Red Sea Seam Failures - Discussion

[UncommonSense]

I am adding an extra strip along the back and then moving the tank back to the front glass is sitting on top of the rubber

How do you plan to get your plumbing to fit?

Bulkhead hole rim to bottom pane edge measurement on these tanks is typically 1/2”-3/4” tops… then there’s a load bearing 3/4” panel of particle board for the rear glass pane to rest directly over… scooting the tank back even 1/2” to get your front pane edge supported means your plumbing will effectively be an interference fit with the stand’s load bearing rear panel…

You're right, and I believe it's a combination of low quality silicon, but also a poor application process.

Definitely questionable silicone, possibly poor application or glass prep… it’s worth noting that the G2 525XL I broke down to panes a few months back after it fully unzipped the right front seam at 3am had a factory removable aluminum extrusion brace front-centered in the sump compartment! (I recall this being a “fix” RS sent out to customers in an attempt to save face and keep sales up)

I'm still in the camp of the glass ALSO being of poor chemistry. Cheap Chinese quick and out the door it goes.

I’ve got some theories here, but need to literally take a microscope to Red Sea silicone samples I’ve saved from G1 and G2 autopsies, plus a hopeful upcoming G2+ autopsy to learn more…

(long story short, cheap fillers with no actual performance or appearance benefit can be added to silicone to increase the total silicone volume available at minimum extra cost… a common filler is calcium carbonate… I’m currently working out how to get a decent view of both core samples and glass boundary layer samples under a microscope, allowing me to examine the latter for craters/pores, and acid test the former to observe for a microscopic chemical reaction…)

 

[Reginald Reefer III]

How do you plan to get your plumbing to fit?

Bulkhead hole rim to bottom pane edge measurement on these tanks is typically 1/2”-3/4” tops… then there’s a load bearing 3/4” panel of particle board for the rear glass pane to rest directly over… scooting the tank back even 1/2” to get your front pane edge supported means your plumbing will effectively be an interference fit with the stand’s load bearing rear panel…


Definitely questionable silicone, possibly poor application or glass prep… it’s worth noting that the G2 525XL I broke down to panes a few months back after it fully unzipped the right front seam at 3am had a factory removable aluminum extrusion brace front-centered in the sump compartment! (I recall this being a “fix” RS sent out to customers in an attempt to save face and keep sales up)



I’ve got some theories here, but need to literally take a microscope to Red Sea silicone samples I’ve saved from G1 and G2 autopsies, plus a hopeful upcoming G2+ autopsy to learn more…

(long story short, cheap fillers with no actual performance or appearance benefit can be added to silicone to increase the total silicone volume available at minimum extra cost… a common filler is calcium carbonate… I’m currently working out how to get a decent view of both core samples and glass boundary layer samples under a microscope, allowing me to examine the latter for craters/pores, and acid test the former to observe for a microscopic chemical reaction…)

Someone is getting warm

 

[13rodo]

How do you plan to get your plumbing to fit?

Bulkhead hole rim to bottom pane edge measurement on these tanks is typically 1/2”-3/4” tops… then there’s a load bearing 3/4” panel of particle board for the rear glass pane to rest directly over… scooting the tank back even 1/2” to get your front pane edge supported means your plumbing will effectively be an interference fit with the stand’s load bearing rear panel…


Definitely questionable silicone, possibly poor application or glass prep… it’s worth noting that the G2 525XL I broke down to panes a few months back after it fully unzipped the right front seam at 3am had a factory removable aluminum extrusion brace front-centered in the sump compartment! (I recall this being a “fix” RS sent out to customers in an attempt to save face and keep sales up)



I’ve got some theories here, but need to literally take a microscope to Red Sea silicone samples I’ve saved from G1 and G2 autopsies, plus a hopeful upcoming G2+ autopsy to learn more…

(long story short, cheap fillers with no actual performance or appearance benefit can be added to silicone to increase the total silicone volume available at minimum extra cost… a common filler is calcium carbonate… I’m currently working out how to get a decent view of both core samples and glass boundary layer samples under a microscope, allowing me to examine the latter for craters/pores, and acid test the former to observe for a microscopic chemical reaction…)

The army of red sea spies are probably trying to hunt you down at this point

 

[RobertK]

This area of what seems like a simple ikea particle board stand in my opinion is severely under built and prone to sagging and seal stress.

there’s a load bearing 3/4” panel of particle board for the rear glass pane to rest directly over

I've never owned a Red Sea tank and never will, but the thought of any aquarium stand made of particle board sends chills down my spine. I had to take down my old tank last year due to an impending disaster with a particle board stand. Particle board does not belong in the same room as water, let alone under a glass box filled with it!

 

[NYCBOB]

My lfs redsea g1 is still going strong. the owner said its most liekly caused by unlevel tank or people scraping too close to the silicon when cleaning.

 

[PPBlimpy]

I am sure there are plenty of G1s out in the wild still. there are many factors but my #1 is the silicone. I believe I mentioned earlier in this thread that cutting a RS seam is like cutting thru butter. I have broke down numerous RS leakers and rebuilt them. Actually looking for one currently to build a frag tank.

Even a petco special aqueon tank takes some muscle to cut thru the seams.

The G1 stands were crap. I have a g2 s1000 with the aluminum frame. Its nice but I personally feel it is still on the small side.

As soon as I see a seal going the tank is coming down for a full rebuild.

To the best of my knowledge the G3 tanks are manufactured exactly the same with the same silicone as the G2. The stands and plumbing were updated for the G3. This is what I have gathered from online and local tanks. guy has a G3 s1000 locally and the tank is identical to my G2.