Radion G4 SPS AB+??
- Thread starter wabooth555
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I like the bare bottom. I'll probably never put stuff in again for substrate.
Get a school of cardinals and some chromis. Cheap poopers. That's what I did. You can also get a bottle of potassium nitrate (salt peter) for like 10$ and it will last you for years.
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I have 1 white Wyoming clown in a BB. No live rock, a westmariculture bonsai tree. I run a skimmer part time. I had to dose nitrate and phos to have any kind of reading, but the coralline is doing great. I feed coral a couple times per week. Fish only gets LRS, a 3 hr. drive to find it, she's spoiled. Mystics every now and then, a Hawaiian Red Anemone, stays small and super sticky, 5 acans and 2 Weldon-scold hybrids on bottom of tank. SPS on tree levels. I turned up the flow on 2 mp40s, mistake, 3 acros but the dirt overnight so I turned them back down. I had the lights at 45 but they seemed not to like it so it's down to 40. I tried raising the nitrates to 5, STN and some SPS coral death. It's now back at 2.5 and phos .03-.04. I had a Pax Bellum and sold it due to this tank running too clean, killed chaeto x4. I couldn't run the Triton base 7, caused too much algae problems. The Triton Reef , which is diluted 50% with water,I'm going to get down to 7 or 7.2 dkh, not 8, CA runs high already using TM Pro Reef salt . Any suggestions besides more fish? I'd rather have the coral and less fish.
Yeah LRS is only on one place here too so far. Lol, but worth it.
Sound's like you dove in fast like most of us did the first time. Maybe time to rethink, redesign, and get to a point where you have a base to add corals. Why no live rock/setup prior to corals and fish? Just curious. I understand you may have a different vision.
Do you really need a skimmer and fuge at this point? You're probably not there yet. Until live rock cannot keep up with bioload I don't use a skimmer or anything (I know you don't have any now). Once my import (I like to feed) exceeds natural methods I add the skimmer and fuge if needed.
Flow is great, mine get blasted. My 40B has to XF150 gyres in it on full alternating with small overlap. They just have to be mounted well. Some great new evidence has come out that is legitimate in justifying higher flow for our corals (SPS world).
You definitely need to go slow on the LED power until things are healthy and growing. Once corals are settled theyre less sensitive to changes. Changes will definitely effect growth, but will be less likely to kill. If they're on the edge of healthy vs. unhealthy changes are more likely to kill. We've all been there.
As far as triton and ULNS stuff I don't know much about it. I know people do less than I with new methods and have nicer tanks so I'm just keeping it simple with the traditional methods up to skimming/fuge. I don't run medias or anything. I will run carbon if I treat for disease to remove toxin/drug after treatment. That's all I do.
Sound's like you dove in fast like most of us did the first time. Maybe time to rethink, redesign, and get to a point where you have a base to add corals. Why no live rock/setup prior to corals and fish? Just curious. I understand you may have a different vision.
Do you really need a skimmer and fuge at this point? You're probably not there yet. Until live rock cannot keep up with bioload I don't use a skimmer or anything (I know you don't have any now). Once my import (I like to feed) exceeds natural methods I add the skimmer and fuge if needed.
Flow is great, mine get blasted. My 40B has to XF150 gyres in it on full alternating with small overlap. They just have to be mounted well. Some great new evidence has come out that is legitimate in justifying higher flow for our corals (SPS world).
You definitely need to go slow on the LED power until things are healthy and growing. Once corals are settled theyre less sensitive to changes. Changes will definitely effect growth, but will be less likely to kill. If they're on the edge of healthy vs. unhealthy changes are more likely to kill. We've all been there.
As far as triton and ULNS stuff I don't know much about it. I know people do less than I with new methods and have nicer tanks so I'm just keeping it simple with the traditional methods up to skimming/fuge. I don't run medias or anything. I will run carbon if I treat for disease to remove toxin/drug after treatment. That's all I do.
I've been at this awhile. The last tank I tried the triton base, no wc, but no fuge. The person I was speaking to thought it would work, definitely not, the golf course had nothing on me...so green. This tank originally had live Tonga rock, all Tonga and live sand. I was fighting bright yellow algae, the expert I was speaking with had no clue either so I got rid of the sand. Hello very large Eunice that had a taste for the more expensive LPS, 2 scolys and 2 Rhyzo , dare I say, within three nights. The rock was taken apart, Eunice removed. The same rock had different algae problems so removed it all and went with a sculpture. Over time bacteria settles on everything . My thought was go with the most natural way, Pax Bellum and skimmer. The triton reef is a balling method, all, ca,mg, minor and major elements. So I'm down to the Triton for other methods, and a skimmer. Gone are the reactors of this and that. BB with coralline, all the parameters seem ok. I think the dead SPS starved. My ongoing question is lighting and flow. The mp40s are on the back wall and set not to go over 50%. The overflow is in the middle of the tank internally, so it sticks out. I had this tank built from Miracles in Canada. I've also read people are over blasting their coral with light. At this point I'm kind of lost.
What an adventure. I've heard the over lighting too. Hard to say since everyone's stuff adjusts differently as you know, but maybe renting a PAR meter, setting "average" goals to get to over a few months, and go from there.
As far as the live rock, I know bacteria will coat but you loose a lot of surface area. Maybe if you choose to go back to something a marine pure block would be good. I'm considering trying those.
Flow I blast mine. But I think that depends on coral health. There's another post on flow now with some good discussion. I'll post the link.
As far as the live rock, I know bacteria will coat but you loose a lot of surface area. Maybe if you choose to go back to something a marine pure block would be good. I'm considering trying those.
Flow I blast mine. But I think that depends on coral health. There's another post on flow now with some good discussion. I'll post the link.
I was going to buy the apogee for leds but it seems they had a problem. No reef clubs around here or LFS that carry up to date stuff. So it's a lot of reading and guesstimating. I'm concentrating on feeding coral since I think the tank has been running too clean for a long time. Actually the very first tank was a bowfront bought from a LFS with an all in one hang in tank filter/skimmer that was out of business a couple years before purchase. Live and learn, what some pet stores will tell and sell you. Cracked across bottom, seeped out all night, corals and fish were mainly goners. It was so sad to see a healthy Purple tang paper white and flat. That tank cost me another 1200 to replace the bedroom carpet. This one is tank #3, star fire cube.
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
I like the look of full spectrum but now that I added some SPS I am considering changing to AB+. The Blues just enhance SPS corals at dusk...However, I don't like how the fish look under blue light and not sure I could handle that look all day.. So far I got my lights with below schedule. Blue to ramp up and blue to ramp down. full spectrum ramped up and down every hour.
So far corals seems happy so hopefully this helps with growth.
So far corals seems happy so hopefully this helps with growth.
AB+ is all blue channels at 100(blue, royal blue, violet and ultra violet) other channels at 24(red, green, cool white and warm white). This is on Gen 4 lights. Duration and intensity depend on your situation. I'm currently running this at 66 on intensity for 7.5 hours. Running 1.5 hours on front and back of AB+ as all blue at 30 intensity for viewing. You can also find AB+ on "schemes" in apex and cut and paste into your program. Hope this helps.
shawnriv
Active Member
I don't have the g4, but here mines. Using AB+ on G3 pro
Amazing growth and color! What intensity are your Radion's set at?
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