Mitras Lightbar 2's

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Tristren

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Ok,

So the Lightbars arrived this week (thanks to @Vinny@GHLUSA and @Marco@GHLUSA), along with the Profilux Light and various connectors. Hoping to get it all up and running this weekend.

My tank is a 120 gallon High, so 5' by 18" by 26". I've got a 140 Ocean Blue and a 80 Ocean Blue to start.

@Ditto and @Lasse and others, what would you recommend in terms of lighting profile?

Cheers, Tony
 

Ditto

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@Tristren - I will pull my profile for you and post. Make sure you set your acclimation profile also on the lightbars :)

I am going to be interested in what Lasse post also hehe
 
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@Tristren - I will pull my profile for you and post. Make sure you set your acclimation profile also on the lightbars :)

I am going to be interested in what Lasse post also hehe

Great, thanks very much.

Yes, I'll certainly use the acclimation.
Looking forward to using the seasonal and moonlight features as well.

Cheers
 

Lasse

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First - if you get any more light bars - get the deep actinic. If you have T 5 tubes to - go for Actinic tubes. I got 2 pcs 120 deep Actinic, 1 pcs 120 Actinic and one pcs 110 Ocean Blue. If I run all at 100% I get a mix that says around 16 000 K. But because of the RGB:s - this light does not look blue - it is crispy white - but real K of the LEDs is 16 000 K. Whit your light running at 100% you will get a light at around 10 000 K. if you run all of your blue (no else) - you will get 21 000 as K but it will look very blue. If you run all blue and all RGB - you will get a K at 17 000 but it will look rather white for you.

The RGB in this fixture is a game changer according to real K and how your brain interprets it. The brain say one K - the mathematical calculations of the LEDs says another thing (the real thing).

This is the spectra and output of my configuration - all channels 100% (two Deep Actinic 120, one actinic 120 and one Ocean Blue 110)

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.04 PM.PNG

This is your configuration for the moment - all channels 100%

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.13 PM.PNG

Your configuration + one 140 Deep Actinic

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.14 PM.PNG

Your configuration + two 140 Deep Actinic

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.15 PM.PNG

When you put the things together - test. I run my configuration on 100% for around 3 hours a day

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.22 PM.PNG

I hope this will help you a little

I will once again stress that the use of a lot of RGB:s in this fixture - your impression of 16 000 K is not blue - it is rather crispy white

If I take down all of my whites - the spectra will be as this but for your eyes - it still rather white

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.27 PM.PNG

All simulations is done in the GCC Light Composer. Use the option create empty project for several Mitras Lightbars……..

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.47 PM.PNG

Chose your configuration

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.48 PM.PNG

This is your start


Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.51 PM.PNG

Press New Start with a zero line

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.00 PM.PNG

And end with a zero line

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.07 PM.PNG


End light composer with pressing the X

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.09 PM.PNG

For the moment - chose No

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.10 PM.PNG

New window - yes and after that chose place and name

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.22 PM.PNG


Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.23 PM.PNG

Next time you open Light composer - chose Load own project. But before this go to the meny Mitras LED bars and configure your LightBars. assign a illumination channel to each LED type there is in your bars. I use 1 for red. At least in my P4 - ill 1 and red has to be activated if the others should work. I´m not sure on this but that how it works for me. The PBF is an interesting feature that allow an overdrive for the channels you want if all channels not is used at 100%. I have my white as 80% but here I have put your white channels at 100% - all others at 120% (allow overdrive) Channel 32 is LEDs that not are present in your setup. Do not forget to save!

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.31 PM.PNG

Go to the system menu and activate the serial port for Mitras LED bars

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.34 PM.PNG
Now you need to go into every Illuminating channel you will use and mark that they should be dimmable

Now its time to load your project and hit the button Transmitt ill...…………..

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 09.09 PM.PNG

Save and it should work

Hint When you configurate the different time points - you can check the Output directly to lamp and you will see how it looks like IRL. If you use this option - connect with the USB cable. For me and P4 I get an error if I try to do this with the TCP/IP connection and lose what I have done in configurations

Hint 2: If you use the option Create empty project for several Mitras LED bars (I recommend to use that) you have to save and reload the project before you can transmitt it to the Ill channels

Sincerely Lasse


 
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Ditto

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@Lasse - Is it possible to share your file I would like to compare yours to mine?

Are you running Red Green at 100% ?

