Phos

[Ziggy17]

Try not touching anything for 7 days. Then test PO4 and NO3. You end up being your own worst enemy when you start making adjustments all at once trying to fix it quickly.

 

[Subsea]

“Due to high phosphate and some of the corals being shrinked, I added NEOPHOS. I mistakenly added three capsules instead of slowly adding it“


My bad. I thought NoPox, which is carbon dosing.

@jacobcoral
NeoPhos would add phosphate.
Is that what you added?

 

[jacobcoral]

I looked for a tank thread but found none. I did see threads with reference to a 10G & a 12G.

Please describe the biofiltration for this tank and how long has tank been set up. Is this your first tank?

First tank it’s been set up for about 1 year

 

[jacobcoral]

“Due to high phosphate and some of the corals being shrinked, I added NEOPHOS. I mistakenly added three capsules instead of slowly adding it“


My bad. I thought NoPox, which is carbon dosing.

@jacobcoral
NeoPhos would add phosphate.
Is that what you added?

I might have the name wrong I belive it removes phosphate tho

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I might have the name wrong I belive it removes phosphate tho

well, no point in discussing issues until we know the product.

 

[jacobcoral]

well, no point in discussing issues until we know the produ

“Due to high phosphate and some of the corals being shrinked, I added NEOPHOS. I mistakenly added three capsules instead of slowly adding it“


My bad. I thought NoPox, which is carbon dosing.

@jacobcoral
NeoPhos would add phosphate.
Is that what you added?

I added a product called phosphate-e
3 capfuls which is way over suggested rates

Currently
Alk 10.9
Phos .41
Nitrate 2.5

So I panicked bc I thought I added too much phos-e and over fed reef foods and Red Sea reef food. (Assuming that’s what brought up the phos x2)

So now my problem is I’m assuming the phos is too high because previously my tank sat at .22ish steadily

Also do run a skimmer I’ve never cleaned it though.

Here’s a pic of the tank (some zoas are still fine some are closed)

Here’s a pic of the bottle of product

 

[jacobcoral]

well, no point in discussing issues until we know the product.

I added a product called phosphate-e
3 capfuls which is way over suggested rates

Currently
Alk 10.9
Phos .41
Nitrate 2.5

So I panicked bc I thought I added too much phos-e and over fed reef foods and Red Sea reef food.

So now my problem is I’m assuming the phos is too high because previously my tank sat at .22ish steadily

Here’s a pic of the tank (some zoas are still fine some are closed)

Here’s a pic of the bottle of product

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

That’s a lanthanum product. It lowers phosphate.

Your phosphate is no big problem. I’d just avoid the reef roids for a while.

 

[jacobcoral]

That’s a lanthanum product. It lowers phosphate.

Your phosphate is no big problem. I’d just avoid the reef roids for a while.

So should I add a bit of that to drop phos a bit or just let it go?

also should I clean the skimmer I have? I’ve never cleaned it

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

So should I add a bit of that to drop phos a bit or just let it go?

also should I clean the skimmer I have? I’ve never cleaned it

I’d stop the roids and just observe for a while. Some great tanks have phosphate far, far higher.

 

[Ziggy17]

I have a 80g total volume tank. Reef roids are a no fly zone for me as well. My PO4 runs between .1-.15 and roids will take mine up over .2 when I feed it. Coupled that with the fact that the death of a couple snails is going to push me over .2 as it is. So I feed ammonium and carbon dose with vinegar. Once a month, as a treat I’ll dilute a 1/2 gram of roids to feed my Goni. But yeah, not a regular thing….

 

[Subsea]

I added a product called phosphate-e
3 capfuls which is way over suggested rates

Currently
Alk 10.9
Phos .41
Nitrate 2.5

So I panicked bc I thought I added too much phos-e and over fed reef foods and Red Sea reef food.

So now my problem is I’m assuming the phos is too high because previously my tank sat at .22ish steadily

Here’s a pic of the tank (some zoas are still fine some are closed)

Here’s a pic of the bottle of product

Nitrate at 2.5ppm is not ideal. I would dose ammonia or some other nitrogen source.

 

[jacobcoral]

Nitrate at 2.5ppm is not ideal. I would dose ammonia or some other nitrogen source.

Are you sure?

 

[Subsea]

Are you sure?

Are you sure your nitrate is 2.5ppm. Depending on your test kit that is likely zero. If you were running ULNS with SPS then 2ppm nitrate would be acceptable, however you have mushrooms which love high nutrients.
.

For soft corals, anything above 10 ppm nitrate is good to go.

 

[jacobcoral]

Are you sure your nitrate is 2.5ppm. Depending on your test kit that is likely zero. If you were running ULNS with SPS then 2ppm nitrate would be acceptable, however you have mushrooms which love high nutrients.
.

For soft corals, anything above 10 ppm nitrate is good to go.

Yes I’m sure it was the Hana checker. I have mushrooms and zoas with 2 frogspawn that’s it. Should I aim for 2.5 higher or less?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes I’m sure it was the Hana checker. I have mushrooms and zoas with 2 frogspawn that’s it. Should I aim for 2.5 higher or less?

This is my recommendation:

Randy’s Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges

Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges by Randy Holmes-Farley Almost nothing in the world of reef aquarium chemistry causes as much discussion as selecting and maintaining ranges for nitrate and phosphate. Some aquarists want low targets, some want...

www.reef2reef.com

4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:

• Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
• Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
• Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
• Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up.