OldFellows first Saltwater Build

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Gnop1950

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Macro algae, Red Ogo and Chaeto, arrived and have been placed in the refugium. Started dosing some Phytoplankton and will continue with small doses several times a day. Added a jar of Galaxy Pods from AlgaeBarn today as well. I decided to replace my original UNS refugium light with a Kessil H80 Tuna Flora. I'll be starting with a complete reverse lighting schedule at about 70% intensity with the grow setting and adjust the duration/intensity based on weekly testing.

The corals seem to be doing well. Initially, one of them, one of the toadstools, looked like it needed a dose of Cialis. Looks like it got its fix as it is looking good today ;) All the corals were already extending their polyps yesterday evening, and they've remained extended, though not quite as far, all day with the lights on. They also seem to have better color today as well. Tomorrow I'll crush a couple of fish food pellets (Neptune Crossover Diet) and put them in the tank. Once the fish arrive, I'll start soaking some of the frozen Mysis Shrimp and pellets in garlic once or twice a week.

I ordered an initial cleanup crew, all snails to start with, that should arrive on Friday. I made this first order smaller, and I'll add more CUC every couple of weeks. There is very little algae, but a good bit of biofilm on the glass and rocks. There does appear to be some algae on the Rubble Rox in the refugium. I do have nori and some algae wafers I can use to supplement the snails' diet until there is a bit more algae for them to snack on.

My wife is happy, I ordered a bonded pair of Clownfish, Midnight Domino and Gladiator, for delivery at the end of next week. I wanted captive-bred, and as close to AZ as possible, so I ordered these from Clownfish Corral in San Diego. So far, they've been very responsive, even texting me to verify the delivery date and ask if my tank was fully cycled.

Assuming everything goes well, I may start adding a few more soft corals over the next month or so.
 
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The initial cleanup crew, all snails, arrived in good shape and have been introduced to the tank. Some of the little guys are speedsters and have been zooming around at a good clip. I believe there is enough biofilm and algae for them, but to be safe, I'll put a bit of nori in for them to munch on this weekend.

I may order a few more soft corals, probably Zonantihds, in the next week or so. The six frags currently in the tank look a bit lonely. Maybe try a Duncan coral and see how it does.

One of the goals for this tank is to get to the point where I only need about a 10% water change once or twice a month. At some point, I'll start dosing All-For-Reef to replace micro nutrients.

For the next couple of months, I'll be testing all of the major parameters weekly and nitrate daily. Right now, my nitrate is at 17.6 ppm. If it should start trending over 20 ppm, I'll probably do a small water change. I expect it to trend down as the refugium matures and the macro algae grows out.

I had to disassemble the small powerhead in the refugium after it became clogged with macro algae. To mitigate further issues, I took some prefilter sponges I had from my freshwater tanks and cut them to fit over the intakes of the powerhead. I'm not sure I even need the powerhead. There is a pretty good flow from the Reef Matt chamber through the refugium. I'm considering replacing the small power head with a low-flow airstone if the powerhead continues to clog.
 
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Ordered two Zoanthids from Tidal Gardens; they seem to have one of the best selections. Ordered one Emeralds on Fire and one Eagle Eye. Site has a good rep, but corals aren't quarantined, so I'll dip them before putting them in the tank. I'll probably use Coral RX. I have hydrogen peroxide, but that is a bit harsher, and zonanthids are supposedly a bit more sensitive to dips.

Nitrates were over 20 ppm for two consecutive days, so I did a 10% water change. I'm targeting around 5-10 ppm. After the water change, nitrates were at 14 ppm. They should continue to decline as the macroalgae in the refugium mature, but during this phase, I want to at least keep them under 20 ppm.

The initial cleanup crew, snails, has been busy. Lots of little goodies came with the snails, nothing really nasty: barnacles, one clam, and some slipper snails. The clam and slipper snails are filter feeders. One of the snails in the CUC seems to be carrying around an entire apartment complex of slipper snails, a clam, and barnacles. It is one of the Antillean Nerite snails.

I'll be ordering the next group of CUC for delivery in about 10 days. This one will include some hermit crabs, shrimp, and, of course, more snails. I'll also order some more copepods. In May, I'll likely order my next fish, a sand sifting goby of some sort.

The two new Zoanthids arrive on Tuesday, and the bonded pair of Clowns from Clownfish Corral arrive on Friday. They were supposedly raised and quarantined by the vendor, so a bit pricey. I really hope they do well.

