My sps die in 2 weeks

Discussion in 'General SPS Discussion' started by Rixar, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. Daddy-o

    Daddy-o Well-Known Member R2R Supporter

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    Again, have you tested for chlorine/chloramine?
     

  2. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for all your advice guys, I will answer your questions, I apologize if I do not use English well.


    I bring the coral straight home, dip the bag inside my aquarium to equalize the temperature, then I shed the coral in a large glass cup with some of my water from the bag and water from my aquarium, I deparasite the coral using CORAL RX, I observe well the bases that do not bring eggs of parasites, I rinse the coral with clean water of the aquarium and I leave it in the lower part of the aquarium for 1 week so that it adapts to my light (in the bottom of the tank I have About 80 par)

    I have looked for plagues but I do not have plagues in sight, only algae bubble that do not affect coral

    The truth is that I do not know the time that has passed between one and another, maybe days or weeks, I have many fans near home who give me some frags to go and prove that such is going, Currently more than 2 weeks since the last drop, I will not put anything else until my algae have not been cleaned and the system has been quiet, I will leave it 2 months to rest without adding anything else, just take my big fish so that Go to their new home and nutrients can stabilize.


    I have a lot of turbo snails, they are working well, but my rocks have a weird shape with a small base and it seems to make them afraid to climb on them jajaja

    Last week the addition of vinegar begins, my skimmer has begun to foam a lot of brown mud.


    I am with you, lately I have made too many adjustments and I have not let the tank rest, I will remove the blades of marine pure, to eliminate possible traces of aluminum, I will clean the rock and crystals of seaweed and I will let it rest for about 4 weeks , Then I will add a layer of substrate again and I will return to let it rest another 4 weeks.

    As soon as I have new news I will inform you in case anyone can help my experience, I have a plan of action, according to the advice I have received, I will go putting photos of the whole process.

    Sorry for not answering your previous post, I did not see him.

    The truth is that I have not measured my chlorine values, I have never measured chlorine in my life, I have a 6-part RO-DI equipment, the equipment has the filters in good shape, should not I let the chlorine pass?



    Greetings to all
     
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  3. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    These are my last analyzes, a few weeks ago.
    As you can see there are some high metals, but the quantities are very small, I do not think this can be cause for rapid death, after this test I changed 15 gallons of water, for at least 5 weeks, I also started to add a few drops Of iodine and I added a little cuprisorb. Even so, they do not seem to me like values for quick death.

    Sin título.png
     
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  4. seamonster

    seamonster Member

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    You can have a parasite in that eats the spa corals, like sps eating nudibranchs. Get a six line wrasse, yellow or melenarus. I had these in my tank.... thank god it was only on one coral...

    IMG_1998.JPG
     
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  5. wish

    wish Well-Known Member R2R Supporter

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    Your salinity is 35ppt? I believe most vender keep 24-26ppt. If this is the case
    your sps will be very stressed.... 10 ppt swing in 2 to 3 hr drip and into your qt tank or main tank.
     
  6. Mattrg02

    Mattrg02 Well-Known Member

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    You've got ppt and SG confused. 35ppt is SG of 1.026
     
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  7. CodyRVA

    CodyRVA Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Agreed, but if you're seeking a fish for a specific task, always confirm the need before buying.
     
  8. Mattrg02

    Mattrg02 Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't use a fish to deal with a parasite, I'd use a good dip.
     
  9. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    I am sure that my tank has no parasites, I will inform soon, now there is a hard work to do, I will keep you informed with photos.

    Here are the steps that I will carry out:

    - My big fish leave on Saturday at their new 150 gallon home

    - All my soft corals, snails and my little fish are going to pass to my quarantine aquarium.

    - I'm going to brush all the rock out of the tank.

    "I'm going to scratch the seaweed from my back glass and from the bottom.

    - I am going to turn off my lights for 2 months while the nutrients stabilize and the algae die from the lack of light.

    "Every week I'm going to blow my rocks with a water pump, to remove the remains of dead algae.

