New filters RO/DI

Blue Spot Octopus

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Hello, I have an upgraded RO/DI machine from Speactrapure, I used the Water Saver Upgrade kit 150 gph, so I bought a bunch of filters from Marindepot from Speactrapure. When do I know when it is the right time to change the filters? Is there a way to know if only one thing needs to be replaced or just do them all at the same time? Thanks in advance
 

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Hello, I have an upgraded RO/DI machine from Speactrapure, I used the Water Saver Upgrade kit 150 gph, so I bought a bunch of filters from Marindepot from Speactrapure. When do I know when it is the right time to change the filters? Is there a way to know if only one thing needs to be replaced or just do them all at the same time? Thanks in advance
they usually state an estimated time the canisters can last on the packaging but it really all depends how often you use it and how often it’s flushed out. a tds meter would be useful to check when it’s time for a replacement or by the change of color in the chambers if they’re transparent
 

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I have a small ro-di and it says to change charcoal and sediment filters at 400 gallons of make up water ro membrane 2 years di filter is only good for100 gallons make up water. That is where the tds meter comes in . Mine reads 0 up to the100 gallon mark then it will show 12 tds that is when I change di filter after 4 di filters I change carbon and sediment filter but your is a bigger filter it will probably last longer than mine.
 

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Filter replacement depends on what is in your incoming water and how much water you make with the filter. It isn't really time based. I replace the DI resin when the output water TDS goes over zero and the sed filter and carbon block yearly. You may need to do it more or less often.
Membranes last years. I change mine every 2 years mostly because it makes me feel better and not because they really need it
 

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Hello, I have an upgraded RO/DI machine from Speactrapure, I used the Water Saver Upgrade kit 150 gph, so I bought a bunch of filters from Marindepot from Speactrapure. When do I know when it is the right time to change the filters? Is there a way to know if only one thing needs to be replaced or just do them all at the same time? Thanks in advance

Your filter is basically broken out into 3 parts. You have the prefilters (sediment and carbon filters), ro membrane and the DI filter.

There is a rule of thumb for the prefilters, which is 6 months. That is very "generic" and probably doesn't apply to most people. There are way too many variables that can effect when they need to be changed. The prefilters main job is to protect the RO membrane. The sediment filter takes out larger particles so they don't clog the RO membrane up prematurely. The carbon filter takes out some chemicals but its main duty is removing chlorine so it doesn't get to the RO membrane. Chlorine will eat holes in the membrane. Some people have a pressure gauge before the RO membrane. Once the pressure starts dropping they change the prefilters. Not a perfect method since it doesn't take into account how much chlorine the carbon filter is still capable of removing. Personally over the years I have ended up with a 1 year rule and it works for me. Most people use 5 micron filters but I tend to use the smaller number ones. My sediment filter is the zetazorb from Spectrapure which is .2 microns and it lasts a lot longer. I've been using the same one for over 2 years.

The RO membrane should last 5+ years if you don't let chlorine get to it or you aren't making a ton of water.

DI should be replaced once the water coming out of it starts reading 1. Some people let it creep up higher but you have no idea what is making up the "1" reading.
 
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PeterC99

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Filter replacement depends on what is in your incoming water and how much water you make with the filter. It isn't really time based. I replace the DI resin when the output water TDS goes over zero and the sed filter and carbon block yearly. You may need to do it more or less often.
Membranes last years. I change mine every 2 years mostly because it makes me feel better and not because they really need it
Excellent Post!!!

Replacing RODI filters is NOT a one size fits all. Ned is spot on when saying it depends on 2 things:

1) Quality of your water going into RODI

2) Amount of RODI water that you make
 

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So the RO membranes are the two on top that are horizontal?
Based on the link you gave, yes the 2 on top are the RO membranes. On the bottom going from left to right - sediment, carbon and DI. Looks like that system comes with 1 micron prefilters which are good.
 
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We have a problem Houston, so my handheld HM Digital TDS-3 states my RO/DI water is at 40 YIKES, my in line 2 way TFS meter from HM as well states first read 2 PPM second reads 10. I have already bought all new filters from MD luckily they were on sale. So I guess I should just replace everything, correct?

 
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Here are two pictures of my system,
20210704_112124.jpg
 
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Blue Spot Octopus

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I hope these photos make sense, I am wondering if they are hooked up correctly?
 

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I hope these photos make sense, I am wondering if they are hooked up correctly?
It appears to be but I can't see all the tubing. One thing I noticed is you have what appears to be a manual flow restrictor (knob thing on red tube). If it si, it has to be tuned to get the correct good to bad water ratio coming from the unit. I've never used a dual membrane setup so i don't know what the number should be. On a normal 90gpd unit it is usually 3 bad to 1 good or + or - on the bad side. Also, when you quote the tds numbers of 2 and 10 I don't know which readings those are from. To help diagnose the issue, we need the tds of your tap water and then the water after the RO membranes and after the DI media. It might also be helpful to know the tds of the good water coming from the first ro membrane. That way we could tell if it is working correctly. Normally you should see 98% rejection rate on a single ro membrane. I'm not sure what the norm is for a dual setup because you are pushing the bad water from the first membrane. which is going to be higher than your tap water, thru the second membrane.

Note - you could also have a pressure issue. The lower your pressure the lower the efficiency of the unit. A dual unit really needs pressure up near 70 to be most efficient. Some people run their single units closer to 100psi for greater efficiency.

My RO unit is actually a Kent Marine unit from 1996 and I still have a couple of original parts on it. I'm currently running the 99% rejection rated Spectrapure 90gal ro membrane. My tap water is over 400 tds and my tds after the membrane is 3 to 4 which means I'm running at exactly what it says it should run. Most are guaranteed for 95% but will normally do 98% rejection rate.
 
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Blue Spot Octopus

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My pressure gauge is broken but it is at 70 to 65PSI, I will get the rest of the numbers for you later today. thanks again, everyone.
 
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Blue Spot Octopus

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I figured this one out, and I have ordered the correct filter for the first one, I have all the rest, so I am looking to upgrade my RO/DI so I have a dual DI.
 

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Hello so looing at the picture above, I will replace the first two filters.
So number 1. So I purchased a Chloramine X Carbon Filter. does is go in slot 1?

I hate these ads. A regular carbon filter will remove chloramines. The Chloramine specific filters just do a better job.
 
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Blue Spot Octopus

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Update I replaced all of my filters except the RO membranes they are about 2 years old. I changed how my Inline filter reads, so now I checked my source water IN and between the RO membrane and the DI filters.
So now 360 source water and 10 PPM out of the RO membranes, does this sound about right? I checked my DI with a handheld and it reads 0 PPM.
 
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