Nitrite Levels High after Dr. Tim's Fishless Cycle

[ngservet5]

Hi Everyone,

I have been cycling a 20 gallon Waterbox Cube with marco rock and live sand now for 5 weeks. I started this tank doing a fish less cycle with Dr. Tim's One and Only along with his ammonium chloride. After following his instructions and doing the ammonium chloride dosing, by day 4 I had an ammonia spike of 8 ppm. Knowing that was way too high then what was recommended I did a 3 gallon water change to reduce those levels below 5 ppm. Eventually I was able to get the ammonia levels down to zero but since then I have been having issues with my nitrite being sky high for the last three weeks. I reached out to Dr. Tim's and was told the following "the live sand contains organics which decay into ammonia producing a constant source of ammonia which is why the ammonia (and nitrite) go up without you adding any ammonium chloride." I have stopped dosing ammonium chloride added the filter sock back in and did a 1/3 water change as instructed. My question is has anyone else had this problem? And if so when did you start actually seeing any progress? Considering that I read many people never even see a nitrite spike or a very little one when using this product I am kind of shocked that mine has gone as long as is has. I hope by doing these steps that I can finally overcome this hurdle. Any insight or suggestions is appreciated!


Thanks,
Nick

 

[brandon429]

your cycle is done, change water and begin

inb4 cycle stallers lol

-those bottle bac strains are ready in the tank within a day or two, you are well past the cycling date on any cycling chart so you are done. the reason test kits may or may not line up with the posted measures relative to your submersion time on those charts is because they aren't digital testers, the color compare ones range a bunch. its not possible for you to not be cycled, not possible at all. all you have to do is change some water so there's less algae fuel, and begin.


the truth about updated cycling science we have not been told is that our testers range so much we need new methods. nitrite reads where nitrate exists for most testers, so we omit those two cr0ss-reading params. nitrite cannot affect ammonia (though online vids say it can/bottle bac sellers) and if you can demonstrate ammonia moving down after being dosed (doesnt have to go to zero/digitial vs colorimetric) then you have re proven your cycle. only ammonia control matters in 2020 cycling. all you have to measure is it moving down overnite, not zero, and that accounts for most test error in reefing using color kits.

your tank is certainly able to demo ammonia control.

 

[Quietman]

What is sky high? Nitrite is necessary to get to nitrate of course but nitrite really isn't a concern in saltwater as it's not nearly as toxic in SW and it is in FW. If you have 0 ppm ammonia and nitrates being produced your tank is cycled, but you may need to do some water changes to bring everything down to normal values. Possible you have something decomposing. If you can add 1 or 2 ppm ammonia and it's 0ppm in 24 hours with a corresponding rise in nitrate in 48 hours - you're cycled.

 

[brandon429]

If i had to guess when your tank was ready to begin the start, I would select 48 hours after you added the bac. at no point would testing matter, we know how long the bac takes due to other threads that have measured this particular name brand.


another reason you are done: all tanks that begin at a macna convention are able to start on the same start date and none take 5 weeks. they use what you used/