    - after 4 weeks, I will add substrate again, I will use the red sea reef base pink

    - In the whole process I will make big changes of water, in case some metal could have in the tank

    Later I will begin slowly with my period of light, and I will add my fish and corals from the quarantine tank, I'll start from scratch and make things better with my nutrients.
    If after all this, my new sps do not live, definitely the tank is cursed jajajaja
     
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  10. Bouncingsoul39

    Bouncingsoul39 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good plan. May I suggest keeping a small damsel or other small hardy fish or two in the tank to keep it cycled? If there is no ammonia source for two months the bacteria population will die off and you may need to re-cycle the tank all over again later. For what you are dealing with here there isn't much reason to not keep the tank cycled and established while you do these steps. Did you get a reactor to run your carbon in? Last thing, when you are ready to try your SPS once again consider starting with the more hardy easy to keep ones like a Montipora or Birdsnest before you get into the Acroporas. Make sure to start the frags down lower in the tank to acclimate to your lighting before moving them up on the rocks as well. Good luck!
     
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  11. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the advice. I would not like to leave my fish 2 months in the dark, when my nitrates fall to 0, could you add some coral food like zooplacton and seachem fitolacton?
     
  12. Bouncingsoul39

    Bouncingsoul39 Well-Known Member

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    If there is ambient light from a window, or a lamp on at some point in the day, the fish will not truly be in darkness, they would be fine. Of course, it's up to you. Yes, you could add some other source of ammonia like a couple pieces of flake food every 2-3 days, small piece of shrimp flesh or fish flesh once a week. I'm not sure a few drops of those bottled coral foods would be enough to keep the bacteria going. You'll want to just keep an eye on the amount of whatever you add to make sure it's not too much.
     
  13. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    I'll cover the crystals with opaque black plastic, I'll add some food to keep the bacteria, thanks for the tips
     
  14. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    I have news!

    - Big fish are already in their new home.

    - The clown is in my quarantine aquarium.

    - the crhomis I could not capture them, they are very fast, they will stay in the tank in the dark, I will feed them daily and turn on the lights for a while.

    - I brushed the rocks.

    - and I've already covered the tank with plastic. How long do you think the remaining small Valon algae can withstand the darkness?

    IMG-20170820-WA0006.jpeg
     
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  15. Bret Brinkmann

    Bret Brinkmann Well-Known Member

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    I have had a ton of algae growth in my tank with three hydnophoras which were growing great and very colorful. I have never had issues with it affecting them. My GSP does seem to close-up if I wait to long between cleaning the glass and hair algae away though. I feel that people go to extremes over algae. It's not pretty but it's not something worth going through all the trouble people do to get rid of it.

    Daddy-o - What will chlorine/chloramine do to SPS and is there a kit for testing for it?

    Rixar - The Triton test shows elevated V and Mo (Vanadium and Molybdenum) which are alloy elements in many steels. I don't know if it is enough to cause your issue but it does suggest an equipment issue is starting to occur. Vanadium can also be used as a finish coating to help prevent rust. Perhaps the equipment is not worn enough to cause a shock or effect the performance but it does suggest a higher rate of wear. You could run a pump in a container with new saltwater all by itself and after a week or so send out a water sample to get tested. I know the equipment looks okay, but sometimes you can't tell by looking. If I was in your situation I would probably look into the chloramine thing Daddy-o suggested first. It's probably cheaper and faster to test for.
     
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  16. Daddy-o

    Daddy-o Well-Known Member R2R Supporter

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    I couldn't tell you, I live close enough to the Pacific Ocean that all of my saltwater tanks are filled with filtered seawater. Just the way Mother Nature intended it to be, without any mixing.
    Cheers! Mark
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
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  17. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys This is the result of the steps followed, thanks for your advice.
     
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  18. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    I added a seriatopora cutting, to see that this goes in a few weeks

    20171005_203238.jpg
     
  19. tripdad

    tripdad Well-Known Member

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    I haven't had the time to check every single post just yet but one thing pops out, the reactor. Do NOT fluidize carbon, it's great to run it in a reactor but keep it still, not fluidized. Carbon can release very small particles that can be a problem for fish if tumbled. A gentle movement won't hurt but don't tumble it.
     
  20. Rixar

    Rixar Well-Known Member

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    20171005_231705.jpg el carbono se ha colocado en un reactor de flujo con una bomba pequeña, el carbono no se mueve, no se frota ni se desgasta, gracias por el consejo.
    Otra foto
     
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