New cube build - NUVO INT 50

typhune

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Good evening folks! This is the first post of many, of my build of a NUVO INT 50. My previous reef experience was in the mid-2000s with a JBJ Nano Cube LED with a custom built algae scrubber. I learned quite a bit, but unfortunately I had to tear down the tank and we have since moved two states. Now I have a bit more disposable income and time to stand up another tank. So, here's the plan... Everything is ordered and delivering in pieces:

  • NUVO INT 50 w/ APS stand - love the fact that it's aluminum. The JBJ stand was just garbage MDF.
  • Marco Dry rock & Caribsea special grade reef sand - Last time I started with live rock, trying the dry rock route this time to keep aptasia free.
  • Radion XR15BLUE - seemed like a no brainer
  • Neptune APEX - I had a reef keeper on the last system which was excellent, but now, wifi, apps, probes, etc. The trident looks cool, we'll see if it's necessary.
  • Neptune COR 15 return pump - debated the Vortech, but in the end, it's APEX controllable
  • Neptune return pump Flow meter
  • @home RODI unit (last time I relied on LFS water)
  • 2 Eheim heaters
  • Vortech MP40QD powerhead - debating whether or not to flash the WVM firmware, more to come.
  • FIJI Cube Fiji-15 Sump- Great little sump for what I was trying to do. Two inputs, silent overflow, etc.
  • Santa Monica HOG3x or 3xx scrubber - In my JBJ with SPS, LPS, fish, I eventually ran nothing but filter floss and a custom built algae scrubber. I plan on trying this again. After running this for 2 years, I'm a complete convert. Trying to keep everything in homeostasis. Plus. zero water changes makes me happy.
  • Cyberpower UPS for running the system plus the battery backup for the powerhead.
  • ATO- Haven't decided yet, probably will stick with the Neptune

I'm also doing the rockscape with broken up Marco rock, thin superglue and powdered Calcium Carbonate. So far so good. The inspiration is from MarineCost https://www.youtube.com/c/MarineCost/videos

Most of the parts are in, but the INT 50 hasn't been delivered yet. Can't wait to get started on the plumbing, leakiest, and get the rock cycling.

Also, appreciate all the others that came before me with this build @mark7x77 and @DARTHROB .
 

xxkenny90xx

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Sounds like a solid set up, looking forward to some pictures!
 
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typhune

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Aquarium arrived Friday. Managed to get the stand together
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However, I can't continue this part of the build since the Fiji-15 sump I ordered had incorrectly listed the return pump chamber dimensions on their website. I could order a different pump or swap sumps, and chose to swap sumps. Ordered a TideLine Sump 20"x18" which is actually slightly better for me in that it has a larger skimmer (scrubber) chamber and 3 inputs.

I also did the rock work, which I think turned out fairly well using the superglue / argagonite / calcium carbonate method.
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typhune

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nice work with the aquascape. It’s looks great! Do you mind me asking what the width and depth measurements of your tank is?
Exterior is all available on the innovative marine site

Interior is 22 3/4" cube, with 17 5/8" front to back to the overflow
19 1/4" deep, 17 1/2" from bottom of the tank to the overflow
 
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typhune

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The tideline sump was backordered / slow, so I confirmed dimensions on the Fiji sump 20, and ordered that one. Finally came in, looks really nice for what I need. Double intake with the quiet drains, etc. Most of the plumbing is in, and will be filling up / leak testing this weekend.
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typhune

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Rock, sand, and equipment are all in...

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Decided to try cycling with raw shrimp this time. Last time I used live rock from a friend, this time I want to take my time to not bring in any of the nasty critters that usually come in. The waiting game begins...
 
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typhune

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Things are coming along nicely on the cycle. Ammonia is high, nitrites started to kick in 2 days ago, and nitrates low atm. Not much to see, but putting in a picture anyway.


IMG_0457.jpeg



This weekend I'm going to redo the electronics and pull them out of the cabinet. Decided to buy a narrow cabinet from Ikea to put next to the aquarium, should look nice and clean.
 

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I was going to say you dodged a bullet getting a different sump over the Fiji but I see you ended up with the same one I have. I hate it. I'm going to drill some holes between the useless refugium section and the return chamber which is way too small. Clogging socks or a filled skimmer cup causes the ATO to trigger constantly. I don't use the socks anymore now. I initially was running the water level higher like yours is, but the depth at which these IM tanks have the return hole drilled caused more back siphoning than I was comfortable with, filling the sump withing a couple of inches of capacity. I have since dropped the water level as low as it will go, removing the blue gates completely. Now it fills to about half full when the return is off which I'm much more comfortable with.

