Monti bleaching

Dana Riddle

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I’m a member of the Facebook page, but not an actual member. I’ll have to check on what it tales to become a member. I honestly just put it like that because when I glued it parallel to the floor it wouldn’t hold to the glue. And about the 5th try I did it like that just to see if it was able to stick to the glue at all and it stayed. It looked beautiful up until about 2 weeks ago and was even growing. I also have a Christmas tree monti and a Superman monti. Neither are looking particularly wonderful. As of this past week either. So the lower par may be why the red monti started looking bad first, but I feel like there’s something else going on too, since the others aren’t looking as good either. But I may be wrong.
Joe Yaiullo of the Long Island Aquarium correctly said reef-keeping is a chess game you'll never win. Perhaps you're already doing this - I glue new frags to a small piece of rock and then watch them like a hawk. If something seems amiss, I can easily move them. Once they have adjusted and are starting to grow, I'll glue them in a spot with similar lighting conditions. Like this:

forestfire.jpg
 

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Joe Yaiullo of the Long Island Aquarium correctly said reef-keeping is a chess game you'll never win. Perhaps you're already doing this - I glue new frags to a small piece of rock and then watch them like a hawk. If something seems amiss, I can easily move them. Once they have adjusted and are starting to grow, I'll glue them in a spot with similar lighting conditions. Like this:

forestfire.jpg
Dana, any advice on this if you have urchins lol My urchins move EVERY frag that isn't glued down!! I knew that when I got them, but they are too good at eating GHA to take them out...
 

Dana Riddle

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Dana, any advice on this if you have urchins lol My urchins move EVERY frag that isn't glued down!! I knew that when I got them, but they are too good at eating GHA to take them out...
No urchins, but I do have 5 Fighting Conchs. The trick is to glue the frags to a piece of rock large enough to make the conchs go around.
 
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Joe Yaiullo of the Long Island Aquarium correctly said reef-keeping is a chess game you'll never win. Perhaps you're already doing this - I glue new frags to a small piece of rock and then watch them like a hawk. If something seems amiss, I can easily move them. Once they have adjusted and are starting to grow, I'll glue them in a spot with similar lighting conditions. Like this:

forestfire.jpg

Honestly, once I get the cube set up, my plan is to start work on a frag tank. And then only transfer frags once they’re looking good in the frag tank. I just moved my office upstairs to a guest room that was rarely used so that my downstairs office can be a dedicated space for fish.

The monti was acclimated for about a month before I picked a permanent home. Do you think I should give them More time? Gluing it to a rock first is smart though.

Do you think I should remove the monti and reposition it? The glue will pop off the back super easily.
 
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Getting ready to mix a new batch of salt water. The kh is at 0 before I add salt. Let’s see where it’s at in a few hours.
 
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Here’s my other two monti’s that aren’t looking great. These are far more recent, like the last few days, that I noticed they were as bright. One is a Christmas tree and normally is covered in orange polyps (the camera doesn’t pick them up well, so it’s hard to tell that there are some still visible) and the other is a Superman monti. It’s looking a little splotchy. I got it the weekend of the Atlanta reef club event. It’s not really changed much since I’ve gotten it, which is why it’s still sitting on that plug.

@Hemmdog is right. I do need to treat myself to a lens for my phone. Though I just treated myself to a really nice pump and schedule 80 plumbing for the new tank... so may be a bit before I do that.

FD5C2F3D-A456-4D91-B6C2-A0E0316076E2.jpeg 116C63C9-E1BB-4C57-9F78-EA1BAC8F20B6.jpeg
 

Dana Riddle

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Honestly, once I get the cube set up, my plan is to start work on a frag tank. And then only transfer frags once they’re looking good in the frag tank. I just moved my office upstairs to a guest room that was rarely used so that my downstairs office can be a dedicated space for fish.

The monti was acclimated for about a month before I picked a permanent home. Do you think I should give them More time? Gluing it to a rock first is smart though.

Do you think I should remove the monti and reposition it? The glue will pop off the back super easily.
[/QUOT
Move the Superman and other Monti? Yes, if they don't seem happy (love that anthropogenic term) move 'em. A PAR value of about 200 should do the trick. As for the Monti on the back, I don't think you've got anything to lose. Smell it for that unique coral odor t see if it's still alive.
 
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I don’t see your response. ☹️
 

Dana Riddle

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Here’s my other two monti’s that aren’t looking great. These are far more recent, like the last few days, that I noticed they were as bright. One is a Christmas tree and normally is covered in orange polyps (the camera doesn’t pick them up well, so it’s hard to tell that there are some still visible) and the other is a Superman monti. It’s looking a little splotchy. I got it the weekend of the Atlanta reef club event. It’s not really changed much since I’ve gotten it, which is why it’s still sitting on that plug.

@Hemmdog is right. I do need to treat myself to a lens for my phone. Though I just treated myself to a really nice pump and schedule 80 plumbing for the new tank... so may be a bit before I do that.

FD5C2F3D-A456-4D91-B6C2-A0E0316076E2.jpeg 116C63C9-E1BB-4C57-9F78-EA1BAC8F20B6.jpeg
The lack of polyp expansion is a concern. There are many reasons this can happen. First, if lighting is too intense, the polyp will contract in order to self-shade which offers some protection. I don't think this is the case. The most likely cause, IMHO, is flow-related. Corals have the ability to know if the energy required for polyp expansion is worth it - if particle capture is low and doesn't cover the energy required, the polyps will retract and stay that way (this research by others - not me.) Montipora means roughly 'mountain pore' due to their often hillocky shape. These hillocks act as 'speed-breakers' to flow and slow it down in order for particles to be captured and consumed. If loss of coloration is sudden, this indicates a dramatic event occurred (temp, alk, pH modulations.) Color generation and loss has been proven to be a slow (weeks) process (from the lab of Mikhail Matz.) Now, help me out please. I started to read your build thread and realized it goes at least 15 pages. What lighting are you currently using? What pumps for water flow?
 