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Finally, finished setting up my UV Sterilizer on my saltwater tank. The tank's total volume is 164 gallons, so I paired the 57-watt Aqua Ultraviolet UV sterilizer with an SICCE Syncra 5.0 pump and set the pump to about 2/3 power, which should be about 800 GPH, give or take a bit. I probably should buy a flow meter so I can dial it in a bit more precisely.
 
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The two Zoanthids from Tidal Gardens arrived today: Emeralds on Fire and Eagle Eye. I acclimated them, chopped off the bottom pegs, then dipped them in Coral RX for 15 minutes. They were pretty clean. I did flush out one small, flat, white, worm. I assume it was a detritus worm, but that is all I really saw during the dip/flush. I didn't cut the flat part off the plug. I didn't feel confident I could do that without damaging the zonathids.

My next self-assigned task is to finish up the video series on my camera and how-to on taking aquarium pictures, so I can up my game in that regard.
 
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The two clownfish from Clown Fish Corral arrive today. The Tank is in the diatom/brown algae phase (Ugly Phase), and water parameters have been stable for a few weeks now.

Now that the tank is in the "Ugly Phase", with diatoms and brown algae, it is time to finish filling out my initial CUC. I had already put a small snail crew in place and placed an order for the rest of the crew.

Total CUC once the next group arrives:
  • 25 blue leg hermits
  • 40 assorted hermits
  • 4 small conch
  • 48 Dwarf Ceriths
  • 19 Nassarius vibex
  • 20 Florida Ceriths
  • 17 Nerites
  • 14 Trochus snails
  • 90 empty shells, various sizes for hermits
All the hermits are "reef safe" and, hopefully, with enough different-sized shells, snail predation by the hermits will be minimal. We'll see how that goes.

Except for periodic replacement of the above, I'll be adding a few shrimp, a brittlestar, and a sand-shifting Gobi of some sort, but that will come later, probably in a few months.

There are currently 7 Coral frags, all softies, that seem to be doing well. I've ordered three more frags, 2 bi-color Frogspawn (LPS Euphyllia) and one Duncan coral. The Frogspawn frags are from the same colony, so the plan is to place them close together and hope the Clownfish will like them once they've grown.
 
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The two Clown Fish from Clownfish Corral, a Midnight Domino and Gladiator, arrived yesterday in good shape. They were acclimated and introduced to the tank and appear to be doing well. I'll try the first feeding today after the lights have been on for a while.

I made some adjustments to the powerheads and return pump in honor of my new inhabitants. I reduced the power on the G2 8000 pump to 65% to target an 8-9 per hour water turnover. It took a bit to get it adjusted properly. Likely exacerbated by having the UV pump pulling from the Matt Roller chamber and returning to the return chamber, but it seems to be solid now. No noise from the overflow, and the levels in the sump are solid.

I also repositioned the powerheads (2 x ReefWave 45 Gyre Powerhead). One on the left at about 2/3 tank height and one on the right in the bottom half. Then I set up a schedule using the ReefBeat app as follows:

Wavemaker Schedule:
  1. 0000 - 0900: 10% Power, Random Wave, no Sync, 10 Min forward & 2 Min reverse
  2. 0900 - 1500: 20% Power, Random Wave, no Sync, 10 Min forward & 2 Min reverse
  3. 1500 - 1900: 30% Power, Random Wave, no Sync, 10 Min forward & 2 Min reverse
  4. 1900 - 0000: 20% Power, Random Wave, no Sync, 10 Min forward & 2 Min reverse
So far, there don't seem to be any dead spots, and there appears to be adequate flow for the corals.
 
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I believe in documenting my failures as well as my successes. Who knows, maybe it will help someone else.

The failure in this case isn't critical, just expensive. I didn't pay close enough attention and probably touched the bulb and maybe the sleeve on my UV sterilizer with my bare hands. So, the bulb burned out today. Since I'm not sure which was the culprit, I ordered a new bulb and sleeve to be safe. Almost as expensive as ordering a whole new UV sterilizer.

It is unfortunate that this failure coincided with the ugly phase of my tank and, in addition to some diatoms on the sand, I also have some dinos on the rocks. The corals, fish, and inverts appear to be doing well.