Thanks
 

Lasse

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Here it is but it is adjusted for my type of LED bars. You need to save it and after that rename it as lasse.lpc because I can´t upload .lpc files. I do not know if this work or not. My schedule is not done in a scientist way - it only done in my own :) But - yes I run the RGB at 100% most of the time. If you can´t use my file - please send your e-mail adress through private message

Sincerely Lasse
 

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Tristren

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First - if you get any more light bars - get the deep actinic. If you have T 5 tubes to - go for Actinic tubes. I got 2 pcs 120 deep Actinic, 1 pcs 120 Actinic and one pcs 110 Ocean Blue. If I run all at 100% I get a mix that says around 16 000 K. But because of the RGB:s - this light does not look blue - it is crispy white - but real K of the LEDs is 16 000 K. Whit your light running at 100% you will get a light at around 10 000 K. if you run all of your blue (no else) - you will get 21 000 as K but it will look very blue. If you run all blue and all RGB - you will get a K at 17 000 but it will look rather white for you.

The RGB in this fixture is a game changer according to real K and how your brain interprets it. The brain say another K - the mathematical calculations of the LEDs says another thing (the real thing).

This is the spectra and output of my configuration - all channels 100% (two Deep Actinic 120, one actinic 120 and one Ocean Blue 110)

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.04 PM.PNG

This is your configuration for the moment - all channels 100%

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.13 PM.PNG

Your configuration + one 140 Deep Actinic

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.14 PM.PNG

Your configuration + two 140 Deep Actinic

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.15 PM.PNG

When you put the things together - test. I run my configuration on 100% for around 3 hours a day

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.22 PM.PNG

I hope this will help you a little

I will once again stress that the use of a lot of RGB:s in this fixture - your impression of 16 000 K is not blue - it is rather crispy white

If I take down all of my whites - the spectra will be as this but for your eyes - it still rather white

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.27 PM.PNG

All simulations is done in the GCC Light Composer. Use the option create empty project for several Mitras Lightbars……..

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.47 PM.PNG

Chose your configuration

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.48 PM.PNG

This is your start


Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 07.51 PM.PNG

Press New Start with a zero line

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.00 PM.PNG

And end with a zero line

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.07 PM.PNG


End light composer with pressing the X

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.09 PM.PNG

For the moment - chose No

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.10 PM.PNG

New window - yes and after that chose place and name

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.22 PM.PNG


Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.23 PM.PNG

Next time you open Light composer - chose Load own project. But before this go to the meny Mitras LED bars and configure your LightBars. assign a illumination channel to each LED type there is in your bars. I use 1 for red. At least in my P4 - ill 1 and red has to be activated if the others should work. I´m not sure on this but that how it works for me. The PBF is an interesting feature that allow an overdrive for the channels you want if all channels not is used at 100%. I have my white as 80% but here I have put your white channels at 100% - all others at 120% (allow overdrive) Channel 32 is LEDs that not are present in your setup. Do not forget to save!

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.31 PM.PNG

Go to the system menu and activate the serial port for Mitras LED bars

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 08.34 PM.PNG
Now you need to go into every Illuminating channel you will use and mark that they should be dimmable

Now its time to load your project and hit the button Transmitt ill...…………..

Screen Shot 07-07-18 at 09.09 PM.PNG

Save and it should work

Hint When you configurate the different time points - you can check the Output directly to lamp and you will see how it looks like IRL. If you use this option - connect with the USB cable. For me and P4 I get an error if I try to do this with the TCP/IP connection and lose what I have done in configurations

Hint 2: If you use the option Create empty project for several Mitras LED bars (I recommend to use that) you have to save and reload the project before you can transmitt it to the Ill channels

Sincerely Lasse


Thanks very much, this is incredibly helpful. This will be my first hands on use of anything GHL so I'm looking forward to it.

So far I've hooked up the Profilux Light and updated the firmware, fixed the time, and saved the settings to a file. All very smooth!

The GCC user experience is a bit old school. More PC than app. But there are lots of very clear instructions so it should be fine even for young folk used to more plug and play.

Now off to get dinner ready. Depending on when the kids go down I'll get to the Lightbars either tonight or in the morning.

So for that, am I right in my understanding that I will be assigning the channels across both my light fixtures. And then when I go into to the light composer it treats them all as one big light and send the message to them all?

I have the splitter and cables.

So in your setup with the different types of bars when you adjust one of the common channels it adjusts all the units. And when you adjust a channel that is only on your deep actinic, for example, it just affects that one?

Thanks again!
Tony
 

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@Tristren your 100% spot on that each light channel is for all lights plugged in.

Royal Blue is Royal blue on all the lights, you see this when you look at the Mitras channels and assign them to the illumination channels :)
 
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@Tristren your 100% spot on that each light channel is for all lights plugged in.

Royal Blue is Royal blue on all the lights, you see this when you look at the Mitras channels and assign them to the illumination channels :)

That's great, thanks.

So what settings are you using?

