My Current QT Process

CoreyWakefield123

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I am thinking they may just be natural markings. They don't appear to be anything disease related to me.

@4FordFamily @Big G @ngoodermuth what do you all think?
This thread has been so helpful! Took me a while to read through it all and I've made notes entitled Quarantine Protocol lol. As far as the original method described in the first post, this would likely be sufficient for most fish correct? But with others like Anthias, chromis and clownfish would you reccomend the alternating GC and metro dosing described above for the first 10 days in therapeutic copper in addition to feeding the food mixed as described in the first post?
Also what would you recommend for mandarins and eels? CP 40-80mg for 14 days while feeding GC then transfer to sterile QT and observe? Anything else?
Thanks for your help you have made things so much easier and yet much more difficult, but I am sure I will thank you in the long run!
 

LawJp

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Try a freshwater dip in a dark bucket. See if any “sesame seed” appearing things drop off, if the black spot goes away. Report back.

It could just be a skin reaction to meds, in which case I’d see if it improves with time.

Could be tough flukes, or black ich.

Thanks for the help guys. Tomorrow was going to be day six on the first General Cure dose, so I was going to do a 25% WC and then start the second dose. Would the freshwater dip help if it were flukes of some sort, or would the second dose probably take care of them anyway. Just don't want to stress the fish out more than it needs to be, unless the freshwater dip would make the second dose of general cure more effective.

I am new to all this, you guys have been a great help, just in reading all the past posts!

-Brian
 

Big G

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I am thinking they may just be natural markings. They don't appear to be anything disease related to me.

@4FordFamily @Big G @ngoodermuth what do you all think?
The two lesions look a lot like Hole-in-the-Head disease lesions, especially the one nearer to the pectoral fin. While usually presenting on the head of fish, they can present on the body as well. If more spots appear, treat with Metro. Good high quality vege foods, remove active carbon filtration and any protein skimming
 
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This thread has been so helpful! Took me a while to read through it all and I've made notes entitled Quarantine Protocol lol. As far as the original method described in the first post, this would likely be sufficient for most fish correct? But with others like Anthias, chromis and clownfish would you reccomend the alternating GC and metro dosing described above for the first 10 days in therapeutic copper in addition to feeding the food mixed as described in the first post?
Also what would you recommend for mandarins and eels? CP 40-80mg for 14 days while feeding GC then transfer to sterile QT and observe? Anything else?
Thanks for your help you have made things so much easier and yet much more difficult, but I am sure I will thank you in the long run!
No problem! Glad it's helped.

So I need to rewrite the first post. Yes for anthias, chromis, etc. Use copper + metro for the first ten days.

Dose metro at full strength days 1,3,5,7,9.

Mandarins and eels are best in CP. Using pharmaceutical grade CP at 60mg/gal

We are still working through using CP properly. My current recommendation would be start with a freshly sterilized tank. Zero biofilter. If you want to use some mechanical filtration make sure the filter does NOT contain polyfiber.

Use prime to mitigate ammonia. Run for 10 days and transfer fish to sterile tank. You can feed GC soaked foods no problem. Keep the bioload extremely light.
 

CoreyWakefield123

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No problem! Glad it's helped.

So I need to rewrite the first post. Yes for anthias, chromis, etc. Use copper + metro for the first ten days.

Dose metro at full strength days 1,3,5,7,9.

Mandarins and eels are best in CP. Using pharmaceutical grade CP at 60mg/gal

We are still working through using CP properly. My current recommendation would be start with a freshly sterilized tank. Zero biofilter. If you want to use some mechanical filtration make sure the filter does NOT contain polyfiber.

Use prime to mitigate ammonia. Run for 10 days and transfer fish to sterile tank. You can feed GC soaked foods no problem. Keep the bioload extremely light.

Thanks! If I use ceramic media seeded from my display and water from the display (freshly cycled empty) I will likely not have to deal with much ammonia right? The idea of putting them into water that isn't cycled without a filter just makes me nervous
 
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Thanks! If I use ceramic media seeded from my display and water from the display (freshly cycled empty) I will likely not have to deal with much ammonia right? The idea of putting them into water that isn't cycled without a filter just makes me nervous
For using copper yes. Using CP I would not.
 
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What about a sponge filter? Or not even the wheel in the hob filter? Just an airstone?
You can use a fresh sponge filter for mechanical filtration. That is not an issue. Airstone is also fine to use with chloroquine phosphate. I would remove the biowheel for CP, for copper you can run whatever you want and a full biofilter.
 

CoreyWakefield123

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You can use a fresh sponge filter for mechanical filtration. That is not an issue. Airstone is also fine to use with chloroquine phosphate. I would remove the biowheel for CP, for copper you can run whatever you want and a full biofilter.
Thanks again my fish guru friend! My fish will thank you for your knowledge and willingness to help. Seriously though your an awesome person for investing so much of your time for the purpose of helping other hobbyists.
 
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Thanks again my fish guru friend! My fish will thank you for your knowledge and willingness to help. Seriously though your an awesome person for investing so much of your time for the purpose of helping other hobbyists.
Thanks for the kind words and I wish you the best of luck. :)
 

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My apologies if it has been covered and I missed it looking thru this thread but is there a difference between copper and CP? Seems they are referenced as distinct things. Also, is CP just short for Copper Pro?
 

