New House and New 300 Gallon reef tank build w/ fish room

[LEOreefer]

also here is the list of equipment that i have ordered or will order soon....

Awesome build! just a suggestion I had 2 gyre 230's and both failed on me within 6 months. Coralvue shipped out replacement motors right away but there now sitting in a box and I went with vortechs instead..... just my 2 cents

 

[EdsReefOdyssey]

Another nice thing about Supplyhouse.com they list Brand names. Some of the other websites don’t.

I’ve had good luck with Spears, good quality and made in the USA. Not sure about Red Flag. I ordered a few TUBVs but haven’t received them yet. So I cant tell you if there any better than the Cepex that BRS sells. They do get good reviews on the SH website and are a lot cheaper.

I agree with @foxt I don’t think your Bean Animal overflow is going to work the way you have it set up. I would add a gate or TUBV on the first drain line.

Nice Deere, so where are you going to put the koi pond??

 

[foxt]

On the bean, full siphon line should get a gate valve, makes it much easier to tune. You should run the other two lines directly to the sump as well, and they don’t need valves.

When I put valves in either the drain or return lines, I use true union valves. That allows you to take them apart without cutting anything if/when the need arises. I also like unions on anything hard plumbed, like the return pump, the storage tanks, uv light, etc. It costs a little more up front, but it is so much easier later on if anything has to come out.

 

[scott11106]

1. Where is the skimmer going? In that section of the sump with the float valve? Is that for your ATO? Normally that is in your return pump section, the skimmer section is usually constant level set by the baffle.

2. Any mechanical filtration? Socks, or no socks?

3. Looks like maybe a bean system? If so, you have drawn all three lines coming together into one drain, but the three lines need to be separate; main and second line submerged a bit, emergency above water.

4. You may want to plump drain valves into your water reservoirs so you can grab buckets of ro or salt when you need them such as when dipping coral, freshwater dips of fish, etc.

5. With a system this large, if you do get heavy into corals, you may eventually consider a calcium reactor in place of or in addition to dosing. At some point demand gets heavy enough that a carx starts to make things easier.

Thank you for the information and i will reply but i have not put alot of thought into the sump setup so thank you for digging into it !

1. that is a very good point as i did not even think of the water level in this section so i will move that.
2. yes there will be 4 socks although i am not sure what type i am going to use, any ideas?
3. it is a bean animal system and my drawing is confusing as it looks like the 3 lines merge but they do not and are just drawn behind each other, sorry for the confusion and i did not know the emergency had to be above the water until this post.
4. this is a great point and i will add that to the plan
5. yes i will add that to the list of items to get as i did originally spec one and forgot to add it to list, thanks for the reminder.

some great information here, keep it coming ...

 

[scott11106]

On the bean, full siphon line should get a gate valve, makes it much easier to tune. You should run the other two lines directly to the sump as well, and they don’t need valves.

When I put valves in either the drain or return lines, I use true union valves. That allows you to take them apart without cutting anything if/when the need arises. I also like unions on anything hard plumbed, like the return pump, the storage tanks, uv light, etc. It costs a little more up front, but it is so much easier later on if anything has to come out.

That is a good point, i think i will change the drain line from a true union valve to a gate valve and add 2 unions

 

[scott11106]

Wow look at all that snow how do u plan to heat the tank?

sorry for the delayed response, just noticed i missed it but we only get snow, more than a dusting a handful of times a year so standard heaters should do the trick. but i do like getting out in the snow...

 

[Benson0219]

Very nice house. Following...

 

[scott11106]

Very nice house. Following...

Thank you!! I cannot wait to move in and also finally get my tank wet, or even setup lol

 

[BrandonR]

looks great so far! cant wait to see this progress.

 

[Wildblue4]

thank you, I am ready to get the actual process of putting it together and getting water into as i have been planning for a while and i think i am real close to being ready. Honestly it is driving me nuts waiting for the house to be finished but the plan it to move in the first week of march...not long now

How’s it going? I have mine built and cycling. Hope yours is going great. I’ll check back in.

 

[ArowanaLover1902]

Those diagrams are awesome, what program is that? I know CAD is the 3D design ones, but are those blueprints as well?

 

[scott11106]

Those diagrams are awesome, what program is that? I know CAD is the 3D design ones, but are those blueprints as well?

Thanks!!
I used Autocad for the drawings and for the 3d stuff for the room i used ikea.com, its free and i could setup my room but it is limited....dont tell anyone my secret.

 

[scott11106]

WOOHOO, tank was delivered today so we had a great day between the rain drops getting this behemoth over the river, though the woods and into the house we go...
Thanks to all the guys from my LFS...Ocean's Floor, they are awesome and could not have done it without them

 

[scott11106]

and here it is in place....

 

[Ultra Aquatics]

Looks great, following along.

 

[User1]

Nice build, looks fun. I think I read above that it isn't the case but if not Bean Animals returns flow into separate pipes, not a single or merged unit. Your drawing showed that but I think you said above it is behind one another. I just finished my Bean and have to say it is nice and quiet. Only time it makes a noise is when I stop the pump to do something - my tank is cycling right now. It really is a great design.

Oh - I went with Hayward true union ball valves but should have went with the knob/gate style. I think it would be easier to tune. Also on all my plumbing that was threaded went with Oatey great white pipe join compound with ptfe. Zero drip and/or leaks I must say. The stuff is messy, super messy, but I've had so much better luck using the joint compound than Teflon tape - no way I'd ever go back.

 

[scott11106]

Nice build, looks fun. I think I read above that it isn't the case but if not Bean Animals returns flow into separate pipes, not a single or merged unit. Your drawing showed that but I think you said above it is behind one another. I just finished my Bean and have to say it is nice and quiet. Only time it makes a noise is when I stop the pump to do something - my tank is cycling right now. It really is a great design.

Oh - I went with Hayward true union ball valves but should have went with the knob/gate style. I think it would be easier to tune. Also on all my plumbing that was threaded went with Oatey great white pipe join compound with ptfe. Zero drip and/or leaks I must say. The stuff is messy, super messy, but I've had so much better luck using the joint compound than Teflon tape - no way I'd ever go back.

thanks and yes i drew the 3 drain lines behind each other (confusing i know) but they will be separate. i will most likely put one gate valve on the main drain line but i plan to adjust the flow with the pumps so i plan to have the drains wide open. we will see if it works the way i planned..lol
definitely going with the oatey, what did you use for pvc glue for slip connections?

 

[User1]

@scott11106 more Oatey products. Their standard PVC primer and cement/glue package. I don't recall what sort of PVC or ABS plumbing you went with but I just used standard white PVC. Nothing fancy so the primer I used was purple. Basic measure, cut, rough sand end I'm connecting, then sand slip fitting, primer, let dry, fit, mark line to align (I screwed up earlier in my setup by not marking final direction), apply cement to all pieces I'm connecting, then attach, turn 90 degrees while pressing/pushing together, then slowing turn to final position while holding together. Pretty much what I did to everything and no leaks.

If you have colored pipes then I think there is a clear primer or just be more careful than I was

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Woot! This is moving right along!

 

[mch1984]

Looking good, will be following along.