Tony
 
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First - if you get any more light bars - get the deep actinic.

Deep actinic as opposed to the regular actinic?

I had actually gone for the Ocean Blue because, like you, I prefer the white look. But based on what you've said here, I can get that from the actinics as well. So with the deep actinic the benefit is the UV?

Tony
 

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@Tristren - I am trying to re-create my profile now. Wish It would allow you to export what my channels were into a LPC file.

I started with the template for Deep Antic and I kept adjusting it to what I liked. I am going to pull my par meter out tomorrow and go from 80% which is my max to 100% to see the difference.

The Deep Antics, are missing the WHITE-6500K channel and the Antic is missing the DEEPBLUE-450NM.

I also prefer the white look also, but I do have a tint of blue in the evening hours :)
 
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@Tristren - I am trying to re-create my profile now. Wish It would allow you to export what my channels were into a LPC file.

I started with the template for Deep Antic and I kept adjusting it to what I liked. I am goign to pull my par meter out tomorrow and go from 80% which is my max to 100% to see the difference.

The Deep Antics, are missing the WHITE-6500K channel and the Antic is missing the DEEPBLUE-450NM.

I also prefer the white look also, but I do have a tint of blue in the evening hours :)
Thanks very much.

I'm going to borrow a par meter from my LFS this week and see where things are at.

I got a 140 and an 80 (essential one full length and one half length) with the idea of having a wider range of PAR, as I like softies and LPS but would like some SPS too.

If these work out then I may well add a another full Deep Actinic too.

Cheers, Tony
 

Lasse

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Deep Actinic - every module 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K White, 1 pcs 425 nm actinic, 1 pcs 450 nm Deep Blue and 1 455 nm Royal Blue
Actinic - every module 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K white, 1 pcs 6500 K White, 1 pcs 425 nm Actinic and 1 pcs 455 royal Blue.
Ocean Blue 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K white, 1 pcs 6500 K white, 1 pcs 4500 K White and 1 pcs 455 Royal Blue

IMO - if you are going to get another Mitras Light Bar - I would suggest to pick only deep actinic. You will have a white look because of the RGB:s if you run them at 100%

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Here it is but it is adjusted for my type of LED bars. You need to save it and after that rename it as lasse.lpc because I can´t upload .lpc files. I do not know if this work or not. My schedule is not done in a scientist way - it only done in my own :) But - yes I run the RGB at 100% most of the time. If you can´t use my file - please send your e-mail adress through private message

Sincerely Lasse
Hi there, "file corrupted" error.
 
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Deep Actinic - every module 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K White, 1 pcs 425 nm actinic, 1 pcs 450 nm Deep Blue and 1 455 nm Royal Blue
Actinic - every module 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K white, 1 pcs 6500 K White, 1 pcs 425 nm Actinic and 1 pcs 455 royal Blue.
Ocean Blue 4 pcs RGB, 1 pcs 8000 K white, 1 pcs 6500 K white, 1 pcs 4500 K White and 1 pcs 455 Royal Blue

IMO - if you are going to get another Mitras Light Bar - I would suggest to pick only deep actinic. You will have a white look because of the RGB:s if you run them at 100%

Sincerely Lasse
Thanks very much. I have them up and running now and am very impressed with how they look. I have them on the acclimation mode, starting at 50%. But even at that they are very bright.

I am worried about algae, but that is a bigger problem really and I'm working on other things for that as well.

I still need to get the settings right, so any suggestions are welcome there.

Then I want to look at moonlight, seasonal, rainy days etc... I know that many see those as gimmicks (and what do I know really?) But it seems like they allow for a more natural exposure for the animals in the tank, which must be a good idea.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Cheers, Tony
 

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I have configurate my white channels to respond to clouds and to respond to two rainy days a week (Monday and Thursday) Cloud darkening 30 % and rainy days 50 %. The white channels will respond to temperature reduction. The RGB and blue - always after my schedule. I do not use moonlight simulation as I have my refugium light going into the DT during nights.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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I just wanted to say thank you again to @Lasse and @Ditto for all of your help. Here and in your own threads as well.

And of course to @Vinny@GHLUSA and team for getting me the lights in the first place. All i have at this point are initial impressions, but I have to say that I am really impressed so far.


Cheers
 
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I have configurate my white channels to respond to clouds and to respond to two rainy days a week (Monday and Thursday) Cloud darkening 30 % and rainy days 50 %. The white channels will respond to temperature reduction. The RGB and blue - always after my schedule. I do not use moonlight simulation as I have my refugium light going into the DT during nights.

Sincerely Lasse
Thanks, I'll look at the rain and clouds next. I've set up the moonlight so we'll see how that goes tonight.
 

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