Orphek OR3 repair

[TurboTang]

My OR3 150 lightbar failed this week. First it was only half the bar, and 2 days later the other half shut off. After disassembly I found 2 diodes were pulling too much voltage (~30V). I jumpered them and now the light bar works - except of course the 2 failed diodes.
Has anyone cut off and replaced the diodes on these light bars? Does anyone know what type of diodes they are - I don't see a part number on them.

Also, I noticed a couple of the diodes are turning brown, but they work - attached are photos)

 

[Memoreefs]

I have personally done so on the large orphek Atlantiks. I wouldn't suggest purchasing the led diodes on the market. If you contact orphek, they could offer to send you the diodes if you know how to solder them yourself.

 

[oreo54]

My OR3 150 lightbar failed this week. First it was only half the bar, and 2 days later the other half shut off. After disassembly I found 2 diodes were pulling too much voltage (~30V). I jumpered them and now the light bar works - except of course the 2 failed diodes.
Has anyone cut off and replaced the diodes on these light bars? Does anyone know what type of diodes they are - I don't see a part number on them.

Also, I noticed a couple of the diodes are turning brown, but they work - attached are photos)

It's no different than this:


You can find the leds on ebay.
I'd put a TEENY amount of thermal compound on the center circle.
They burn out easier if the center slug doesn't make good contact on the circuit board.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800196535471.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Funny the "structure" diagram has 2 negatives in the bottom right.

 

[TurboTang]

I have personally done so on the large orphek Atlantiks. I wouldn't suggest purchasing the led diodes on the market. If you contact orphek, they could offer to send you the diodes if you know how to solder them yourself.

Thanks for info. I've contacted orphek, but they only offered to replace complete led board for a significant price. I will ask if I can purchase only the diodes.

 

[TurboTang]

It's no different than this:


You can find the leds on ebay.
I'd put a TEENY amount of thermal compound on the center circle.
They burn out easier if the center slug doesn't make good contact on the circuit board.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800196535471.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Funny the "structure" diagram has 2 negatives in the bottom right.

Thank you for advice and video. Perfect information. I'm certain I can do this. Thanks again

 

[Memoreefs]

Thanks for info. I've contacted orphek, but they only offered to replace complete led board for a significant price. I will ask if I can purchase only the diodes.

Let me know if you need help. If you tell me the nm of the diodes you need, I can reach out to them as well to get the diodes.

 

[vetteguy53081]

These dont fix as well as the atlantiks. Lately they are selling parts than replacing them due to known faults which is sad.
The diodes are available if one has repair/solder knowledge.

 

[TurboTang]

These dont fix as well as the atlantiks. Lately they are selling parts than replacing them due to known faults which is sad.
The diodes are available if one has repair/solder knowledge.

Yeah I'm a bit disappointed. I really liked this bar. I run a large T5 setup, and used this (blue) bar for extra pop. Really liked it but not worth it if it barely lasts 2 years. I was thinking about slowly replacing T5's with another bar, but not anymore.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yeah I'm a bit disappointed. I really liked this bar. I run a large T5 setup, and used this (blue) bar for extra pop. Really liked it but not worth it if it barely lasts 2 years. I was thinking about slowly replacing T5's with another bar, but not anymore.

I had a couple and ran great but also believe they were the OR2 not 3

 

[oreo54]

Yeah I'm a bit disappointed. I really liked this bar. I run a large T5 setup, and used this (blue) bar for extra pop. Really liked it but not worth it if it barely lasts 2 years. I was thinking about slowly replacing T5's with another bar, but not anymore.

Well part of it "may" be that the larger bars are run series/parallel.
The 150 runs 1050mA constant current..
If one side goes out the other side gets the full current.. 1050mA.
Unless they incorporate some magic here..
Generally these diodes do no like that.
Not sure how long it takes for the 1050mA to impact the remaining side.
It's nice they use those "eggs" since it is a fairly easy home repair vs other smd types but there are drawbacks.

Each side is even a bit higher than the small bars (450mA) at 1050/2 = 525mA.

Is there any thermal compound on the center of the led to begin with?
some Beamswork 3w diode lights actually had the center soldered as well as the 2 legs.
Removal was generally destructive with a twist off.

