Red Planet (?) problem...

[ant.anestis]

Hello all!

I have a Red Planet acro (at least, that's what my friend who gave it to me told me that it is) for two months now. As you can see in the photos, it's not doing very well... It has some white parts (with red polyps though). Does anybody now what it could be? The polyp extension is good but, it could definitely be much better. I have quite high NO3. There was a PO4 problem but I solved it. My main question is if it can be saved and If there is a possibility that it is from too much lighting. The hyacinthus which is bit lower in the tank, goes just fine as you can see... Any help much appreciated... Good flow (2 reef waves 25 at random up to 100%), 5 orphek bars (3 blue plus, 2 reef day), full lighting for 7,5 hours a day, 13 hours cycle. Red Sea Reefer 250.

PS. Don't mind the bubble algae, started vibrant 3 weeks ago. I guess that's what happens if you don't quarantine...

My parameters are:

KH 8
CA 450
MAG 1335
PO4 0.037
NO3 approx. 60
PH between 7.8 and 8.15 (Apex)
Salinity 1.025
Temp 25.5 Celsius

 

[i cant think]

Hello all!

I have a Red Planet acro (at least, that's what my friend who gave it to me told me that it is) for two months now. As you can see in the photos, it's not doing very well... It has some white parts (with red polyps though). Does anybody now what it could be? The polyp extension is good but, it could definitely be much better. I have quite high NO3. There was a PO4 problem but I solved it. My main question is if it can be saved and If there is a possibility that it is from too much lighting. The hyacinthus which is bit lower in the tank, goes just fine as you can see... Any help much appreciated... Good flow (2 reef waves 25 at random up to 100%), 5 orphek bars (3 blue plus, 2 reef day), full lighting for 7,5 hours a day, 13 hours cycle. Red Sea Reefer 250.

PS. Don't mind the bubble algae, started vibrant 3 weeks ago. I guess that's what happens if you don't quarantine...

My parameters are:

KH 8
CA 450
MAG 1335
PO4 0.037
NO3 approx. 60
PH between 7.8 and 8.15 (Apex)
Salinity 1.025
Temp 25.5 Celsius

To me, it can be saved, just a bit of working with the light and make sure every parameter is in check.

 

[ant.anestis]

To me, it can be saved, just a bit of working with the light and make sure every parameter is in check.

Thank you. What do you mean "a bit of working with the light"? What is you suggestion? Turn off 1 of the 2 white bars? Change the schedule from 7,5 hours to 4-5 for example?

 

[i cant think]

Thank you. What do you mean "a bit of working with the light"? What is you suggestion? Turn off 1 of the 2 white bars? Change the schedule from 7,5 hours to 4-5 for example?

I messed with mine and they have around 5% white and 85% blues - The water looks cyanic now but the coral have a bunch of colour, both from when they’re under whites and under blues.

 

[ant.anestis]

Sounds great! But, what lighting do you have and what corals do you keep? Any SPS? What about growth?

 

[Grapefruit509]

Ive got some chalice and goniopora that were very white, I was increasing my lighting by maybe 5% each week and they didn't like that, move the acro lower in the tank and watch the color, I lost a pink millipora after moving it up maybe 6 inches from the sand bed where it was, lost color on the section facing upwards towards the light, died a day after I noticed even after placing back on sand bed

 

[Grapefruit509]

 

[Grapefruit509]

The Millipore behind the acro turned to dead stone, and both the chalice and goniopora are supposed to be deep red

 

[Grapefruit509]

It's a mixed reef 30 gal inno marine with vipar (spectra?) On 50% blues and whites

 

[ant.anestis]

Ive got some chalice and goniopora that were very white, I was increasing my lighting by maybe 5% each week and they didn't like that, move the acro lower in the tank and watch the color, I lost a pink millipora after moving it up maybe 6 inches from the sand bed where it was, lost color on the section facing upwards towards the light, died a day after I noticed even after placing back on sand bed

Thank you! But before moving the coral (since its already stressed), I would like to see if small changes (eg. 1 less reef day OR bar) would help it recover. I think that I should try one thing at a time; and I feel anxious about moving a stressed acro...

 

[Grapefruit509]

Thank you! But before moving the coral (since its already stressed), I would like to see if small changes (eg. 1 less reef day OR bar) would help it recover. I think that I should try one thing at a time; and I feel anxious about moving a stressed acro...

Glued in?

 

[ant.anestis]

Glued in?

Yes

 

[Grapefruit509]

I should add

 

[ScottB]

If you have other acro that are doing fine, I would not change things up for a new piece. It is not unusual for a new piece to be unsettled, especially if the params are different from the former tank. Your other corals are used to 60ppm NO3, this one may not be.

It is worth working that nitrate number down super gradually. It will help your PO4 come up a little bit.

Hanna has an error range +-.02 so I would not want PO4 to go any lower, unless you feed fish frequently.

 

[Grapefruit509]

I had the small stylo in that Crack above the orange pavona for months, I just put it back into the sand bed about a week or 2 ago and the whites are fading, the bigger one was placed just about an inch above the small one further back, and never looked very good, both on the sand now and the colors seem to be returning, the glass is very dirty rn sorry. They were also not glued in nor acroporas, you do you homie idk tbh the true outcomes, just make sure it doesn't fade white in a complete circuit or it may start stn rtn good luck

 

[Grapefruit509]

You could place something above the tank to slightly shade that section of coral if you want, a mesh square or something you could leave on the tank cover if you have one

 

[ant.anestis]

If you have other acro that are doing fine, I would not change things up for a new piece. It is not unusual for a new piece to be unsettled, especially if the params are different from the former tank. Your other corals are used to 60ppm NO3, this one may not be.

It is worth working that nitrate number down super gradually. It will help your PO4 come up a little bit.

Hanna has an error range +-.02 so I would not want PO4 to go any lower, unless you feed fish frequently.

I agree. And that's what I'm trying to do; lower the NO3 slowly. My main question is if it would help to reduce the lighting hours for the whites (from 8 to 5 hours maybe). Or maybe, turn off 1 of 2 reef day bars.