What I'm doing to address the issue:
  • First, I checked both nitrate and phosphate levels. Phosphates were really low at 0.02 ppm, and nitrates are at 18 ppm, so a ratio of 900:1, not good.
  • Next, I reduced the RSK-900 skimmer efficiency for a wetter skim to reduce nutrient removal
  • The parts for my UV Sterilizer will arrive in a couple of days, and that should help some
  • My enhanced CUC arrives on Tuesday and includes 14 Trochus snails, which may also help
  • I reduced the photo period to 6 hours (I wasn't sure if lowering it much more than that would be good for the corals in the tank)
  • I ordered some Brightwell NeoPhos to use as a last resort if the other methods don't solve the issue in a couple of weeks
  • Never one to let an opportunity pass to add technology, I ordered an Enaly OZAC-PLUS 200 ozone generator, a Milwaukee MC510 ORP Controller, and 1/2 Gallon of ROX 0.8 carbon
The good news is that the two clown fish from Clownfish Corral are doing well, as are the corals and inverts in the tank. I increased the amount I'm feeding a bit to help add some phosphate. For the time being, I'm feeding twice a day with a combination of chopped-up Mysis shrimp soaked in garlic for one feeding and crushed Neptune Crossover Diet pellets soaked in Vita Chem.
 
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After some more research, I've started dosing NeoPhos to raise the phosphate levels a bit. Apparently, the Carib Sea Live Dry Rock, or really any engineered rock, actually absorbs phosphates until it reaches equilibrium with the phosphate in the water. This is the opposite of dry rock previously harvested from the ocean, which, once dried out and returned to saltwater in our aquariums, can actually release phosphates. I apparently missed this when researching using dry rock.

While I do have some "live" rubble in the sump, the majority of the rock in my aquarium is Carib Sea Live Dry Rock, which is engineered from agronite. I may need to dose NeoPhos for months until the phosphate levels in the water and the rock reach equilibrium. I have a good bit of the Carib Sea rock in the DT. The goal is to reach a reasonable N to P ratio. The current N to P ratio of 900:1 is not ideal, to say the least.

From what I've read, raising the phosphate level to somewhere between, say, 0.06 and 0.3 ppm (general range recommended in an article by Randy Farley) is more important than the actual ratio. Right now, at 0.02 ppm phosphate, the good guys (bacteria/algae/etc) are nutrient-deprived due to the low phosphate. While the bad guys, dinoflagellates, excel in a low-nutrient environment (low phosphates in this case), outcompeting the good guys.

I'll continue the other methods I outlined, modified by daily dosing of NeoPhos until phosphates stabilize somewhere in the 0.06 and 0.3 range, shooting for 0.1.

I'll also add a few more jars of copepods.
 
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Now I may be weird, but I'm having a blast, even with the dinos. I love challenges, and this journey is proving pretty challenging. Reading the forums, articles, doing research, and figuring out what works best for my tanks is a blast.

Minor updates. Since I'm now directly dosing NeoPhos, I turned the skimmer back up. I've been overfeeding a bit. Partially to raise phosphate levels and, in part, to make sure the two clownfish, corals, and invertebrates were getting enough. The clowns are eating well now. I don't really want/need extra nitrate.

I noticed that with the extra feeding, the Skimmer and Roller Matt are working very well. The skimmer is skimming, and the skimmate is a very dark brown. The roller mat fleece went from about 8-10 inches a day to between 2-3 feet a day over the past few days due to heavy feeding. I'll reduce the feeding a bit and see what difference that makes.

Added some activated carbon to the sump and will be changing it out every two weeks until the dinos are gone. The phosphate rose from 0.02 to 0.03 after the first dose. Nitrate actually fell from 18.9 ppm to 17.7. It will be interesting to see how fast things change over the next few weeks. The Chaeto has almost died off, probably because of the ultra-low phosphate issue. The Red Ogo seems to be doing alright. I read that Red Ogo is more tolerant of low phosphate levels.

Enhanced CUC arrives tomorrow. PH has been rising slowly over the past month. It is now averaging a bit over 8.1. I'm guessing that a good part of that is the whole home ERV. The ERV has reduced the average CO2 ppm by about 400-500 ppm throughout the house.
 
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I think the algae above is something like Lobophora, not dinos. I'll include a picture below. The reason I believe it is not dinos is that once I introduced the hermits and snails, they started scarfing it up.

My hermit and snail army is doing yeoman's work on the algae in the tank. The snails have even cleaned it off the wavemakers. So much so that I've ordered some cuttlebone, TDO Chroma Boost, and Algae Wafers to start supplemental feeding once all the visible algae is gone. I'm figuring another day or so at most.

