pdiehm New Build

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pdiehm

pdiehm

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We put the tank on the stand tonight! It fits perfectly. Working on the plumbing some...just ordered some black PVC tubing since neither lowes nor HD have it around here....Going with a single return and wanted black to blend into the background.

TankampStand.jpg



TankampStand2.jpg
 
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Tested Brute container tonight. Last 2 times I tested for phosphates was 0.03 and 0.02. Tonight it tested 0.07. Dropped in a cap of SeaKlear.

The other container last test was 1.29, did a water change and will test it tomorrow or Monday.

Painted the back of my tank today, and good lord it took a LOT of paint. The paint just wasn't sticking. Did 2 light coats of spray...then 2 coats of rolling interior enamel. 2 more coats of spray...another coat of rolling enamel, and had the one part that just looked cracked. Sprayed it, and got my wife's hairdryer to dry it quick. another coat, and got it covered.

Working on figuring out the pipe lengths at some point, will start gluing them together. Need to contact a glass company to get my baffles cut, but I can still fill up to 9" which is where my water level will be in the skimmer section (probably 10 or so inches in the return area) and test out the overflow and work on dialing in the system. That way when it's in the house, it's dialed in, and I can worry about the next steps.
 

143MPCo

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Maybe I missed it, but what type of dry rock did you get again?
 

143MPCo

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I used the same, the rock took a little over 3 weeks to leach out all the PO4, for me... and had to change the water every two days, was a BIG pain in the butt!
 
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Dry fit the plumbing...now to figure out where I want to put the gate valve on the main siphon drain. leaning towards in the sump area...not real sure yet.

2FC584ED-6981-4559-9340-F4B4DAE1F709.jpg
 
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Glued the pvc together, installed the gate valve. Where the pipes drain into the sump, I did not glue pieces yet, just dry fit it, and filled it up and used my flo-tech pump that I got from home depot or lowes (i use it for water changes) as a make shift return pump.

Water flows up and over the emergency drain for about 5-10 seconds, never reaching the air tubing for the open channel of my beananimal overflow. The open channel screams water down for about 20-30 second before the main siphon kicks into gear, and becomes bubble free in about 30-45 seconds. All told, system takes about 90-120 seconds to reach quiet. The main siphon has some bubbles every now and then, and I'm pretty sure it's because the bottom drain pipe is not sealed.

I'm still debating whether to split my return line into 2. Return pump is a Sicce Syncra Silent 4.0. I have 1 tee already to the fuge section (planned at least). PUmp head is about 5'. what do you guys think? Single return line or split it into a return over each corner in the back?
 
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Overflow plumbing done!


working on the return. Was going to split it, but decided to just use a single outlet for 2 reasons. First, it would be more cutting and figuring out measurements. Second, I had all the pieces to do a single return. Third, it was just easier.


Working on finalizing the baffle dimensions. I know it's 17 3/8". The height of the return and Refugium are throwing me for loops at the moment.


Leaning towards 12x9 for the skimmer, 6x9 for the return, 16x11 for the refugium.
 
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After talking to a friend, decided to skip the refugium at this time. Gives me a chance to focus on the tank, and keep the sump out of sight, out of mind, with little maintenance once every 2 weeks. Skimmer section will be expanded 2" and the rest will be for the return. Allows me plenty of room for my heaters, and for an eventual GFO/Carbon reactor.
 
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Phosphate tests tonight!

32G Brute = 0.03 (dosed with a cap of SeaKlear)
20G Brute = 0.00 (4th straight time at 0.00)

Pretty sure the rock is nearing the end of the cure, jumpstarting the cycle process, but not concerned if it finishes. It will when I get it in the house.
 
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Canopy about done...trying to figure out how much ventilation I will need if I have the LED's sitting on top shining down.

Anyhows. the rock is essentially cured. Another 0.02ppm test, and 0.00ppm test. Finalizing the fish stocking and waiting for Reef Flakes to come into stock...somewhere....anywhere.
 
