes as @btmedic04 suggested.
Plan out how you are going to make tank maintenance easy -- so it always gets done!
I am quasi old school, so when setting up my larger DT, I plumbed in for water changes to my basement fishroom & sewer line. I can do a 35-40G WC before halftime is over. Buckets & barrels are not an option at 200G.
My advice at this stage:
Decide first are you going to go with/without regular water changes as @btmedic04 suggested.
Plan out how you are going to make tank maintenance easy -- so it always gets done!
I am quasi old school, so when setting up my larger DT, I plumbed in for water changes to my basement fishroom & sewer line. I can do a 35-40G WC before halftime is over. Buckets & barrels are not an option at 200G.
stanleo
Valuable Member
Can you explain why it's not an option at 200g to get a barrel? There are 55 gallon barrels and that's 25% of the water volume which should be fine for water changes, or am I missing something? I use a 24 gallon tote for my water changes on a 120 gallon tank and it works great.
Edited: Never mind, I just realized you were probably talking about taking the water out of the tank for water changes and yeah, it would be hard to carry a 55 gallon barrel full of water to the dump site. They would need some way to drain the water without hulling the buckets somewhere. I have a hose the reaches outside down the ravine off my deck.
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vetteguy53081
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High ticket price - Yikes !!
I am a little lazy and time constrained, and married to someone who is fairly particular about potential messes in our (her) communal living space.
Perhaps the real kicker for me is that my mixing station is in the basement so for me that would mean lugging 8 buckets up & down. Versus flipping a couple valves and firing pumps from my phone.
It does sound like your situation is different, but the sole point I am trying to make is to plan now to make maintenance easy to the point of enjoyment. Or close to it.
Perhaps the real kicker for me is that my mixing station is in the basement so for me that would mean lugging 8 buckets up & down. Versus flipping a couple valves and firing pumps from my phone.
It does sound like your situation is different, but the sole point I am trying to make is to plan now to make maintenance easy to the point of enjoyment. Or close to it.
BeejReef
2500 Club Member
Open ended question.. lol.
Some other things to consider is your house and how you intend to set this bad boy up. At 200 gallons, you're well into "fitting the house around the tank" instead of "fitting the tank into the house." Certainly can be done as a stand alone fish-tank, like you envision when you walk into the fish store. Also every possibiity you'll end up with a fish room or basement filtration system.
The more out of sight you can keep the nuts and bolts, the less expensive and uglier the setup can be.
As a starting point, ponder a mid to top tier RODI, a large mixing station, and at least 50g saltwater storage reservoir... where will all that go and how will you get water to and from the tank... custom pumps, high end doser, bucket brigade?
Any advise kinda depends on your philosophy and how you want to run it. There's a continuum (harbor freight & tractor supply -> ecotech & kessil nirvana)
Some other things to consider is your house and how you intend to set this bad boy up. At 200 gallons, you're well into "fitting the house around the tank" instead of "fitting the tank into the house." Certainly can be done as a stand alone fish-tank, like you envision when you walk into the fish store. Also every possibiity you'll end up with a fish room or basement filtration system.
The more out of sight you can keep the nuts and bolts, the less expensive and uglier the setup can be.
As a starting point, ponder a mid to top tier RODI, a large mixing station, and at least 50g saltwater storage reservoir... where will all that go and how will you get water to and from the tank... custom pumps, high end doser, bucket brigade?
Any advise kinda depends on your philosophy and how you want to run it. There's a continuum (harbor freight & tractor supply -> ecotech & kessil nirvana)
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