New fish quarantine API general cure directions?

@Jay Hemdal just looked at the article thanks. When you say they can take up to14 plus days to hatch this is all temperature dependent correct? At normal aquarium temps 76-78 degrees isn’t it around 8-10 days?

Yes, common wisdom indicates that the eggs will hatch faster in warmer water, but the whole "time to hatch" is a tough variable to get a handle on. I typically use 8 days at 80 degrees as a baseline. Still, that doesn't always work, even when four treatments are used. I should add that in the end, I find that hyposalinity at a specific gravity of 1.012 for 30 days works best against Neo - that catches ALL unhatched eggs. However, that can only be done in a fish-only system, so prazi remains the only treatment choice for mixed fish and invert tanks....
 
Yes, common wisdom indicates that the eggs will hatch faster in warmer water, but the whole "time to hatch" is a tough variable to get a handle on. I typically use 8 days at 80 degrees as a baseline. Still, that doesn't always work, even when four treatments are used. I should add that in the end, I find that hyposalinity at a specific gravity of 1.012 for 30 days works best against Neo - that catches ALL unhatched eggs. However, that can only be done in a fish-only system, so prazi remains the only treatment choice for mixed fish and invert tanks....
@Jay Hemdal from what I have seen pure powdered praziquantal works much better then prazi pro in saltwater. It doesn’t have the issue with the glycol which causes oxygen issues for fish already struggling to breath along with the faster consuming bacteria which thrives much more with Prazi pros liquid formula causing blooms compared to the powder. As well you can overdose the powder version with little to no effects unlike prazi pro where it can cause serious oxygen issues.
 
@Jay Hemdal from what I have seen pure powdered praziquantal works much better then prazi pro in saltwater. It doesn’t have the issue with the glycol which causes oxygen issues for fish already struggling to breath along with the faster consuming bacteria which thrives much more with Prazi pros liquid formula causing blooms compared to the powder. As well you can overdose the powder version with little to no effects unlike prazi pro where it can cause serious oxygen issues.

Correct, using praziquantel with any solvent increases the risk of low oxygen levels due to heterotrophic bacteria blooms - glycol, DMSO or ethanol. With prazipro, additional aeration takes care of that issue. When dissolving it yourself, it’s easy to use too much solvent, and then even additional aeration won’t help.

I prefer using a fine mesh, like a brine shrimp net to disperse it into the water. If you watch closely, you’ll see that once’s the dissolved prazi hits the tank water, it comes right out of solution as a fine suspension anyway…
 
@Jay Hemdal this is the plan I came up with to defeat the so called prazi resistant flukes and biodegradation and eating prazi bacteria. Mainly neobenendina which is hard to eradicate with prazi. It involves Hikaris ICH X saltwater version which contains 3% formalin and no malachite green. still highly effective as a bath and significantly more safe then handling 37% formalin. Here is the exact plan. Even with reinfection they do not have enough time to lay more eggs. Let me know what you think it is highly effective much more then prazi to say the least…



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@Jay Hemdal this is the plan I came up with to defeat the so called prazi resistant flukes and biodegradation and eating prazi bacteria. Mainly neobenendina which is hard to eradicate with prazi. It involves Hikaris ICH X saltwater version which contains 3% formalin and no malachite green. still highly effective as a bath and significantly more safe then handling 37% formalin. Here is the exact plan. Even with reinfection they do not have enough time to lay more eggs. Let me know what you think it is highly effective much more then prazi to say the least…



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This looks like AI instructions of some sort. Let us know how it works. Seems like a lot more work than hyposalinity though…..
 
@Jay Hemdal where do you think that this false notion came from that so many hobbyists think garlic and products like garlic guard help suppress or falsely get rid of marine ich. Obviously other products like Vita chem by Boyd do help marine fish with boosting their immune system to help fight off ich and boost their health but this notion that garlic helps control or get rid of ich is obviously a flat out lie.
 
@Jay Hemdal where do you think that this false notion came from that so many hobbyists think garlic and products like garlic guard help suppress or falsely get rid of marine ich. Obviously other products like Vita chem by Boyd do help marine fish with boosting their immune system to help fight off ich and boost their health but this notion that garlic helps control or get rid of ich is obviously a flat out lie.

There are some scientific papers that examined allicin extract from garlic as antiprotozoan medications in fish. The results were promising, but 100% control wasn’t seen and dosing is tricky. Home aquarists embraced that info and also use it as an appetite stimulant. Then, in typical fashion, it got over extrapolated and “enhanced”….

Same thing with your vitamin additions - that is really become overrated as a treatment for immune systems. Vitamin deficiencies are a problem long term, but adding more does NOT help. The water soluble vitamins just flush out if an excess is used, and fat soluble ones can be toxic if overdosed.
 

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