PVC cement / glue cure times

Noridin

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I've searched and cannot seem to find an answer so I figured I'd just ask.

What is the recommend wait time to put glued/cemented PVC into a system?

I know with household plumbing you can put water back on it almost as quickly as the cement holds but you can smell the cement odor in the water. The cement says it fully cures in 2 hours.

Would it be safe for fish, corals, inverts and bacteria after the 2 hour cure time?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 

jsker

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I would suggest wait the two hour, especially if there are going to be a few joints glued I have glued one joint in the past for a emergency fix and fired up the pumps :oops:
 

cromag27

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Wait at least 24 hours for off gassing. just because it may be cured after a couple hours, doesn't mean all of the toxins have off gassed.
 

jason2459

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Wait at least 24 hours for off gassing. just because it may be cured after a couple hours, doesn't mean all of the toxins have off gassed.
24 hours or even more will not hurt but what toxins are you worried about? I've seen no effects after doing even some extensive replumbing and waiting an hour.
 

cromag27

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I'm not 100% sure, but take your pick...

Furan, Tetrahydro, Acetone, Methyl ethyl ketone, Polyvinyl chloride, Cyclohexanoe, Fumed Silica
 

jason2459

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I'm not 100% sure, but take your pick...

Furan, Tetrahydro, Acetone, Methyl ethyl ketone, Polyvinyl chloride, Cyclohexanoe, Fumed Silica
And how toxic are all those to sea life once those chemicals react with seawater at low concentrations per volume? I certainly wouldn't recommend dumping a can in and waiting 2 hours or more could be better but it seems there's very little noticeable effects of waiting a shorter amount of time. I know of many that have not waited 2hrs or more.
 

Fritzhamer

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it's certainly prudent to wait but let's not forget that pvc isn't really safe period. In terms of leaching chemicals, PVC can't be used for potable water. It isn't safe to transport anything humans will consume no matter how long you let it cure. There are many arguments for banning its use entirely: That being said I've replumbed many a fully stocked tank and kicked the pumps back on after five minutes without any ill effect.
 

Sleepydoc

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Agree with the above comments. I've seen plenty of posts by people who have put parts in to immediate service but I usually wait 24 hrs if at all possible. As to the toxins in the water, I've never seen any reports of adverse effects (and remember, we put coral glue directly in the tank, and that's full of toxins, too, just not coral toxins.)

The other thing to remember is that our systems are almost exclusively low pressure, well below the pressures schedule 40 PVC is designed to handle, so if we're a bit eager the joint will likely still be more than strong enough.
 

bblumberg

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it's certainly prudent to wait but let's not forget that pvc isn't really safe period. In terms of leaching chemicals, PVC can't be used for potable water. It isn't safe to transport anything humans will consume no matter how long you let it cure. There are many arguments for banning its use entirely: That being said I've replumbed many a fully stocked tank and kicked the pumps back on after five minutes without any ill effect.

Seriously? Have you ever heard of Schedule 40 or 80 PVC water pipes that are in many homes? I agree that PVC leaches chemicals that we would be better off without, but it is totally approved for potable water and food use....

Bruce
 

Fritzhamer

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Seriously? Have you ever heard of Schedule 40 or 80 PVC water pipes that are in many homes? I agree that PVC leaches chemicals that we would be better off without, but it is totally approved for potable water and food use....

Bruce

That isn't true: PVC is approved for residential use in DRAIN LINES. It is not used for potable water. CPVC, PEX and copper are what is used for potable water. I think some parts of the country allow PVC for cold water only applications outside the home (non potable). Typically the delivery of water for plants, sprinklers, etc.
 

bblumberg

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That isn't true: PVC is approved for residential use in DRAIN LINES. It is not used for potable water. CPVC, PEX and copper are what is used for potable water. I think some parts of the country allow PVC for cold water only applications outside the home (non potable). Typically the delivery of water for plants, sprinklers, etc.

Believe as you wish. Most Schedule 40 and 80 PVC pipe is NSF 61 rated which is for potable water. I agree that PVC pipe is not permitted to be used for water supply in homes. However, this is not because it leaches toxic material, but because it might leak if the pipe gets too hot. This is why CPVC is allowed inside homes - it has higher temperature stability. Ironically, because it has higher levels of chlorine which is not environmentally friendly. Both types of pipe contain high levels of organotins which are problematic (we work on those).

Bruce
 

Sleepydoc

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From the Charlotte Pipe Technical manual:
"PVC and CPVC piping systems designed for domestic water applications are listed to conform to NSF International Standard 61. This Health Effects standard ensures the safety of products coming into contact with drinking water."
Either way I would go back to the fact that multitudes of reefers have used PVC pipes in their systems for years with no evidence of adverse effects. (And also point out that while copper and brass are approved for potable water, the are most definitely not reef safe! ;) )
 

Fritzhamer

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For sure, I didn't intend to start a tangent on the safety of PVC for drinking. My main point was that I've used primer and solvent and after only a few minutes fired up the pumps and had no adverse effects. Perhaps I caused some chromosomal damage, who knows?

There are lots of things rated safe that turn out to not be so. We all used grey Brute cans until clownfish breeders found that they caused chromosonal damage to the offspring. Now the white brute cans are more common in the hobby. BPA was used in milk bottles until we found it had adverse effects. We used to think plastic was inert and in the last few years we've found that it reacts with all kinds of things.

I use PVC on my tank and have no intention of stopping nor do I advocate anyone else stop. I was just pointing out that its made of some nasty stuff, even without the solvent. So don't sweat the solvent so much. 24 hours is probably a good idea, more time is better than less. In an emergency though you'll probably be ok. Many people have ran water through before it was completely dry and everything was fine.
 

Lifer

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I went to home Depot and they had a can called Rain or Shine. Is this pvc glue better to use then just the regular solvent?
 
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Noridin

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I went to home Depot and they had a can called Rain or Shine. Is this pvc glue better to use then just the regular solvent?
I don't know anything about that one but this is what I've been using.
WP_20170510_10_24_14_Pro.jpg
 

Sleepydoc

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I went to home Depot and they had a can called Rain or Shine. Is this pvc glue better to use then just the regular solvent?
It should work. I'd have to take a closer look at the label or MSDS to see the actual difference. The description says 'very fast setting' - regular PVC cement sets up pretty darned fast, so I'd actually be worried about not having enough working time with it. I've used what Noridin pictured without issues.

Of course the Rain or Shine cement gives you a pretty blue color...
 

Lifer

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OK continuing along the same subject lines. . . How does one go about using these pvc glue containers several times? Each time I use them the cap ends up glued shut! Sometimes I can get it open up with pliers but most often not and having to open a brand new one instead and wasting the old one
 

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