Phosphate is being absorbed in the tank so quickly that it is going back to 0 after 24 hours now, so I'm setting up my doser to dispense small doses of NeoPhos automatically throughout the day, rather than manually dosing larger quantities less frequently. For the time being, I'm testing Phosphate and Nitrate daily until Phosphate stabilizes within my target range of approximately 0.06-0.1 ppm.

I ordered 2 x Live Sand & Rox boxes from Tampa Bay Saltwater. The plan is to remove a large Bio Block from the refugium and replace it with the live sand and rock from Tampa Bay. That is 12 lbs of live sand and 4 lbs of live nano rock, I'll add to the Rubble Rox I had previously placed there. If there is any left over, doubtful, I'll put it in the 9-Gallon I'm setting up just for fun.

The ozone generator and ORP probe arrived, and I'll set that up this weekend.

The clownfish are doing well. Unfortunately, they've decided that "home" is in the back right corner of the tank, sigh. Oh well, maybe once the tank matures, I can add an anemone, and they'll consider moving.
algae_2.jpeg
algae_2.jpeg
 
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One major upgrade and a small change in direction.

Ozone:
The Milwaukee MC510 ORP Controller and Enaly OZAC-PLUS 200 Ozone generator arrived and have been installed. To increase phosphates, I had been overfeeding, but it wasn't working, so I started dosing NeoPhos daily, and that is working.

When I installed the ORP monitor, the ORP reading was very low, under 100mv. I'm guessing this was likely due to overfeeding, which caused more dissolved organics in the water. The skimmer and roller mat were removing them quickly enough that there wasn't a major nutrient spike, but they were still affecting the ORP reading. Just a guess, but with the NeoPhos dosing, I'm no longer overfeeding. Or should say I will try to no longer overfeed ;)

I hooked up the ozone to my RSK-900 DC Skimmer. It isn't rated for ozone, but after some research, I decided to go ahead anyway. Some alternatives include ozone reactors, a new ozone-rated skimmer, etc. Pretty much as, or more, expensive than simply replacing the skimmer with an ozone-rated one should it break down over time. I did look at some less expensive DIY solutions in the forums, but they took up more space than I was willing to sacrifice.

Ozone Setup:
Once the Milwaukee MC510 was installed, I hooked up the Enaly generator, attaching an air dryer and then routing ozone-safe tubing to a venturi on the air sliencer of the skimmer. I then placed mesh bags of activated carbon on the vents on the top of the skimmer. I also placed mesh bags of activated carbon on top of the coarse sponge of the bubble trap between the skimmer and the return chamber in the sump. I'm not sure why both the air in and ozone out on the back of the Enaly are simply labeled Airlets; in/out or ozone/air would seem more appropriate.

I set the MC510 to approximately 350 mV using the "below" setting to trigger ozone generation when the ORP falls below 350 mV. I set the Enaly generator to push a max of 100mg per hour when activated by the MC510. Everything seems to be functioning properly. ORP reading is currently 338 mV after running all night, and the generator is currently off. The mV setting isn't exact, so I'm guessing it's set to around 340 mV.

Since ozone won't be running continuously, and the skimmer is pretty efficient, my best guess is that the skimmer will last at least a couple of years, or more, before the ozone has a major effect on the skimmer parts. Should that happen, I'll replace the skimmer with one that is rated for ozone.

Water Parameters and Dosing:
I'll continue dosing NeoPhos by hand instead of using my dosing pump. Mostly because I'm going to start two-part dosing.

Current Water Parameters:
  • Ammonia: 0.0 ppm (API Saltwater Test)
  • Nitrite: 0.0 ppm (API Saltwater Test)
  • Nitrate: 13.0 ppm (Hanna)
  • Phosphate: 0.06 ppm (Hanna)
  • Calcium: 409 ppm (Hanna)
  • Alkalinity: 7.4 ppm (Hanna)
  • Magnesium: 1590 (Hanna)
  • pH: 8.1 (Probe)
  • Salinity: 1.026
Alkalinity is a bit low, having dropped from 8.5 about two weeks ago. Calcium is ok, but could be a bit higher. Magnesium is high and has dropped only slightly since about two weeks ago. I have Topic Marin All for Reef, but that contains magnesium, so I'll hold off on using that for a while.

I ordered some ESV B-Ionic two-part that I'll use until it makes sense to start dosing All for Reef.

