My Shopping List... whats missing?

Johnd651

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Im just making a very general shopping list, trying to plan and budget out for the next build. I have looked through the Reef Setup Thread/Article, but feel like I am still missing something (other then livestock). What am I missing? It is all very generic for now.

Tank and Stand
117 gallonTank (42*36*18)
Stand
40BSump
Sump Baffle Kit
300WHeater
-Controller
Skimmer
Lighting
Tank Light
Sump Light
Rock and Sand
Sand
Live Rock
Dry Rock
-Epoxy
Shelf Rock
Foundation Rock
Pumps
Return
Wave
Water
RODI
-RODI Pump
-Pressure Gauge
Salt
Testing Equipment
Dual Reactor
-GFO
-Carbon
Mixing Station
Plumbing
Pump
Container
 
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Sailfin11

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It looks pretty good. I do have a few suggestions though. For heating, I would recommend getting 2x 150 watts rather than one large one. This gives you an extra layer of redundancy. Along with a temperature controller like the InkBird for $30, you'll have a solid system for keeping your tank a consistent temp. Also, I would only use a light in your sump if you're planning to do use a refugium. I'd suggest picking up some black Rustoleum paint for the back of your tank and for the 40B sump. Best of luck with the new tank!
 

cvrle1

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I would add the following:

- Since I havent seen a 36" wide tank, I am guessing this will be height. If so, that is a really tall tank to maintain and get to the bottom of.
- Mesh top/cover for tank, so that fish dont jump out (they will without it)
- I dont think there is need for LR, dry rock, shelf rock and foundation. You can get foundation and shelf made from dry rock with hammer, chisel, saw and few other tools and time.
- You can use acrylic rods with epoxy to glue rock pieces together.
- As mentioned above, 2 smaller heaters better than 1 big one. With that in mind I will use 2 300W Eheim Jagers on my 110. Add controller like Inkbid or Ranco for each heater
- Pass on GFO, not much need for it. Maybe get it as one of the very last pieces of equipment when you get all other items, fish, corals and so on.
 
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Johnd651

Johnd651

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It looks pretty good. I do have a few suggestions though. For heating, I would recommend getting 2x 150 watts rather than one large one. This gives you an extra layer of redundancy. Along with a temperature controller like the InkBird for $30, you'll have a solid system for keeping your tank a consistent temp. Also, I would only use a light in your sump if you're planning to do use a refugium. I'd suggest picking up some black Rustoleum paint for the back of your tank and for the 40B sump. Best of luck with the new tank!
I was thinking 2x 300W since it would be a total of about 160 gallons. I do want to do a fuge, and as for the back I was going to try and use something like black tint or vinyl so it can wrapped around both side and back, and easier to remove, if ever.
 
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Johnd651

Johnd651

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I would add the following:

- Since I havent seen a 36" wide tank, I am guessing this will be height. If so, that is a really tall tank to maintain and get to the bottom of.
- Mesh top/cover for tank, so that fish dont jump out (they will without it)
- I dont think there is need for LR, dry rock, shelf rock and foundation. You can get foundation and shelf made from dry rock with hammer, chisel, saw and few other tools and time.
- You can use acrylic rods with epoxy to glue rock pieces together.
- As mentioned above, 2 smaller heaters better than 1 big one. With that in mind I will use 2 300W Eheim Jagers on my 110. Add controller like Inkbid or Ranco for each heater
- Pass on GFO, not much need for it. Maybe get it as one of the very last pieces of equipment when you get all other items, fish, corals and so on.
It will be 42d x 36w x 18h.

I was thinking glass covers...screen better?

As for GFO, should I still get a dual reactor (with one empty) or just 2 separate ones?
 

Sailfin11

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Definitely do a screen top. Glass tops will get foggy/wet and prevent light from going through. I forgot to mention before, but an ATO is also a must. A single reactor would be OK because you can use carbon and GFO as a mix.
 
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cvrle1

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Definitely do a screen top. Glass tops will get foggy/wet and prevent light from going through. I forgot to mention before, but an ATO is also a must. A single reactor would be OK because you can use carbon and GFO as a mix.
ATO isnt a must, just like skimmer and sump isnt a must either. It may make things a bit easier but plenty of big tanks out there are running with lots of success without ATO. For really small tank I may agree.

OP, as stated I would go with screen/mesh.
 
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Johnd651

Johnd651

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ATO isnt a must, just like skimmer and sump isnt a must either. It may make things a bit easier but plenty of big tanks out there are running with lots of success without ATO. For really small tank I may agree.

OP, as stated I would go with screen/mesh.
Just curious, since I see many sump setups, without a sump would it just be HOB equipment?
 
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Johnd651

Johnd651

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You might want to put dosing pumps on your list as well. Once you start putting stony corals in the tank, they make life much easier and keep the tank much more stable
I am thinking about dosing pumps, Neptune controller, as an upgrade after the initial cycle and livestock.
 

45ZoaGarden

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Good thing there are no salinty swings in nature. You know, things like water evaporation in a lagoon, or freshwater runoff. I wonder what salinity this is at...

1575416577728.png
That is low tide at its peak. A 30 minute shift. Just like our water changes. Once the tide comes back up after low tide it is back to normal. When salinity in our tanks drops, it’s low for hours to days to a week. Without an ato, it would fall and stay like that for awhile. Think about it. A 30 minute low tide is a lot different then a large salinity fluctuations that are NEVER the same because of the lack of an ato.
 

cvrle1

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...When salinity in our tanks drops, it’s low for hours to days to a week. Without an ato, it would fall and stay like that for awhile. Think about it. A 30 minute low tide is a lot different then a large salinity fluctuations that are NEVER the same because of the lack of an ato.
This again has nothing to do with ATO, or lack of, but poor maintenance of a reefer. I didnt run ATO on my 33g, but my salinity fluctuations were always kept to mininum. I made sure I topped off manually every day, or few days as needed. If evaporated water isnt topped of for a week, that has absolutely nothing to do with lack of ATO, but laziness of reefer. Hell, if person cant be bothered to top off evaporated water for a week, what makes you think they would fill up their ATO reservoir when it goes dry? Empty ATO reservoir kinda renders ATO useless no?

Either way, enough of thread jacking. Sorry OP.
 

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