Need a some thoughts from others more experienced

[bigjonbird]

Sorry something wrong I pushed the wrong button. I would still use valves on the pump to control flow. It appears they are using the full flow of the T and it is using the full hole for a siphon break

I'd worry about getting it up and running. You can work on quieting it down later.

Can you post a brief video? I would like to hear what the overflow sounds like.

So I got it figured out for the most part. I appreciate everyone's help! Thank you.

I attached some pictures of the setup. The only thing I don't like is that if there is a full clog on the main drain line then I don't think the emergency line could handle the full flow because I had to put a cap on it to make it quite and it should have a vent on the back side but it does not. I am going to try to add one though and it just might be enough.

It is fairly quite, but my cheap Hygger AC pumps are a little loud. Oh well, I will get some DC pumps once I get this thing dialed in and get some more money. Building this cost me much more than I thought. It would.

I learned a ton which was great. The rim had to be taller where the water comes in because it rises more than I thought after it enters the sump. You can see the 3d printed cap in the picture as well that helped silence the flow.

 

[bigjonbird]

Here is an overall pic. I love how it turned out.

 

[mfinn]

So I got it figured out for the most part. I appreciate everyone's help! Thank you.

I attached some pictures of the setup. The only thing I don't like is that if there is a full clog on the main drain line then I don't think the emergency line could handle the full flow because I had to put a cap on it to make it quite and it should have a vent on the back side but it does not. I am going to try to add one though and it just might be enough.

It is fairly quite, but my cheap Hygger AC pumps are a little loud. Oh well, I will get some DC pumps once I get this thing dialed in and get some more money. Building this cost me much more than I thought. It would.

I learned a ton which was great. The rim had to be taller where the water comes in because it rises more than I thought after it enters the sump. You can see the 3d printed cap in the picture as well that helped silence the flow.

A couple thoughts.

It will always cost more than you figured. That is just the nature of the hobby.
You are worried the emergency drain won't handle the flow if the main drain clogs.
But with a cap on it, it won't handle any of it.
One thing I forgot about was adding a strainer on the main drain.
That will keep a snail from making that instant clog event.


With the herbie drain system, when it gets out of balance, the water starts trickling into the emergency drain and you hear it. Either in the drain pipe itself, or down in the sump with water falling.
I've never seen a main drain suddenly clog shut fast.
It generally starts getting plugged with algae growth and then you lose the balance and water enters the emergency drain, then you hear that happening.

 

[mfinn]

Here is an overall pic. I love how it turned out.

It does look nice.

 

[bristleworm]

I have a different question, is the box 3d printed?

 

[bigjonbird]

A couple thoughts.

It will always cost more than you figured. That is just the nature of the hobby.
You are worried the emergency drain won't handle the flow if the main drain clogs.
But with a cap on it, it won't handle any of it.
One thing I forgot about was adding a strainer on the main drain.
That will keep a snail from making that instant clog event.


With the herbie drain system, when it gets out of balance, the water starts trickling into the emergency drain and you hear it. Either in the drain pipe itself, or down in the sump with water falling.
I've never seen a main drain suddenly clog shut fast.
It generally starts getting plugged with algae growth and then you lose the balance and water enters the emergency drain, then you hear that happening.

Thank you.

I started printing a strainer just a few minutes ago.

 

[bigjonbird]

I have a different question, is the box 3d printed?

The overflow box is 3d printed

 

[bristleworm]

The overflow box is 3d printed

What material did you use?

 

[bigjonbird]

What material did you use?

A couple thoughts.

It will always cost more than you figured. That is just the nature of the hobby.
You are worried the emergency drain won't handle the flow if the main drain clogs.
But with a cap on it, it won't handle any of it.
One thing I forgot about was adding a strainer on the main drain.
That will keep a snail from making that instant clog event.


With the herbie drain system, when it gets out of balance, the water starts trickling into the emergency drain and you hear it. Either in the drain pipe itself, or down in the sump with water falling.
I've never seen a main drain suddenly clog shut fast.
It generally starts getting plugged with algae growth and then you lose the balance and water enters the emergency drain, then you hear that happening.

So I have a small leak that developed on one of the bulkheads from the overflow box. I am almost positive that this is because the hole drilled for the bulk head is for a schedule 80 bulkhead but I decided to use a schedule 40 bulkhead which is slightly smaller. Only about 80% of the gasket is making contact.

I am going to drain the tank down and try to silicone it. If this doesn't work then I have to replace multiple valves and at that point I might as well spend another $150 to get a new 40breeder tank and completely redo this the right way with a bean animal overflow box.

Since this is just turning something I just keep throwing money at and really discouraging as a whole. I am trying to stay positive about the hobby. Very likely I just find a cheap AIO on FB Marketplace and transfer my rock/fish to that and just take the loss.

 

[bristleworm]

I would not trust any 3d printed part in any material that needs to be water tight.

Even if you use petg the layer lines can wick water.

 

[bigjonbird]

I would not trust any 3d printed part in any material that needs to be water tight.

Even if you use petg the layer lines can wick water.

I printed it with 100% infill and sanded it flat to avoid this but definitely still could be the problem.

 

[mfinn]

So I have a small leak that developed on one of the bulkheads from the overflow box. I am almost positive that this is because the hole drilled for the bulk head is for a schedule 80 bulkhead but I decided to use a schedule 40 bulkhead which is slightly smaller. Only about 80% of the gasket is making contact.

I am going to drain the tank down and try to silicone it. If this doesn't work then I have to replace multiple valves and at that point I might as well spend another $150 to get a new 40breeder tank and completely redo this the right way with a bean animal overflow box.

I'd try to find the right bulkhead first, Instead of throwing it away, isn't there enough straight pipe you can use a coupling on? Save the valves and just join the new with the old using a pvc coupling?


I know I will catch heat for this, but when I've installed bulkheads that seem small compared to the hole drilled, I do use silicone, but not on the gasket. I put the bulkhead through the hole and fill the gap with silicone. I make sure I don't use too much silicone and use enough to fill the gap. Then tighten up the bulkhead and don't touch it for 48 hours.

 

[Freenow54]

At a risk . I would Ask UncommonSense directly Do a search by member in the " Search section . He advised me not to silicon as Insurance . I was going to post and ask about using Plumbing Valve Grease as I have a real problem with doing it dry. If this is Just an over flow box it would be Easy to try different things. He even suggested a certain make of Bulkhead. I will leave it up to you. I am not going to start assembling mine until Winter . At that time I will be consulting him. He builds His own Tanks , and helped me all the way Through building my own Sump , drilling ect.