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The lack of polyp expansion is a concern. There are many reasons this can happen. First, if lighting is too intense, the polyp will contract in order to self-shade which offers some protection. I don't think this is the case. The most likely cause, IMHO, is flow-related. Corals have the ability to know if the energy required for polyp expansion is worth it - if particle capture is low and doesn't cover the energy required, the polyps will retract and stay that way (this research by others - not me.) Montipora means roughly 'mountain pore' due to their often hillocky shape. These hillocks act as 'speed-breakers' to flow and slow it down in order for particles to be captured and consumed. If loss of coloration is sudden, this indicates a dramatic event occurred (temp, alk, pH modulations.) Color generation and loss has been proven to be a slow (weeks) process (from the lab of Mikhail Matz.) Now, help me out please. I started to read your build thread and realized it goes at least 15 pages. What lighting are you currently using? What pumps for water flow?

Lol. Yeah. It’s a lot to wade through. Currently I have the stock 29 biocube lights. It’s a white 10,000k cf, a actinic blue cf and blue led light strip. I have several other strips that are currently unused but where more light could be added.

The flow is the pump that comes stock and a small power head. I’ll take pictures so you can see. The power head was pointing right at the Red monti at one point, but I see that it’s been bumped a bit.

I got the VarioS-6 pump for the new tank. I have a 3/4 inch loc line split to a 1/2 inch loc line coming in. I’ve heard that getting adequate flow in a cube cane be difficult, So I’ll put several power heads in it. Right now, I’m leaning towards radions for lights.

image.jpg image.jpg
 

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Here’s my other two monti’s that aren’t looking great. These are far more recent, like the last few days, that I noticed they were as bright. One is a Christmas tree and normally is covered in orange polyps (the camera doesn’t pick them up well, so it’s hard to tell that there are some still visible) and the other is a Superman monti. It’s looking a little splotchy. I got it the weekend of the Atlanta reef club event. It’s not really changed much since I’ve gotten it, which is why it’s still sitting on that plug.

@Hemmdog is right. I do need to treat myself to a lens for my phone. Though I just treated myself to a really nice pump and schedule 80 plumbing for the new tank... so may be a bit before I do that.

FD5C2F3D-A456-4D91-B6C2-A0E0316076E2.jpeg 116C63C9-E1BB-4C57-9F78-EA1BAC8F20B6.jpeg

What are your current water parameters?
Salinity
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Nitrates
Temperature

Also, what type of lighting do you have? T5 or LED?
 

Dana Riddle

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Lol. Yeah. It’s a lot to wade through. Currently I have the stock 29 biocube lights. It’s a white 10,000k cf, a actinic blue cf and blue led light strip. I have several other strips that are currently unused but where more light could be added.

The flow is the pump that comes stock and a small power head. I’ll take pictures so you can see. The power head was pointing right at the Red monti at one point, but I see that it’s been bumped a bit.

I got the VarioS-6 pump for the new tank. I have a 3/4 inch loc line split to a 1/2 inch loc line coming in. I’ve heard that getting adequate flow in a cube cane be difficult, So I’ll put several power heads in it. Right now, I’m leaning towards radions for lights.

image.jpg image.jpg
Yes a picture is worth a 1,000 posts. Wattage of lamps?
 
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What are your current water parameters?
Salinity
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Nitrates
Temperature

Also, what type of lighting do you have? T5 or LED?

Salinity 1.025-1.026
Alkalinity 6
Calcium 410
Magnesium 1300
Nitrates 25
Temperature 78.6

It’s cf and led. There’s a picture of them directly before your post.
 

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Salinity 1.025-1.026
Alkalinity 6
Calcium 410
Magnesium 1300
Nitrates 25
Temperature 78.6

It’s cf and led. There’s a picture of them directly before your post.
That alk is dangerously low. Be careful :eek:
 
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That alk is dangerously low. Be careful :eek:
Yeah... that’s why we discussing how it could be so low. I’m about to test the alkalinity of the salt I just mixed. To see if it’s actually mixing at the level it’s suppose to be.
 

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Yeah... that’s why we discussing how it could be so low. I’m about to test the alkalinity of the salt I just mixed. To see if it’s actually mixing at the level it’s suppose to be.
Lol you have a ton of coral in a 30 gal! That’s how! lol ;)
 
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So I need to add some more salt still, the salinity is 1.024. But the alk is measuring 8.5 I feel like it should be higher already. I’m about to test my refractometer with the standard. Maybe it got way off at some point.
 
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So I need to add some more salt still, the salinity is 1.024. But the alk is measuring 8.5 I feel like it should be higher already. I’m about to test my refractometer with the standard. Maybe it got way off at some point.

Okay. My refractometer needed to be adjusted down. The 35 ppt solution was showing 38 ppt. That makes my water actually be closer to 1.022. So I’ve def not been mixing the salt water strong enough. Not sure how long that’s been an issue. Should the kh still be a tad higher at that salinity though? Maybe that’s the kh you’d expect at a that salinity. I don’t know.
 
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Ugh. This makes since. I had calculated how many grams I needed for my water volume to get to 1.026. And my refractometer showed me I way over shot it. Probably because it was refractometer needed to be calibrated. Such a simple and dumb mistake. Hopefully I can get everything fixed.
 

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