- Joined
- May 4, 2025
- Messages
- 4,984
- Reaction score
- 6,044
- Location
- Monterey Bay area, California
- What state or country do you live in
- California
How do you plan to get your plumbing to fit?I am adding an extra strip along the back and then moving the tank back to the front glass is sitting on top of the rubber
Bulkhead hole rim to bottom pane edge measurement on these tanks is typically 1/2”-3/4” tops… then there’s a load bearing 3/4” panel of particle board for the rear glass pane to rest directly over… scooting the tank back even 1/2” to get your front pane edge supported means your plumbing will effectively be an interference fit with the stand’s load bearing rear panel…
Definitely questionable silicone, possibly poor application or glass prep… it’s worth noting that the G2 525XL I broke down to panes a few months back after it fully unzipped the right front seam at 3am had a factory removable aluminum extrusion brace front-centered in the sump compartment! (I recall this being a “fix” RS sent out to customers in an attempt to save face and keep sales up)You're right, and I believe it's a combination of low quality silicon, but also a poor application process.
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I'm still in the camp of the glass ALSO being of poor chemistry. Cheap Chinese quick and out the door it goes.
I’ve got some theories here, but need to literally take a microscope to Red Sea silicone samples I’ve saved from G1 and G2 autopsies, plus a hopeful upcoming G2+ autopsy to learn more…
(long story short, cheap fillers with no actual performance or appearance benefit can be added to silicone to increase the total silicone volume available at minimum extra cost… a common filler is calcium carbonate… I’m currently working out how to get a decent view of both core samples and glass boundary layer samples under a microscope, allowing me to examine the latter for craters/pores, and acid test the former to observe for a microscopic chemical reaction…)