Algae:
The CUC has cleaned up 95% or more of the algae (Lobophora and diatoms, I believe). There is no visible discoloration on the sand, and only a few scattered pieces of the Lobophora on some of the rocks.
 
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Minor updates and some quick photos, plus one movie. The pictures were taken with both 15k and 20k filters stacked.

The movie and pictures were taken with an older iPad Pro and haven't been cleaned up. I wish I had taken a before movie. The CUC has pretty much cleared out the algae/diatoms. There are what I think are early stages of coraline algae on the rocks. The light purple stuff felt rough with multiple small, hard, white dots.

Quick movie of my tank at two months.

Picture of one of the corals in the tank. The top of this rock was covered in brown, skin tag-like algae just a few days ago. One larger hermit did most of the cleaning in this area.

6E7C3D5C-293C-4147-975D-99ED8CE75551_1_105_c.jpeg


Some of the other corals in the tank.

204D0CDB-549C-4ECB-98EB-01765DECD0AB_1_105_c.jpeg
DFDE100E-AFFA-4388-8B11-BBAA4730478A_1_105_c.jpeg
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The one toadstool on the left of the tank in the movie has the polyps retracted and is covered with a grey film. I read that this is normal and that I should give it a week or so, since the stalk seems firm.

Since my clownfish have established themselves in the back right corner, I've decided to see if I can grow some GSP on the back glass in that corner. No rocks are near the back glass, so I'm hoping it will be relatively easy to keep it contained to the back section of the tank between the overflow and the side glass. 🤞I'll start it low on the back glass and keep it trimmed away from the side glass and overflow.

Well, USPS banged up my ESV B-Ionic two-part containers so badly that they're leaking and need to be replaced. I'm not sure what I was thinking. I mostly just need to raise the Alkalinity by about 1 point. I've already done that once using USP food-grade sodium bicarbonate. I have a ton on hand for my CO2 generators that I use on some of my freshwater tanks. So I mixed up enough to raise the Alk from 7.4 to about 8.4. I can hold off on the two-part dosing until the ESV B-Iconic replacement jugs arrive.

Today I'm also hooking up my Icecap CO2 scrubber to the ozone generator's air intake. This should improve the generator's performance and possibly prevent other issues.

The tank is very clean, the CUC has done an excellent job. I'm starting to feed nori. Between that and the leftover fish food, hopefully, that will be sufficient. This is the first time for nori in the tank; I have it on magnetic clips. Some small pieces are flying around. I probably need to wrap it a bit tighter the next time. The hermits and snails are both attacking it at a good pace.
 
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Minor updates and a short video of my new clownfish. Well, relatively new, they are over a week old. They are eating well. I've been feeding them Mysis shrimp in the morning, soaked in Garlic Guard. Their evening feedings have been varied between Neptune Systems Crossover Diet and TDO Chroma Boost, with a couple of drops of Vita Chem every other day. I've also started feeding the inverts some nori and algae wafers about twice a week. The rest of the time, they clean up anything the Clownfish drop.

My wife is going through names for the Clowns. I really wish they had chosen a different place as home. Opposite side of the tank from my auto-feeder by the wavemaker, sigh.

Two clowns, my first saltwater fish.

The new ozone generator should be here tomorrow. I swapped out both the sleeve and the burned-out UV bulb today, so the UV is back on 24/7. I now have my nitrile gloves in the Reef room, so I don't have any excuse to mishandle the UV bulb or sleeve again.

The toadstool that went grey sloughed off the grey covering and is now back to normal.

A few more corals are coming this week and next. The next fish will likely be added in June. I'm thinking maybe a Blenny or Goby of some kind.
 
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The OZOTECH Posiden 200 ozone generator arrived today, and I'll be hooking it up this evening. I don't think it will be working very hard. I'm targeting around 350 mV. Yesterday, prior to fixing and turning the UV sterilizer back on, the ORP reading was approximately 250 mV. After running the UV for 24 hours, the current ORP reading is at 316 mV, so almost a 70 mV rise just from turning on the UV and reducing feeding a bit.

The snails have been cleaning algae off the remnants of the plugs on some corals. None of them seemed to mind, except the Zoanthids. They closed up pretty tight, but I'm hoping they'll recover. The plugs and rocks they are on are now clean of algae, so the snails shouldn't be disturbing them for a while. The snail activity didn't seem to bother any of the soft corals in the tank.

