This is the new tank, Reefer 170, G4 Pro. Downsized from larger cube. Intensity 51%, brightness 75%, blues and violet @ 100%, whites @ 17%, green @15%, red @21%. Running 10 hr day, then moonlight. Other than the LPS there are 2 JF Homewreckers, the tip broke off and now I have the second, Matt V Orange Envy Tenuis, Blueberry from Big R, a CB XXX Fuego chalice that I glued to the side of the larger rock. One fish, only running a skimmer with co2 scrubber, feeding coral a variety of food, dosing Triton for other methods very sparingly. WC every two weeks @5%. Corals are popping. Latest p04 @ .05, Nitrate @ 23 on a Hanna UL Nitrite checker. When asking Hanna where the numbers should be on a reef tank they stated up to 100. They don't have a conversion. Coraline is going crazy.
Radion G4 SPS AB+??
- Thread starter wabooth555
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hyprc
Well-Known Member
Very nice. I've had the same tank up for just about 2 years now with a G4 XR-15 running a modified AB+ schedule and would LOVE to be able to grow acros but I'm very hesitant (montis grow slow... except for caps heh... green birds nest growing ok, same with a red digi). I feel like shading is my worst enemy, even with a diffuser.
hey guys wanna bump this up again because im confused how strong i have to set mine WITH the diffusers on em
Run 3 x G4Pro XR15 on a reefer 350 with my personal schedule 11 inch hung up above water line
Schedule:
UV 55%
Violet 75%
Royal 85%
Blue 85%
Coolwhite 19%
Warmwhite 5%
Green 5%
Red 7%
So on overall intensity 75% they run effectivley on about 36%
I have no PE on Acropora...
Montipora, Seriatopora etc. growin well
The water condisions are very good and stable, verified with monthly water analysis.
Could this be less light for Acros?
In best case: Is there anybody with a parmeter who could measure my schedule?
Run 3 x G4Pro XR15 on a reefer 350 with my personal schedule 11 inch hung up above water line
Schedule:
UV 55%
Violet 75%
Royal 85%
Blue 85%
Coolwhite 19%
Warmwhite 5%
Green 5%
Red 7%
So on overall intensity 75% they run effectivley on about 36%
I have no PE on Acropora...
Montipora, Seriatopora etc. growin well
The water condisions are very good and stable, verified with monthly water analysis.
Could this be less light for Acros?
In best case: Is there anybody with a parmeter who could measure my schedule?
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
If your light are at 36% (overall intensity) I think you have plenty of lights to grow acropora but a major factor people forget to mention is how long they are on for and what your nutrients and alk are at. I run 2 gen 4 at 6 hours around 36-40% intensity (3 hrs at 40%) During these 3 hours I turn of my 2 rows of t5 so total T5 are on for 6 hrs. Even before i added the T5 I have seeing many of my corals fade when I ran my radions above 40% at 6 hrs. Even with the corals 12-18" below water line I find that the highest par areas are between LED fixtures which I would reserve for only High light loving acros.
Generally, you can tell in 2-3 days if you have too much light. color will start to pale you can reduce photoperiod. Its kind of annoying that we have to kill corals to finally see the trends of too much or too little light but i've found new corals will grow and colorup in 100 PAR over 250-350 PAR. Better to work them up to the new par once they are acclimated to the tank gradually.
thanks for your reply.
Ive got two problems wich make it hard without a PAR-Meter.
1. The Diffusers that steal some PAR
2. The Placement in 11 Inch above waterline
its very hard to get an feeling now what loss in PAR this two points can affect
My overall is 36%, my brightness 77%
I run this Intensity für 5.5 hours, the rest to 12 hours i dim them and without whites reds and greens so they have only 5.5 hours really bright Light
Ive got two problems wich make it hard without a PAR-Meter.
1. The Diffusers that steal some PAR
2. The Placement in 11 Inch above waterline
its very hard to get an feeling now what loss in PAR this two points can affect
My overall is 36%, my brightness 77%
I run this Intensity für 5.5 hours, the rest to 12 hours i dim them and without whites reds and greens so they have only 5.5 hours really bright Light
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Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Looks good. I think your probably getting a lot more PAR to your acros then you may think. My guess is your corals (6" under water) are receiving anywhere from 250 to 400PAR. This kind of PAR coming from T5 or halides is not as bad but its almost like a laser coming from LED so can burn the corals faster. If you wanted to reduce your lighting just reduce your photoperiod or intensity slightly but don't change your spectrum. I found if you change your photoperiod or intensity slightly they won't take long to adjust to the new light but whenever I messed with the sprectrum then it took awhile for them to adjust. I found that the BRS investigates on the Gen4 SPSAB+ to be very accurate in what I was getting with my seneye PAR meter. It really helped me when I was acclimating new corals on frag rack and honestly could have used this video to get a ball park on where to move corals.
