Reef Octopus Classic 1000 HOB

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JimCali75

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Just set up a Reef Octopus Classic 1000 HOB on my 40g breeder frag tank. Tank has only been cycled a little over a month. Seems like a well built unit. The huge white intake/outlet baskets are a little obnoxious. I see some versions (newer?) with black baskets and they look to be a little smaller. Might have to see about ordering a couple. Assembly was pretty straightforward but getting it running gave me fits. When I plugged it in it immediately started to overflow from the return chamber (left side) Had to dive to the floor to unplug it.. lol. I was plugging the airline to prime it as instructed. Tried several times with the same results. Finally I took off the return pipe/basket leaving just the elbow. This kept it from overflowing as water poured out of the return into the tank like a water faucet. At this point I was able to slide the pipe and basket back on and it continued to work fine. I’m a little confused as to what height the return basket should be? Fully submerged or partially breaking the surface like the intake side? Even with the slats breaking the surface the end of the pipe inside is still submerged. And I assume that’s how it’s meant to be. Clearly being fully submerged on startup was causing it to overflow. But once it gets going you can put the basket back on and it won’t overflow even with the return submerged. There were a few people with the same exact issue going in circles with CoralVue support. CorlVue just kept citing chemical reactions as the cause. That’s not what’s going on here. Totally had to do with the return pipe being submerged. This is concerning especially in the case of a power outage. If I’m not here to remove the return pipe/basket before power is restored will it overflow when starting back up?? Anyways, sorry for rambling. Here’s where I’m at now. The return basket is just slightly breaking the surface. Bubbles/foam are a little less messy this way. I think once broken in the bubbling will subside and I can lower it a bit? Any of your experiences with this skimmer would be appreciated.
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I’m not going to be much help with tuning but I can suggest that you simulate a power outage and test the system for a restart while you’re there to supervise the process.

You may need to “dive back onto the floor” again? Hopefully you can find a sweet spot where it’s safe to walk away from it when it’s working properly.
 
Absolutely.. For the time being I’m unplugging it while at work. I live in the mountains so brief power outages aren’t uncommon. I know they’re unpredictable while breaking in but overflowing from the return chamber every time power is restored is a non starter.
 
I have a classic 100HOB; it employs a T instead of an elbow on the return plumbing… Presumably to prevent the exact issue you’re experiencing!

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That’s interesting.. I almost went with that model but decided I didn’t want the pump in the tank. I feel like it’s either user error or it has something to do with breaking in. I can’t believe they would use this design for so long if it was the elbow causing it?
 
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That’s interesting.. I almost went with that model but decided I didn’t want the pump in the tank. I feel like it’s either user error or it has something to do with breaking in. I can’t believe they would use this design for so if it was the elbow causing it?
My buddy had the classic1000 with the black baskets… I seem to recall it had a similar issue on occasion, but that was years ago!

in theory, the tee on the classic 100 I have is serving to prevent any back-pressure from bubbles trapped in the return plumbing (burping them out of the plumbing from the highest point), in addition to preventing a siphon from starting from the return plumbing periodically!


I’m not sure if performance would be adversely affected if the water height in the return chamber of the skimmer was lower… but you could always try drilling a small hole in the top of that return elbow?
 
My buddy had the classic1000 with the black baskets… I seem to recall it had a similar issue on occasion, but that was years ago!

in theory, the tee on the classic 100 I have is serving to prevent any back-pressure from bubbles trapped in the return plumbing (burping them out of the plumbing from the highest point), in addition to preventing a siphon from starting from the return plumbing periodically!


I’m not sure if performance would be adversely affected if the water height in the return chamber of the skimmer was lower… but you could always try drilling a small hole in the top of that return elbow?
Thanks for your input… I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps drill a 1/4” hole at the bend on the elbow? They actually sell a replacement elbow for the 100. No picture so I’m not sure if it’s the T or if it would even fit the 1000. I’m going to try and contact CoralVue before I start drilling. An old support thread with the same issue.

https://support.coralvue.com/614513-classic-1000-hang-on-back-overflowing
 
Thanks for your input… I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps drill a 1/4” hole at the bend on the elbow? They actually sell a replacement elbow for the 100. No picture so I’m not sure if it’s the T or if it would even fit the 1000. I’m going to try and contact CoralVue before I start drilling. An old support thread with the same issue.

https://support.coralvue.com/614513-classic-1000-hang-on-back-overflowing
The plumbing is all just standard metric pipe/fittings in grey! —metric plumbing is measured by pipe OD (in MM)…

Why not just order a short length of metric pipe and a metric tee in whatever size it is? (Likely 25mm)

(assuming CoralVue can’t help you, of course!)
 
The plumbing is all just standard metric pipe/fittings in grey! —metric plumbing is measured by pipe OD (in MM)…

Why not just order a short length of metric pipe and a metric tee in whatever size it is? (Likely 25mm)

(assuming CoralVue can’t help you, of course!)
Just sent a support ticket. We’ll see what they say. Just may end up going this route. I’ll update with their response. Thx again!
 

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