I would be interested in if you have done an N-DOC test .
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I would be interested in if you have done an N-DOC test .
Return pumps are just merely for the sump and shouldn't be equated into display turn over.
I would suggest a pair of powerheads to get at least 50x turnover and it would help with the oxygen depletion if you use chemiclean.
The sand rinse thread has more cyano cures than any thread on the web. Why would you consider options that don't come from 98% documented cures with before and after pics for fifty months straight
I would say you still need more, are you running that return full bore? Because that is a lot of sump turn over, way excessive actually. But even including that and those two HOB, it isn't a ton of tank turnover.I also have a pair of AquaClear 70s at the back. They are rated up to 70 GPH. Times 2 (as I have a pair).
I define turnover as the number of times total volume passes through the sump and filters combined. I'm not sure how you not count the turnover via the return pump?
How is this done?
Do they give you corrective actions with this test?https://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/reefing/N--Doc
You can see on my test below I have way to much Dissolved Organic Nitrogen (TNb) in my system. There is no way to test for it other than the Triton test right now. I admit it's kind'a spendy. Basically, even though you don't have much testable NO3 you may have a huge amount of other pollution in your tank that has yet to decompose fully. In theory, by decreasing your feedings and increasing your NO3 and PO4 your cyano should go away. It's surviving by utilizing the organic nutrients and outcompeting the "good bacteria". I was able to beat Dinos using this strategy. Full disclosure: I still struggle to fully eliminate cyano but it is definitely less pronounced in my tank. I have a feeling that when my coral colonies become more mature I will have less problems with cyano because they also compete for organic nutrients.
Do they give you corrective actions with this test?
Did they offer any advice to you other than water changes? I'm a big fan of the ICP testing, trying to figure out the value of their new nutrient testing.Yes, some of it is automated. If that doesn't answer your questions then you can send them an email and get more personalized support.
Did they offer any advice to you other than water changes? I'm a big fan of the ICP testing, trying to figure out the value of their new nutrient testing.
. . . I know for a fact that my tank exports NO3 and PO4 super efficiently. I can pour food in and still not see a rise in those parameters. That's what got me in trouble with Dinos and Cyano. My tank is weak at converting fish poop into NO3 and PO4 so Dinos and Cyano take over when I overfeed.
Cyano is part of the game once everything is balanced you'll beat it just be patient and keep up on your maintenance and water changes.
Sorry you are still having problems!
What CuC members do you have that will stir up and/or clean your sandbed for you?
I get my CuC from John at Reefcleaners.org but you can do a build your own through many common sites that sell fish.Ok... this is where I should get blasted... and rightfully so...
I don't have a CUC. The last member of my CUC (emerald crab) died a few months ago, and I never replaced them. I do have a few snails, but not nearly enough to do the work a CUC does.
I am sorry that I managed to eradicate bristle worms from my tank. They were great for churning sand.
Can anyone provide a link to a CUC package that they recommend?
I get my CuC from John at Reefcleaners.org but you can do a build your own through many common sites that sell fish.
I like to get a snails only package and then add blue legged dwarf hermits. Some hermits can cause issues so I don't want a random group.
I actually just placed an order from him that is shipping today with 90 snails, 20 hermits and a few other things. I figure I'm down to around 100-140 snails so it was time to for a refresh order.