New RODI questions

[cvanchuck]

hello all again!

So I purchased a beer brs 5 stage RODI 75 gpd system today. Currently I just have it connected to my kitchen sink for setup.

I followed the instructions exactly as specified from BRS.

Current pressure is just shy of 60.

I did the flush run for ten minutes too make sure all debris are out of the system.

TDS in is 7. Out is 0!

Here are my questions.

1 is it common for them to produce a lot of waste?

2. The DI canister is not filling all the way up like the others. Been running for about an hour now. Is this common?

3. Is it possible to put a bypass between the RO and the DI to use for drinking? Thinking about putting the unit under my sink.

Thanks in advance!!!

P.S.

This forum is amazing. So glad the LFS told me to start here!!!!!!!

 

[Potatohead]

hello all again!

So I purchased a beer brs 5 stage RODI 75 gpd system today. Currently I just have it connected to my kitchen sink for setup.

I followed the instructions exactly as specified from BRS.

Current pressure is just shy of 60.

I did the flush run for ten minutes too make sure all debris are out of the system.

TDS in is 7. Out is 0!

Here are my questions.

1 is it common for them to produce a lot of waste?

2. The DI canister is not filling all the way up like the others. Been running for about an hour now. Is this common?

3. Is it possible to put a bypass between the RO and the DI to use for drinking? Thinking about putting the unit under my sink.

Thanks in advance!!!

P.S.

This forum is amazing. So glad the LFS told me to start here!!!!!!!

1: yes, about 3.5:1 waste to good
2: normal, nothing to worry about, if you put your reservoir lower or the DI unit higher it will fill more
3: absolutely

 

[cvanchuck]

Any recommendations for bypass system. Preferably Amazon. Have a fifty dollar credit. Haha

 

[JLowder]

Crack the seal on the DI canister and purge the air out of it bothers you.

 

[cvanchuck]

Crack the seal on the DI canister and purge the air out of it bothers you.

Oh wow! Thanks!!!!

 

[cvanchuck]

Another question to ask.

My psi after running it a few hours is fluctuating from about 49 to 54.

Is a booster pump necessary ?

TDS in is 2 out is 0

 

[PatW]

Another question to ask.

My psi after running it a few hours is fluctuating from about 49 to 54.

Is a booster pump necessary ?

TDS in is 2 out is 0

It is on the low side. My pressure runs at 60 psi and my BRS unit works fine. I think at lower pressure, you will get a lower rate of production (fewer gpd) and maybe a lower rejection rate. If you are happy with both of these, than why change?

 

[Deiblerj]

You could also look into the water saver kit if you want to increase output and decrease waste water. I don’t think they are too expensive on BRS

 

[laverda]

Another question to ask.

My psi after running it a few hours is fluctuating from about 49 to 54.

Is a booster pump necessary ?

TDS in is 2 out is 0

If my tap TDS was at 7-2 as stated I would bypass the membrane. Then you will have zero waste. Are sure those numbers are correct? Or do uou mean going into the DI?

 

[Potatohead]

Any recommendations for bypass system. Preferably Amazon. Have a fifty dollar credit. Haha

All you need is a tee fitting between after the membrane and before the DI, and then put a ball valve on the open end. Open the valve when you want drinking water and keep it closed when you are making tank water.

Another question to ask.

My psi after running it a few hours is fluctuating from about 49 to 54.

Is a booster pump necessary ?

TDS in is 2 out is 0

More pressure is always better (up to about 100 psi). Your system will work fine now but if you add a pump and say crank it to 90 psi, you will pay for the pump in time. If you reduce your TDS out of the membrane by half using pressure alone you will double the life of your DI resin. Now however with only 2 TDS coming out of the membrane the DI will last a long time as it is. More pressure will also produce less waste.

If my tap TDS was at 7-2 as stated I would bypass the membrane. Then you will have zero waste. Are sure those numbers are correct? Or do uou mean going into the DI?

I think he means two coming out of the membrane. I saw the mentioned seven before too so maybe he can clarify.

 

[Marco S]

Another question to ask.

My psi after running it a few hours is fluctuating from about 49 to 54.

Is a booster pump necessary ?