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Try a freshwater dip in a dark bucket. See if any “sesame seed” appearing things drop off, if the black spot goes away. Report back.

It could just be a skin reaction to meds, in which case I’d see if it improves with time.

Could be tough flukes, or black ich.


Well, I saw today that the fish has stringy white poop so looks like it at least has internal parasite of some sort still? Like I said, I did 14 days of GC/Focus while they were in Copper Power tank.

I guess I will dose the water with the second round of General Cure in the water tonight and then start with another round of 14 days of General Cure/Focus in the fish food? What do you guys think? I have not done a freshwater dip yet, I was thinking of doing that tomorrow if you think it would help.


-Brian
 
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My apologies if it has been covered and I missed it looking thru this thread but is there a difference between copper and CP? Seems they are referenced as distinct things. Also, is CP just short for Copper Pro?
Copper is a generic term. I prefer to use a chelated form of copper "copper power". Be careful though as each type of copper may carry a different therapeutic range.

CP can be seen in this thread some, and I think even some members refer to copper power as CP. Which can be confusing because generally if you see CP used around the forum it refers to chloroquine phosphate. Which is a copper alternative. More difficult to obtain as it required a vet written RX and there is not a test kit to monitor the level. There are also fish that do not tolerate chloroquine. Anthias, Blue hippos, and most wrasses.
 
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Well, I saw today that the fish has stringy white poop so looks like it at least has internal parasite of some sort still? Like I said, I did 14 days of GC/Focus while they were in Copper Power tank.

I guess I will dose the water with the second round of General Cure in the water tonight and then start with another round of 14 days of General Cure/Focus in the fish food? What do you guys think? I have not done a freshwater dip yet, I was thinking of doing that tomorrow if you think it would help.


-Brian
FW dip won't do anything for intestinal parasites/worms.

Sometimes you can get a strain that will take three full weeks of feeding food soaked GC to erradicate. If the white stringy poop still exists after 3 weeks then the alternative is to feed food saoked with fenbendazole.
 

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FW dip won't do anything for intestinal parasites/worms.

Sometimes you can get a strain that will take three full weeks of feeding food soaked GC to erradicate. If the white stringy poop still exists after 3 weeks then the alternative is to feed food saoked with fenbendazole.

These were going to be my first batch of fish I was going to move to my display tank next week. After doing 2 weeks of copper power and two weeks in General Cure in the water, would it be safe to move these fish into the display tank and finished feeding the 2nd and 3rd week of GC soaked food in there? Or is there a risk of of contaminating the display tank with parasites/worms? I have another few fish that I just started on copper power in my first QT tank tonight and plan on moving them into the clownfish's current tank in two weeks.

-Brian
 

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Copper is a generic term. I prefer to use a chelated form of copper "copper power". Be careful though as each type of copper may carry a different therapeutic range.

CP can be seen in this thread some, and I think even some members refer to copper power as CP. Which can be confusing because generally if you see CP used around the forum it refers to chloroquine phosphate. Which is a copper alternative. More difficult to obtain as it required a vet written RX and there is not a test kit to monitor the level. There are also fish that do not tolerate chloroquine. Anthias, Blue hippos, and most wrasses.
Thanks for clarifying!
 

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Admittedly, I didn’t read every post on this thread so forgive me for asking. I have a fuzzy dwarf lionfish arriving soon. I’d like to know if I should follow the same QT protocol or if I need to make major adjustments. My normal QT procedure is dosing with CopperSafe at 1.5-ish ppm and General Cure for 4-weeks. I haven’t had any fish loss during QT so far. I’ve read that lionfish can’t tolerate copper. Does that also apply to chelated copper and if so, can I still use CS at lower dosage?
 

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10 Days in Copper Power treatment. I have been dosing GC and Metro. 2nd dose of GC tomorrow and I noticed this around this mouth. He's been eating pellets with GC and Focus. What should I do?
371c0913a3a49682f40459b70b7da8a5.jpg
 

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10 Days in Copper Power treatment. I have been dosing GC and Metro. 2nd dose of GC tomorrow and I noticed this around this mouth. He's been eating pellets with GC and Focus. What should I do?
371c0913a3a49682f40459b70b7da8a5.jpg
First clean your glass:):):):):)... no just kidding. a couple more pictures might help - is it getting better worse - did it just happen overnight - could be an injury? do yo u have more than one clown? I've seen this when clowns (like cichlids) lock mouths - but I honestly dont know what would cause it - but there are far more experts here than I - @Humblefish
 

gonefishin

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First clean your glass:):):):):)... no just kidding. a couple more pictures might help - is it getting better worse - did it just happen overnight - could be an injury? do yo u have more than one clown? I've seen this when clowns (like cichlids) lock mouths - but I honestly dont know what would cause it - but there are far more experts here than I - @Humblefish
Saw it a couple days ago. Think it's getting bigger
dab470b85cde0766eb51603b6392ad89.jpg
b9bfd2374989de8471bdb0b26c2eef8a.jpg
 
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