First thing I noticed is it's up on your rockwork, and hadonni is a sand dwellar, not sure what's up there.
If it had a bacterial infection, it would not have lasted 4mo at LFS, so something happened from that point if LFS is being straight w/ you.
I don't know what the issue is from here, it sounds like you put a bit of faith in LFS to test for you, not the best idea usually, not sure what or how accurate their tests are.
People that get sensitive anemone's should be testing w/ quality kits on their own, and I would never get a sensitive anemone w/out having cipro on hand, and all nems really should be qt'd and observed before placing in display, infections can pass to other nems, and it's least invasive to treat right away when in QT
No, Its actually pure sand, look closer..
Was In sand as deep as the rock work, one point was footed on the glass on the very bottom.
Now on the lower sand-bed In between a glass pane center brace for light diffusion.
Hello, fellow reefers.. The plot thickens!
Went to the LFS today to get a Sailfert Test kit/had them test my water to:
LFS: Sailfert
Calcium: 420
Mag-1400
Alk 8.0
Salanity 1.024
Nitrate 0.1
Phosphate 0.1
Me: Sailfert
Calcium 420
Mag 1400
Alk 8.0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
So water quality Is obviously not the issue, well, not entirely..
My LFS thinks the tank could be to clean, never let anyone tell you to get a skimmer to have a clean system.
Their LED where at 100% power with 4 blue pluss t5 bulbs..Only Blue spectrums.
Mine was at 50% power 15% white 10% red 20% green 100% blue 70% UV Viloet 100% Royal 50%
Now my lights are at about 80% power, but the anemone Is much lower and between the lights instead of under them.
The new light recipe Is: 75% UV 80% Violet Royal 90% Blue 90% 0% green 0% red 0% white..
I also bought two blue plus bulbs.
My hydra lights start at 1 ramp up to full at 4, then start to ramp down at 7, to turn off completely by 10pm.
The blue plus will turn on between 4-7
I attached a picture of the anemone In the tank this morning before lights come-on..