Options for Combating a Dino Outbreak

Hi,
ok, I have removed the UV from the sump. I have also ordered a new bulb. How do you recommend installing in the display? The UV is quite large. It can't just hand on the side like some. Also, my pump is pretty big. Maybe I need a smaller pump?

Thanks.
This is always a bit awkward
Cant find the pics. I let the uv rest on some furniture beside tank and pump was attached to glass close to bottom.
 
Last edited:
Hi,
ok, I have removed the UV from the sump. I have also ordered a new bulb. How do you recommend installing in the display? The UV is quite large. It can't just hand on the side like some. Also, my pump is pretty big. Maybe I need a smaller pump?

Thanks.
It can run basically like a canister filter, so where is sits isn't that important..can even be on the floor.

A smaller pump would help, but it will only be temporary either way....maybe it doesn't matter? If you want to switch, seems like a SYNCRA 3.0 or 3.5 ought to have enough push without being too gigantic.

Are those smaller than what you have?
1791416599370.png
 
Thats why it doesnt work. Pump must be a temporary installation in displaytank (you will not catch all dino otherwise), and in your case approx 2000 l/h(tank vol 4 itmes /hour) , and for that the UV must be double from you have now, 55w. Also, as yours is one year, its even less effective.

Hi,
I have a question about this. Why are you saying the pump needs to be in the display? Why is the display better than the sump? Doesn't all water flow through the sump?

Thanks.
 
Hi,
I have a question about this. Why are you saying the pump needs to be in the display? Why is the display better than the sump? Doesn't all water flow through the sump?

Thanks.
Yes but its then also relying on sump flow meaning that if uv pump is tanksizex4/hour but sump flow not, then uv will not in reality process all tank water 4 times an hour.
Also, maybe not sure all dinos evenly spread in water but even if leave sand mostly in vicinity of sandbed.
 
I am keeping it in my sump. But I installed a new bulb, I increased the flow through the sump, and I dialed the flow through the UV to ~450 GPH. it was closer to 350.

I also added bacteria and started dosing Tropic Marin Plus NP. I have also thoroughly cleaned the sand bed, rocks and sump.

Hopefully all of this will help.
 
I am keeping it in my sump. But I installed a new bulb, I increased the flow through the sump, and I dialed the flow through the UV to ~450 GPH. it was closer to 350.

I also added bacteria and started dosing Tropic Marin Plus NP. I have also thoroughly cleaned the sand bed, rocks and sump.

Hopefully all of this will help.
Sorry in advance for the naivety but what is the reason for dosing bacterial products when running UV which kills everything? Is the idea replenishment of the lost bacteria?
 
Sorry in advance for the naivety but what is the reason for dosing bacterial products when running UV which kills everything? Is the idea replenishment of the lost bacteria?
I turned the UV off when I dosed the bacteria to give it a chance to get into the rock and the sand. Then I turned the UV back on.
 
Sorry in advance for the naivety but what is the reason for dosing bacterial products when running UV which kills everything? Is the idea replenishment of the lost bacteria?
The idea behind dosing bacteria products and silicates is to increase the competition from other microbes. Unfortunately the battle against Dino’s often consists of throwing a bunch of solutions into the mix and hoping that doing so changes the tank equilibrium in a way detrimental to the Dino’s.
 
Yes, but not necessarily in the way you intend to claim.

Studies also clearly show that dinos outperform competitors (diatoms) in some low nutrient situations. It's a complex dance between various competitors and various types of nutrients.

https://hero.epa.gov/reference/742154/

Competition of three bloom-forming marine phytoplankton (diatom Skeletonema costatum, and dinoflagellates Prorocentrum minimum and Alexandrium tamarense) was studied through a series of multispecies cultures with different nitrate (NaNO3) and phosphate (NaH2PO4) levels and excess silicate to interpret red tide algae succession. S. costatum outgrew the other two dinoflagellates in nitrate and phosphate replete cultures with 10 mu mol/L Na2SiO3. Under nitrate limited (8.82 mu mol/L NaNO3) conditions, the growth of S. costatum was also dominant when phosphate concentrations were from 3.6 to 108 mu mol/L. Cell density of the two dinoflagellates only increased slightly, to less than 400 and 600 cells/mL, respectively. Cell density of S. costatum decreased with time before day 12, and then increased to 4000 cells/mL (1.5 mg/L dry biomass) at NaNO3 concentrations between 88.2 and 882 mu mol/L with limited phosphate (0.36 mu mol/L NaH2PO4) levels. In addition, P minimum grew well with a maximal cell density of 1690-2100 cells/mL (0.5-0.6 mg/L dry biomass). Although S. costatum initially grew fast, its cell density decreased quickly with time later in the growth phase and the two dinoflagellates were dominant under the nitrate-limited and high nitrate conditions with limited phosphate. These results indicated that the diatom was a poor competitor compared to the two dinoflagellates under limited phosphate; however, it grew well under limited nitrate when growth of the dinoflagellates was near detection limits.
I have trouble using observations about pelagic dinoflagellate growth to explain or hypothesize about what is causing benthic dinoflagellate growth. On top of that, the knowledge about what makes pelagic dinoflagellates fails to explain the spotty growth of benthic dinoflagellate growth. Ditto for the claim that dosing silicate somehow enables diatoms to zero in on the dinoflagellate benthic films and muscle the dinoflagellates off the surface.
 

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