 

[TurboTang]

Well part of it "may" be that the larger bars are run series/parallel.
The 150 runs 1050mA constant current..
If one side goes out the other side gets the full current.. 1050mA.
Unless they incorporate some magic here..
Generally these diodes do no like that.
Not sure how long it takes for the 1050mA to impact the remaining side.
It's nice they use those "eggs" since it is a fairly easy home repair vs other smd types but there are drawbacks.

Each side is even a bit higher than the small bars (450mA) at 1050/2 = 525mA.

Is there any thermal compound on the center of the led to begin with?
some Beamswork 3w diode lights actually had the center soldered as well as the 2 legs.
Removal was generally destructive with a twist off.

Based on failure behavior, you are most likely correct. I happened to be in the room when half the bar started blinking (lightening feature ). Then it shut off. The next day to he other half was off and that's when I noticed the brown LEDs on that 2nd half. I have not removed any diodes yet. Jumpered the bad ones today, reassembled the fixture and rehung it over tank. I'll see what happens when it switches on at 8AM.

 

[jhadaway]

Mine started to flicker at 1 1/2 years. I had a cut power cord, then a converter that would fry you if you touched water, then this. No luck for me here. I just ordered a quanta pro. Figured i’d give them a shot.

 

[jhadaway]

Thanks for info. I've contacted orphek, but they only offered to replace complete led board for a significant price. I will ask if I can purchase only the diodes.

They tried selling me an upgrade package to make them compatible with the new dimming system.$130. The light was $160 new. Not likely.

 

[mtraylor]

What is the upgrade package? They offered you to go to dimmable OR3 with OSIx?

 

[TurboTang]

The quick fix of jumpering over the bad diodes seems to be working out ok. Original condition was 42 diodes - 1050/42 = 25mA. With 40 diodes= 26.3mA. Hopefully I can just run it like this and do nothing else. But I'll get some new diodes ordered to be prepared. Thanks everyone for advice.

 

[TurboTang]

What is the upgrade package? They offered you to go to dimmable OR3 with OSIx?

Yes, exactly

 

[oreo54]

The quick fix of jumpering over the bad diodes seems to be working out ok. Original condition was 42 diodes - 1050/42 = 25mA. With 40 diodes= 26.3mA. Hopefully I can just run it like this and do nothing else. But I'll get some new diodes ordered to be prepared. Thanks everyone for advice.

Error doesn't work that way ..
All diodes will see 1050/2.
All you did was decrease the total wattage
Each diode is roughly 3.2V ( V will vary by " color") x .525 = 1 68w
X 42 or 40......

Since current sharing without some control is tricky to begin with hopefully the minor change in string characteristics doesn't effect it.

https://www.eeweb.com/balancing-led-current-in-parallel-string/

 

[mtraylor]

Yes, exactly

Thats a great deal. All the new tech for that price sounds great. A new 150 is like $280 for reference. Non dimmable. Then you get a fixture that has fixed all the issues that is causing them to burn out, so you may want to think it over. Oh and its dimmable.

 

[TurboTang]

Error doesn't work that way ..
All diodes will see 1050/2.
All you did was decrease the total wattage
Each diode is roughly 3.2V ( V will vary by " color") x .525 = 1 68w
X 42 or 40......

Since current sharing without some control is tricky to begin with hopefully the minor change in string characteristics doesn't effect it.

https://www.eeweb.com/balancing-led-current-in-parallel-string/

Awesome thanks for clarifying the way it works. I've lost one led in each of the parallel strings, so it should still be mostly balanced - not sure what colors I lost yet.

 

[oreo54]

Thats a great deal. All the new tech for that price sounds great. A new 150 is like $280 for reference. Non dimmable. Then you get a fixture that has fixed all the issues that is causing them to burn out, so you may want to think it over. Oh and its dimmable.

The originals are dimmable with the correct driver. It's the driver not the board that is the "dimming issue".
Snce you need a driver plus board plus controller (may work w/ a cheap pot) the upgrade is a questionable upgrade path depending on how old the fixture is.
Basically the only orig part would be the aluminum heat sink.

If one is capable and has time upgrading the board with all new diodes yourself is relatively cheap.
Getting (more like finding) a dimmable driver that "fits" is about $50.

fun thing is you can change its "color"..