Mitras Lightbar 2's

[Fred’s REEF]

@Tristren - It does work, you just have to set the Mitras Light Bar channels to the other illumination channels and away you go.

@Aquius - (I am hoping it works the same way as it does for my Mitras light bar 2)

Moon light is determined by two things. The Time you wish the moonlight to impact the illumination channel which is seen in the GCC Software, or the App under Illumination, Simulation.
Here is a screen shot of my simulation on the P4

As you can see above I have my Moon start time at 5:00pm and end at 6:00am.

Now we need to choose the channel we want to impact Moon, For me it is a Blue channel, but you can choose the illumination channel on your Mitras Lights you want to be impacted by moonlight and check the box depends on moonphase. Most of the time your channels would be at 0 or off at night, so you will need to ramp it back up to the intensity you wish the moon light to be with an understanding it will be adjusted in intensity by the simulation.

I may be able to simulate the WWC on the Mitras lx also, just need find a project file to play with.

Hi,
I'm new on the forum. Sorry for my english i'm french people ;-)
I want to know if for the moon simulation the overal Brightness on light composer can be at 0 %, and if the Channels (with moon simulation) can be at 0 % during the moon period ?
Thank you for future answer.

 

[Ditto]

Fred's REEF - Welcome to the Forums

I believe you are asking can the Channel I am using for moon light be set in composer to 0% and then enable moon simulation. I assume what your doing is your using the Lightbar to simulate Sunrise and Sunset and at the end of the day you want the moon light to be enabled, but composer shows it at 0%.

The answer is yes you can leave it at 0%, the overall brightness on the channel is set to the brightness of the moon. It overrides the channel. Make sure you set your Moonlight times to between sunset and sunrise

 

[Fred’s REEF]

Thank you I will try it ASAP ;-)

 

[Fred’s REEF]

First - if you get any more light bars - get the deep actinic. If you have T 5 tubes to - go for Actinic tubes. I got 2 pcs 120 deep Actinic, 1 pcs 120 Actinic and one pcs 110 Ocean Blue. If I run all at 100% I get a mix that says around 16 000 K. But because of the RGB:s - this light does not look blue - it is crispy white - but real K of the LEDs is 16 000 K. Whit your light running at 100% you will get a light at around 10 000 K. if you run all of your blue (no else) - you will get 21 000 as K but it will look very blue. If you run all blue and all RGB - you will get a K at 17 000 but it will look rather white for you.

The RGB in this fixture is a game changer according to real K and how your brain interprets it. The brain say one K - the mathematical calculations of the LEDs says another thing (the real thing).

This is the spectra and output of my configuration - all channels 100% (two Deep Actinic 120, one actinic 120 and one Ocean Blue 110)

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This is your configuration for the moment - all channels 100%

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Your configuration + one 140 Deep Actinic

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Your configuration + two 140 Deep Actinic

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When you put the things together - test. I run my configuration on 100% for around 3 hours a day

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I hope this will help you a little

I will once again stress that the use of a lot of RGB:s in this fixture - your impression of 16 000 K is not blue - it is rather crispy white

If I take down all of my whites - the spectra will be as this but for your eyes - it still rather white

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All simulations is done in the GCC Light Composer. Use the option create empty project for several Mitras Lightbars……..

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Chose your configuration

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This is your start

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Press New Start with a zero line

And end with a zero line

End light composer with pressing the X

For the moment - chose No

New window - yes and after that chose place and name

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Next time you open Light composer - chose Load own project. But before this go to the meny Mitras LED bars and configure your LightBars. assign a illumination channel to each LED type there is in your bars. I use 1 for red. At least in my P4 - ill 1 and red has to be activated if the others should work. I´m not sure on this but that how it works for me. The PBF is an interesting feature that allow an overdrive for the channels you want if all channels not is used at 100%. I have my white as 80% but here I have put your white channels at 100% - all others at 120% (allow overdrive) Channel 32 is LEDs that not are present in your setup. Do not forget to save!

Go to the system menu and activate the serial port for Mitras LED bars

Now you need to go into every Illuminating channel you will use and mark that they should be dimmable

Now its time to load your project and hit the button Transmitt ill...…………..

Save and it should work

Hint When you configurate the different time points - you can check the Output directly to lamp and you will see how it looks like IRL. If you use this option - connect with the USB cable. For me and P4 I get an error if I try to do this with the TCP/IP connection and lose what I have done in configurations

Hint 2: If you use the option Create empty project for several Mitras LED bars (I recommend to use that) you have to save and reload the project before you can transmitt it to the Ill channels

Sincerely Lasse

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Hi,
Thanks for sharing this very interesting information.
I have a question.
I have see that you change the value in PBF

Do you change the values in here sometimes for the différents led ?

Thank you for your future answer.

 

[Lasse]

No - I´m create my light project with help of adding my light bars and use the standard settings. I think the possibility to change the figures you mention are for DIY project - but I´m not sure - I can be wrong.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Gareth Kirwan]

Quick update:
Lightbars fitted perfectly to the hood which was custom made to mount them.
They give great coverage without needing any angling yet.