TDS in is 2 out is 0

If you are waiting for the water to fill and have to shut it off manually then I would recommend it, but if you have everything automated and you are not waiting on water to fill or shut off then you do not need it.

For example, I do have a 45 gallon saltwater mixing station and the RODI unit is hooked up with the auto shut off on the system and a float valve on the water container and it fills automatically and shuts off by itself and I do not care how long it takes to fill the container since I am not waiting on it. In that instance I would not recommend getting the pump.

I also have a drinking water dispenser that cools and heats water and I have 5 gallon jugs that I constantly need to change out with fresh water, (about twice a week). For this I split off the RO off with a line long enough so I can fill the 5 gallon containers manually in the sink, (in case they overflow). I think my pressure was around 35 - 40 psi before I got the pump and it took forever to fill the 5 gallon container. After I purchased the pump the pressure is consistently at 80 psi and it takes about 15 minutes to fill the container.

I do have the 200 GPD model with the water saver and auto shutoff so the actual time saving will vary for you, but it should save some time if that is your concern.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I have seen this mentioned before etc.... I have a 4-stage RODI that was purchased brand new, and I get TDS of 0-4 as a final product..... so it's not the new filter.... I guess the filter just isn't that good.

If I had 2 TDS coming out of my tap, I wouldn't use an RO filter at all....

 

[cvanchuck]

If my tap TDS was at 7-2 as stated I would bypass the membrane. Then you will have zero waste. Are sure those numbers are correct? Or do uou mean going into the DI?

Going into the DI is 2 and out of the DI is 0

 

[cvanchuck]

All you need is a tee fitting between after the membrane and before the DI, and then put a ball valve on the open end. Open the valve when you want drinking water and keep it closed when you are making tank water.



More pressure is always better (up to about 100 psi). Your system will work fine now but if you add a pump and say crank it to 90 psi, you will pay for the pump in time. If you reduce your TDS out of the membrane by half using pressure alone you will double the life of your DI resin. Now however with only 2 TDS coming out of the membrane the DI will last a long time as it is. More pressure will also produce less waste.



I think he means two coming out of the membrane. I saw the mentioned seven before too so maybe he can clarify.

 

[Potatohead]

OK well that meter is 3 TDS out of the membrane and zero after DI, which is fine. More pressure will help the following:

- Increase speed of water production
- Decrease DI resin use
- Decrease waste water

But it's not totally necessary in your situation, 3 TDS out of the membrane is pretty good.

 

[cvanchuck]

OK well that meter is 3 TDS out of the membrane and zero after DI, which is fine. More pressure will help the following:

- Increase speed of water production
- Decrease DI resin use
- Decrease waste water

But it's not totally necessary in your situation, 3 TDS out of the membrane is pretty good.

Ok. But would need the pump if I get the water saver upgrade?

 

[Potatohead]

Ok. But would need the pump if I get the water saver upgrade?

Probably. I think they ask for 65 psi minimum for that system

 

[cvanchuck]

Probably. I think they ask for 65 psi minimum for that system

They do.

 

[laverda]

Going into the DI is 2 and out of the DI is 0

That makes more sense.

 

[Peter Dietz]

If you are waiting for the water to fill and have to shut it off manually then I would recommend it, but if you have everything automated and you are not waiting on water to fill or shut off then you do not need it.

For example, I do have a 45 gallon saltwater mixing station and the RODI unit is hooked up with the auto shut off on the system and a float valve on the water container and it fills automatically and shuts off by itself and I do not care how long it takes to fill the container since I am not waiting on it. In that instance I would not recommend getting the pump.

I also have a drinking water dispenser that cools and heats water and I have 5 gallon jugs that I constantly need to change out with fresh water, (about twice a week). For this I split off the RO off with a line long enough so I can fill the 5 gallon containers manually in the sink, (in case they overflow). I think my pressure was around 35 - 40 psi before I got the pump and it took forever to fill the 5 gallon container. After I purchased the pump the pressure is consistently at 80 psi and it takes about 15 minutes to fill the container.

I do have the 200 GPD model with the water saver and auto shutoff so the actual time saving will vary for you, but it should save some time if that is your concern.

I'm curious as to how you have the system automated. I understand that you have a float switch inside the RODI tank which once it's triggered to float it triggers an electric switch to stop water from going to the RODI Unit?