That's cool your stand came with three cross braces to support the sump. That must be a new thing as mine only came with two.
 
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typhune

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I was going to say you dodged a bullet getting a different sump over the Fiji but I see you ended up with the same one I have. I hate it. I'm going to drill some holes between the useless refugium section and the return chamber which is way too small. Clogging socks or a filled skimmer cup causes the ATO to trigger constantly. I don't use the socks anymore now. I initially was running the water level higher like yours is, but the depth at which these IM tanks have the return hole drilled caused more back siphoning than I was comfortable with, filling the sump withing a couple of inches of capacity. I have since dropped the water level as low as it will go, removing the blue gates completely. Now it fills to about half full when the return is off which I'm much more comfortable with.

That's cool your stand came with three cross braces to support the sump. That must be a new thing as mine only came with two.

I hear you. It's far from perfect... It's been a bit of trial and error, but I've tweaked a bit now to where I think I have it running very smoothly. Had to pickup some grommets from the local hardware store to get the probes to fit right.

First, I only had the socks in while the sand / rock dust was settling. Otherwise, I don't use them anyway. Now I have the tray in, and found some coarse sponge from the LPS that I put in the tray just to quiet the overflow, but otherwise no real purpose there. Figured I might use the tray for any sort of bio media flow-through in the future if needed.

Second, in the fuge I just have dry rock rubble leftover from my scape. Bunch of golfball size. Yea, useless as a refugium, but I didn't care, I'm going with ATS anyway.

Third, my ATO is in the fuge section with the float valve in the return pump. Seems to fit well

Fourth, I have the return nozzles right at the surface level flowing up. From what I've read, this increases ph and oxygenation by disturbing the surface. Backsiphoning is minimal. I also have the Neptune gear, so "off" is about 10%, which is a very low flow. Even when power drops, it only raises about 2-2.5" this way.

I'm still playing with it... I'm going to change out the heaters for smaller, and get the HOG scrubber installed soon. Then I'll be playing with water levels again.

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Midrats

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Nice. I just cut the bottoms off of the mesh socks that came with it to quiet any splashing, works like a charm. I used the tray for a while, I like the concept, but with a 6" water depth it was too loud. I have my return right at the surface too, Loc Line just makes me nervous as it isn't completely water tight.
 
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typhune

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Nice. I just cut the bottoms off of the mesh socks that came with it to quiet any splashing, works like a charm. I used the tray for a while, I like the concept, but with a 6" water depth it was too loud. I have my return right at the surface too, Loc Line just makes me nervous as it isn't completely water tight.
didn't think about cutting the socks, not a bad idea. And yea, loc-line is not truly water tight, true... but with salt creep and a UPS, I think I have enough time to catch it before it floods.
 
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typhune

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Still chugging along though the cycle. Nitrites are High, Nitrates are high, things are progressing along nicely. Took some time to work on the electronics cabinet, which turned out fairly nice if I do say so myself...

Used an Ikea Besta cabinet as the base, drilled a Buch of holes and then a hinged "whiteboard/Blackboard" from Lowes for the mounts. Also used 1' square dowels for the spacers on the back. Not overly clean, but no one will see that part.
Prior to install
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Starting the wiring. Notice the EMF "cage" for the Salinity probe. Seems to be rock solid now.
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And done. Little messy on the cording by the UPS, but I'm going to get a door for the Besta as well.
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Almost done.
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ATO pump in the closet needs a longer wire... waiting for that one to finish up.
 
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typhune

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Nitrites have come down to near zero. For those of you who think a tank cycle "stalls" due to high nitrites, don't sweat it. Mine were off the charts high, and I decided to ride it out sans water change. All I did was raise the tank temp up to closer to 79/80, where apparently nitrifying bacteria thrive.

Last night, I added some fritz 9 and a few MarinePure balls in the sump filter hard "socks" as well as some Brightwell sport bio blocks to the fuge. the fuge in the fuji is pretty much worthless, so I'm hoping the bio blocks act as a low oxygen denitrifying base.

No growth on the ATS yet.

Diatoms are slowly dying, no algae yet.

Dosed another 1/4tsp of Fritz ammonia to see if I can turn it around in 24 hours.
 
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typhune

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Also received a 28gallon ATO tank for fresh RODI from Advanced Acrylics. High quality 3/8" thick. Should get me through near a month of ATO. Tell him I sent you.

Yea, I'm lazy, and plan on having another larger tank at some point.

IMG_0541.jpeg
 

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I’m getting ready to plumb mine. Did you end up glueing the pipes to the bulkheads in the overflow box? And did you leave them at the lengths that they came out of the box?
 

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