The clownfish, Lulu (female) and Bozo (male), are feeding much more aggressively. Lulu is coming right up to the pipette I use for the mysis shrimp, and Bozo isn't far behind. They are both now eating mysis shrimp in the morning and the TDO Chroma Boost and Neptune Crossover diet pellets I feed for their late afternoon meal. I use a few drops of vitamins on the pellets and soak the mysis shrimp in a bit of garlic.
 
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Been a while since my last update. In general, things have been going well. Alkalinity was a bit low, so I baked some Baking Soda and added it slowly to the tank which worked very well.

Water:
One of my goals has been to minimize water changes. At almost 3 months, I've done one 10% WC. Aligned with this goal, I've signed up for the Trition MYTE program for three months. I should be receiving my first test kit this week.

I've also decided to dose Kalkwasser instead of two-part. I'd read that virtually every two-part gradually raises salinity, while Kalkwasser does not. I'm using a dedicated doser and dosing tank for the Kalkwasser.

Parameters have been pretty steady, but there is still a pretty low bioload. Nitrates have been fluctuating between 15 and 20 PPM. I've been continuing to dose NeoPhos to keep the N : P at between 50 : 1 to 100 : 1. Phosphate has started to climb a bit and not crash every 24 hours so I believe the rocks and substrate are close to reaching equilibrium.

The refugium has a good growth of Pom Pom, Red Ogo, and some Chaeto. Lots of Pods are visible in the refugium and in the DT. I feed a bit of ReefRoids once a week, and the Pod population seems to explode shortly after.

Replacing the pump in my Ozone chain with an Alita 15 lpm pump worked very well. Using a rotometer, I keep the input to the pump at approximately 3 lpm. ORP is set and stays between 325-350. The generator is controlled by a Milwaukee 510 ORP controller.

Alita Air Pump->CO2 Scrubber->Air Dryer->Rotometer->OZOTECH Posiden 200 Generator -> Skimmer Venturi

Algae:
Still have some GHA, but the CUC seems to be keeping it in check. It has remained the same for a couple of weeks. I have ordered a Starry Blenny from Marine Collectors and some more Trochus snails.

Coraline algae seems to be getting a good hold on the rock and the back wall of the tank. All in all, I feel that when it comes to nuisance algae, the tank is doing pretty well for its age.

Fish:
Still only the two clownfish, Lulu and Bozo. They are doing well, although I really hope they eventually pick somewhere other than the back corner by one of the wave makers for home.

Waiting for the Starry Blenny to be procured and go through QT at Marine Collectors. Once that arrives, I'll start looking for my next fish.

Coral:

I started adding coral pretty early. There are now 15 frags in the tank. Mostly softies with some LPS. All except one Zoanthid frag seems to be doing well. The one Zoanthid frag has been partially closed up for about a week.

I buy all my corals from QT vendors. I made the mistake of not dipping a couple of new corals from a QT vendor, and one tiny Aiptasia anemone popped up about 4-5 inches from one of the new corals. I nuked it with F-Aiptasia. So far, over a week later, I haven't seen any new ones, so hopefully that was it. I removed and dipped the coral involved and removed most of the remaining frag plug. Needless to say, I'll be dipping all corals going forward, even from QT vendors.

Misc:
I added some live sand and rock from TBS to the refugium. I spotted what I believe to be a variegated sea urchin in the refugium along with a tiny starfish.

I ordered some additional snails and 3 peppermint shrimp from AlgaeBarn. Unfortunately, they were DOA, probably due to the heat. The two icepacks were pretty warm. It took 2.5 days with the free shipping. I'm guessing the ice packs didn't last the first day.

They were very responsive and answered within about an hour, offering to reship or give a store credit. I took the reship and offered to pay to upgrade the shipping to overnight. Now that summer is approaching, I don't think anything but overnight will work going forward.

This is a video of my tank at 2.75 months. And some additional pictures of the corals currently in the tank.
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WHAT AMOUNT OF LIVE ROCK AND SAND SHOULD BE PRIORITIZED FOR OPTIMAL BIODIVERSITY/FILTRATION?

  • 100% live rock + bagged sand

    Votes: 34 28.1%
  • 100% dry rock + 100% live sand

    Votes: 41 33.9%
  • 50/50 live/dry rock, 50/50 live/bagged sand

    Votes: 27 22.3%
  • 75% live rock, 25% live sand

    Votes: 11 9.1%
  • 25% live rock, 75% live sand

    Votes: 8 6.6%
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