I haven't yet set them up properly, just used GHL connect to do a basic ramp up and down, since it's a pain to get GCC connected.

So overall, I'd say 4 of these are sufficient for a 180g 6'.

 

[Lasse]

Can't you use the USB connection. It is easy. Just do a setup with a whatever comport. Save. Close GCC. Start GCC. Mark the new connection - chose administration. You get a new window up. Chose device manager. Expand com and LPT ports. Notice the com number. Edit your connection with right com port.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Gareth Kirwan]

Let me rephrase that:
I don't have a single windows machine right now. Just macbooks.

I'll run a virtualbox up some time soon, so that's all I'm waiting on.

 

[Yanos]

I have a question guys.
I’m due to upgrade my lights in couple of weeks.
What should I go for, Mitras Lx7206 or Lightbars?
My fish tank is mixed reef with 80% of sps.
The actual fish tank is 64”x36”x28 high.

 

[Ditto]

Do you know your PAR values on your lights today? What lights are you running today?

 

[Yanos]

Ati Powermodule
8x80W
PAR reads at 120 half way down

 

[Lasse]

Are you pleased with your T5 tubes? Is that type of light you want (a little more equal and spread light) Do you have a profilux controller today? What is your present mix of T5 tubes?

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Jaebster]

I have a question guys.
I’m due to upgrade my lights in couple of weeks.
What should I go for, Mitras Lx7206 or Lightbars?
My fish tank is mixed reef with 80% of sps.
The actual fish tank is 64”x36”x28 high.

In my build, I'm going with 4x 7206s and 2x deep actinic lightbars2s Just received my power supply and splitter for the LB2 yesterday. Tank is 79"x25"x25". In still pretty far off from setting up the lights. The 4x 7026s lights will be mounted horizontally with the tank and the LB2s will be mounted as supplements on the outer front and back of the 7206s.
I dont know what your budget is but with your dimensions, you can try something like mine.

 

[Yanos]

In my build, I'm going with 4x 7206s and 2x deep actinic lightbars2s Just received my power supply and splitter for the LB2 yesterday. Tank is 79"x25"x25". In still pretty far off from setting up the lights. The 4x 7026s lights will be mounted horizontally with the tank and the LB2s will be mounted as supplements on the outer front and back of the 7206s.
I dont know what your budget is but with your dimensions, you can try something like mine.

I don’t really have budget.
I’d like to get an opinion, of which way should I head.

 

[Yanos]

Are you pleased with your T5 tubes? Is that type of light you want (a little more equal and spread light) Do you have a profilux controller today? What is your present mix of T5 tubes?

Sincerely Lasse

Yes. I have ProfiLux and I do like nice blanket of light, from my T5s. Don’t remember exact combination. Been a while since I replaced them.
These are 3x blue, 3x purple and 2x white.

 

[Yanos]

I’ve done some research.
I’d either go with 4 Mitras or 6 Lightbars: 2x deep actinic, 3x actinic and 1x ocean blue

 

[Lasse]

IMO The Mitras Bar 2 is the closest you can come to T5 spread today. Mitras bar 2 is dumb fixtures - you need a P-light (WiFi), a P-mini (WiFi), a P3 or a P4. But with these computers - you will have up to 10 channels (depending on type of fixture).

The Mitras bar2 have an unique combination of Cree RGB leds that will give you a rather white hint - even if you run heavy blue. In my tank - I have 2 bar2 Deep actinic, 1 bar2 Actinic and 1 Ocean Blue. I chose the Ocean Blue because I did want som lower K LEDs but if I look at the visual - I could have run with 3 deep actinic and one Actinic.

I play around a little with light composer (in the GCC)

2 Deep A, 3 A and 1 O blue

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3 deep A, 2 A and 1 O blue

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4 deep A 2 A and

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5 deep A 1 A

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6 deep A

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All of the 160 type

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Yanos]

So they all will be 160. And what mix should I have?

 

[Lasse]

So they all will be 160. And what mix should I have?

That was the one million question

I´m rather pleased with my own configuration -

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In your case 3 deep A, 2 A and 1 O blue.

My whites follow this path

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RGB and the blues follow another path

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In your case - every bar 160 will take 105 W - the largest power unit they have is 300 W. I chose three 120 and one 110 in my setup - reaching 301 W. Maybe you need to run with four 160 and two 140 in two groups each containing two 160 and one 140 in each group. It should be 301 W on each 300 watts power unit - the same as I use with no problems. It is possible to run three 160 (315 W) at one 300 W power unit - you just configure them to max 95 % power usage

But if you like a blue look - you can skip the O blue for another deep actinic

You need 6 bars, at least two power units, one active splitter, 2 passive splitters and one connection cable between your profilux and the active splitter (it is different cables for p3 and p4)

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Yanos]

Looks like I’ll be going for Lightbars then. In this case I hoped for six bars run at 85%, two power supplies @300W each, two splits with four connections each and my P4. Is that good enough?