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Pictures of the canopy build. Today is staining day and I need to get a latex white caulk as I was an idiot and used clear waterproof caulk. Paint rolls right off it. It works, more of a sex appeal look.

CanopyFrame1.jpg


CanopyFrame3.jpg




CanopyFrame2.jpg


CanopyFrame5.jpg


CanopyFrame4.jpg


CanopyFrame6.jpg
 
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CanopyDoors.jpg


CanopyInsidePaint1.jpg


It annoys me that the doors are not the same size. Not a big deal, but now the trick is to sexy it up. Need to figure that out.
 
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Rock is almost cured. Ready to move the tank into the house and start setting that up.

Making a list of stuff to buy yet before we really get going.

What I have so far:

Tank - 120 XH Perfecto
Stand - Homemade
Skimmer - Aquamaxx EM200
Heaters - 2 Titanium digital 150W (maybe 200W)
Substrate - 60 lbs of Reef Flakes, 30 lbs of Mini Flakes
Rock - 75 lbs of Pukani
Refractometer - BRS
Hanna Tester - 736
Test Kit - Red Sea Master - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Alk
Return pump - Syncra Silent 4.0
Canopy - Homemade
Containers - Brute (2 32 gal, 2 20 gal)
RODI - BRS 6 stage 150 gpd water saver

What I need to get yet (in order...I think):

Water pump - Maxspect Gyre 150
GFO/Carbon Reactor, GFO, Carbon and pump - Spectrapure dual reactor, bag of carbon, bag of GFO, and Syncra Silent 0.5
Auto Top Off - Need to research this
Light - Photon 48 (need the 47.25" model) by Reefbreeders.

Wish list:

Controller setup so I can monitor/control with my phone?


But that's it...unless I'm missing something, I'm pretty much good to go to start cycling. I don't think I need a water pump to start cycling, but if I do, I'll obviously need that prior to starting the cycle. The light will be probably the last thing I get.
 
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Didn't put the tank on the stand last night, wanted to give the stand some time to settle onto the carpet so I could shim it. Turned out that was a wise decision as it was off a bit with the back being higher than the front. Side to side isn't perfectly level, but the bubble is between the lines.

Put the sump in the stand this morning, and had a smaller section set up for the return, but upon reviewing, probably better to give myself a larger return area. As it is, my QT tank, I have to top off about 1/4-1/2 gallon each day.

Got a GFCI adapter for the outlet, and a 7 unit 2100 joule power strip that I mounted on the back. I'm pretty sure it will be enough. If not, I have an electrician who can throw in a wall GFCI on the other side of the tank for me.

Here's the pic of the sump in the stand, with my AquaMaxx EM200 skimmer sitting nicely in the first compartment.

6FFAFC52-394C-47D4-B5C2-CDD40333FB1B.jpg
 
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More pics.

First Aquascape:

Pic1.jpg



Changed the scape a little:


Pic3.jpg



Another shot....GO HAWKS!!!! and a WE ARE!!!!!!!!


Pic4.jpg



65 Gallons of H20 in the tank. Currently has 80, and probably will only be about 90-95 gallons of actual water in the tank when all done...was surprised by that.


Pic6.jpg
 
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Currently there's 110 gallons in the tank, with about 3/4 of the return chamber left to fill in the sump. Rocks and sand take up a ton of space in terms of water volume.

Fired up the skimmer last night to see how quiet it is. It has a hum, but with the doors on, you can barely hear it, and only if you are listening for it. Just turned the heaters on to 77 (I have 2 Finnex HMO 200's in the middle compartment of the sump.

I do need to shim the one side as it's a smidge lower than the other, and the overflow verifies that as only about 2/3 of the overflow is skimming water. Water line is right up to the top of the overflow, so it's not a big shim. Knowing what I do now, I would not have built this stand in the garage because the floor is not level...things you live and learn.
 

Making aqua concoctions: Have you ever tried the Reef Moonshiner Method?

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