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Just to give you an idea how I run mine. 36% max intensity 3 hours. I've been tempted to change the AB+ spectrum but talked myself out of it. Adding T5 really added to the spectrum change and adjustment period of the tank. The radions are some powerful lights that PAR sometimes can be deceiving.
thanks alot man, so i think with about 40-44% i will be fine, thats 119Watts
I think this could be fine because of the missing T5 you have, the 11inch height and the diffusers
So your thoughts are to change spectrum as less as possible during the whole day?
I think this could be fine because of the missing T5 you have, the 11inch height and the diffusers
So your thoughts are to change spectrum as less as possible during the whole day?
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Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Its hard to say it may even be too much light for the rock structure closest to the surface. Run a search for BRS on youtube I think they did a good PAR test on a tank similar size with same light you'll know where you are 6" 12" and 18" below water line. Regarding spectrum i mean do not change the color channels your tank is used to. If you don't like the way it looks change it one last time and never mess with it again. Adjusting photoperiod and intensity slightly is easier for corals to adjust since in the wild intensity and photoperiod is changing anyways, however, I doubt the sun is changing up the blues and reds on a daily basis. Hope this helps let us know how it goes.
My corals in the middle of the 2 radions faded as can be seen in this picture. Alot of these corals bleached and died but the corals on the outside and lower areas did fine.
My corals in the middle of the 2 radions faded as can be seen in this picture. Alot of these corals bleached and died but the corals on the outside and lower areas did fine.
thanks alot will keep you up 2 date.
Sonething else. I know you US Guys love the SPS AB+.
For me its an schedule i would never run. The way to high UV,Violets and Reds will stress your corals very hard so they get off their zooxhanthellae while having the intensity that high they would need it for good PAR results.
For my person, the ecotech schedules are really harmful in most of the tanks, not in every but especially in low nutrient tanks.
The greens that high is not necessary and cause algea. The corals dont thrive of that 500nm
The only sitatuon i would maybe try that schedule would be with lamps +30inch obove water line so the shortlenght waves are not es near at the corals
Sonething else. I know you US Guys love the SPS AB+.
For me its an schedule i would never run. The way to high UV,Violets and Reds will stress your corals very hard so they get off their zooxhanthellae while having the intensity that high they would need it for good PAR results.
For my person, the ecotech schedules are really harmful in most of the tanks, not in every but especially in low nutrient tanks.
The greens that high is not necessary and cause algea. The corals dont thrive of that 500nm
The only sitatuon i would maybe try that schedule would be with lamps +30inch obove water line so the shortlenght waves are not es near at the corals
Screwloose
New Member
I've just switched to the sps ab+
Using the 7 hour photoperiod with an hour ramp either end 55% at the mo, 7 hours enough ?
Also ran higher in the past and burned corals, but have been running a program off another reefer since Christmas, and although corals seem ok, and colours are ok...just felt like something missing
Using the 7 hour photoperiod with an hour ramp either end 55% at the mo, 7 hours enough ?
Also ran higher in the past and burned corals, but have been running a program off another reefer since Christmas, and although corals seem ok, and colours are ok...just felt like something missing
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
I think you should fine, I ran mine up to 70% for 6 hrs until i added 2 rows of T5 then had to reduce them to around 40% 3 hours per day and 36% the remaining 3 hr. I've noticed the corals take about 2 months to adjust anytime you mess with the lights, My tank was finally adjusted to the radions on there own but adding T5 the entire process started again, Ironically only coral that really tanked is a monti cap that was already in relatively low PAR, i'll be able to save it but gonna take 3 months for it to rebound. Try to setit and forget it. If you going to mess with anything just mess with the photoperiod, if its too much light change it to 4 or 5 hrs max then work your way up back up to 7 - This is more natural as daily photoperiods are changing in the wild.
Screwloose
New Member
Thanks Ashish,
Yeh I always worry it's not long enough after 10 hour days with t5 and halides in the past,
I'm going to try my best to stick with it for at least a few months, give time to adjust etc.
I may let it go up to around 65 percent over a few weeks.
I ran at 14k when I first got them 18 months ago, and within a few weeks my tank looked like scorched earth, even though visually it was no brighter than the 8 x 80 w ati they had replaced....
Thanks
Nev
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
T5 and Halides are great in that we only have 2 options when it comes to adjustments (photoperiod and coral placement). If your not used to LED I would start on the lower end and after 2-3 days if majority of your corals have too much light they will start to fade so that would be a good sign to significantly reduce you photoperiod or intensity. If everything looks good and a few corals look faded then just move them somewhere else. I started my radions at 100% all channels and I had a PAR meter which told me I was getting 250-350 PAR near my rockscape so this is where I started, looking back I would never listen to anyone else advice on lighting, just observe your corals they will tell you in few days if they need more light or have too much light.
Screwloose
New Member
looks great ;SpidermanI don't have the g4, but here mines. Using AB+ on G3 pro
what percentage are you running of schedule, and are you using the 7 hour full photo period with an hour either side, or have you changed it ?
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