Orphek OR3 poor spread... optics upgrade?

[jabeuy]

double post

 

[jabeuy]

How are you guys removing the lenses? The frame/enclosure of mine seems to be glued in pretty well, and I don’t want to break anything by prying it open

 

[Superlightman]

I just made my own diffusers and have sold a few to others.

did you made diffuser for the OR 3 now?

 

[atoll]

did you made diffuser for the OR 3 now?

Nope sorry.

 

[brandon0921]

Nope sorry.

I’d be interested too if you did

 

[minus9]

I’d be interested too if you did

I made a diffuser for my OR2 bars, but there was too much par loss, almost 40%, so I didn’t keep them. The same thing happened when I removed the lenses, it helped with blending, but you would have to mount them even closer to make up the difference of the par loss. If you mounted them 8” or less, then you could simply remove the lenses, but they get their punch through the 90 degree lenses. I think the sweet spot for them is 10” to 14”. This all depends on your tank depth.

 

[brandon0921]

Thanks for the input, I just purchased mine today. I’m going to try and raise them up per your suggestion and see if that helps

I made a diffuser for my OR2 bars, but there was too much par loss, almost 40%, so I didn’t keep them. The same thing happened when I removed the lenses, it helped with blending, but you would have to mount them even closer to make up the difference of the par loss. If you mounted them 8” or less, then you could simply remove the lenses, but they get their punch through the 90 degree lenses. I think the sweet spot for them is 10” to 14”. This all depends on your tank depth.

 

[minus9]

Thanks for the input, I just purchased mine today. I’m going to try and raise them up per your suggestion and see if that helps

You can buy some 120 lenses and swap them out, but it comes at a cost with par loss, just depends on what you’re after? Par or spread? To make up the difference, adding an hour or so could make up for the par loss?

 

[Spieg]

Native diode spread is usually 120 degrees i.e no lenses at all.

^^This^^
Just remove the lenses and you should get 120* spread.

 

[brandon0921]

You can buy some 120 lenses and swap them out, but it comes at a cost with par loss, just depends on what you’re after? Par or spread? To make up the difference, adding an hour or so could make up for the par loss?

I really don’t need par at all, I have 3x xr-30 over a 4’. Was looking to cut down on shadowing and add some pop. I think I may look into adding 2x t5 bulbs in addition to the bar. It doesn’t seem like it’s gonna fill in the shadows like I was expecting.

 

[minus9]

I really don’t need par at all, I have 3x xr-30 over a 4’. Was looking to cut down on shadowing and add some pop. I think I may look into adding 2x t5 bulbs in addition to the bar. It doesn’t seem like it’s gonna fill in the shadows like I was expecting.

Try and angle them first and see what that can do for you? I have mine mounted on the very edge, then angled in, which helps.

 

[Hamza Hamid]

I made a diffuser for my OR2 bars, but there was too much par loss, almost 40%, so I didn’t keep them. The same thing happened when I removed the lenses, it helped with blending, but you would have to mount them even closer to make up the difference of the par loss. If you mounted them 8” or less, then you could simply remove the lenses, but they get their punch through the 90 degree lenses. I think the sweet spot for them is 10” to 14”. This all depends on your tank depth.

Any picture how u made the or2 bar diffuser? i am really interested in making 1

 

[Hamza Hamid]

I made a diffuser for my OR2 bars, but there was too much par loss, almost 40%, so I didn’t keep them. The same thing happened when I removed the lenses, it helped with blending, but you would have to mount them even closer to make up the difference of the par loss. If you mounted them 8” or less, then you could simply remove the lenses, but they get their punch through the 90 degree lenses. I think the sweet spot for them is 10” to 14”. This all depends on your tank depth.

Can i know please how did u make the or2 diffuser? i want to make 1 desperately. send me pictures plz if possible. Please PM.

 

[minus9]

Can i know please how did u make the or2 diffuser? i want to make 1 desperately. send me pictures plz if possible. [email protected]

I bought some special diffuser material and cut it to length. I’ll have to search my email to see where I bought it. It really cut the par output, but you may just pull the lenses from the unit and then they’ll blend better at their native 120 degree output. I think Parker’s reef did a video about pulling the lenses.

 

[atoll]

I make diffusers for the Atlantic's and icons and keep the lenses on. However, there is still quite a bit of PAR loss I don't have a par meter to take readings.
I use 3mm acrylic diffuser that has lots of tiny pyramid type projections on it to scatter the light. This does mix the colours extremely well. My icons are 10" off the waters surface to reduce light spill in the room.

My sand Before fitting diffusers.

After fitting my diffusers.

Attached to the icons.

 

[outhouse]

i am finding the spread to be extremely narrow

Someone should have told you that you need two bars min for 24" wide tank.

I tried 1 bar for UV using reefbreeders and it only covered half the tank.

These are similar to a T5 and 1 bulb with not cover 24"

It is what it is, I have 2 and complete coverage.

 

[Hamza Hamid]

I bought some special diffuser material and cut it to length. I’ll have to search my email to see where I bought it. It really cut the par output, but you may just pull the lenses from the unit and then they’ll blend better at their native 120 degree output. I think Parker’s reef did a video about pulling the lenses.

Yes i have seen that video looks easy to remove it also. Dont know i was not happy with that idea, there lot of bleeding of light inside i mean between led and the front panel lens make the light to come straight out but removing lens will make it bleed inside. Do u think makes a valid point?
u may ask its ok to bleed inside but that may generate extra heat inside

 

[minus9]

Yes i have seen that video looks easy to remove it also. Dont know i was not happy with that idea, there lot of bleeding of light inside i mean between led and the front panel lens make the light to come straight out but removing lens will make it bleed inside. Do u think makes a valid point?
u may ask its ok to bleed inside but that may generate extra heat inside

How high do you have the lights mounted? By design, they need to be mounted higher than other fixtures, I would say 10" minimum above the water. For deeper tanks, you can mount them a little closer to "punch" down more, but the spread and blending isn't the greatest. If you use a diffuser or remove the lenses, then you'll have to mount them closer. Removing the lenses isn't that bad, just be careful when removing the acrylic cover.

 

[ReefingInMadrid]

Someone should have told you that you need two bars min for 24" wide tank.

I tried 1 bar for UV using reefbreeders and it only covered half the tank.

These are similar to a T5 and 1 bulb with not cover 24"

It is what it is, I have 2 and complete coverage.

Outhose i have 2 bars, one in the front and another one in the back.. and if you read the thread i mention that these are support lights, just for colour pop.. I have 2 evergrow IT5012 as my main lights.. And regarding them being similar to T5s... i wished.. but the bars optics are very narrow and have a very poor spread, even with the 2 bars, the center just receives residual light.

 

[outhouse]

Wow my reefbreeders cover my 210 well