reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Bigtrout]

Yes, (I think) I'm using the RPI. Let me check the config doc.

Thanks

Its under config>>settings

Play with the rpi frequency...reload reef pi after each change

 

[sjeff35]

Its under config>>settings

Play with the rpi frequency...reload reef pi after each change

Got it working last night, had to bump the freq up to 200 and play with the min/start settings.

Thanks @Bigtrout

 

[Schreiber]

Working on cleaning my board up & adding float sensors, rather than an optical one. Anyone feel like giving this diagram a look to see if everything looks good? Mainly concerned with the wiring to the float switches. Also considering trying out a 7805 regulator, rather than a buck converter to see how it works out.

 

[Ranjib]

Working on cleaning my board up & adding float sensors, rather than an optical one. Anyone feel like giving this diagram a look to see if everything looks good? Mainly concerned with the wiring to the float switches. Also considering trying out a 7805 regulator, rather than a buck converter to see how it works out.

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I have connected the red wire (ground) to gpio 39. Blue wire (vcc) to gpio 2 and White wire signal to gpio 23. Check period is 10 secs and have tried both reverse and normal mode. Yellow wire I have left unconnected

If you're using an optical sensor without an appropriate circuit(resistors), ie. plugging it in directly, it will not function as intended and will constantly trip. That's the issue I had with my optical sensors when I got them; I didn't have appropriate resistors to go with it.

Once the resistors are added, it functions as it should. Also, if it's an ebay sensor there's also a possibility it isn't wired/color coordinated to any particular standard. See if there's any documentation that comes with it.

 

[Schreiber]

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

That's my plan. The buck converters simply take up too much room in my opinion, especially when I'm not planning on using the 10V one for light dimming.

I had originally planed on only using 1 resistor, but split into 2 to be safe. Sounds like I should be fine reverting to 1 for simplicity's sake, thanks!

 

[Schreiber]

Looks good to me. You are using a linear regulator for 12v to 5v conversion?
The float switch circuit will be fine even if you just use one resistor instead of two.

Actually, I'm looking at it with just 1 resistor & I don't see how it would work. If there's only a single resistor, wouldn't it pull both float switch inputs to ground even if only one of them triggered?

 

[Ranjib]

That's my plan. The buck converters simply take up too much room in my opinion, especially when I'm not planning on using the 10V one for light dimming.

I had originally planed on only using 1 resistor, but split into 2 to be safe. Sounds like I should be fine reverting to 1 for simplicity's sake, thanks!

the lm2596 are rated for 3 Amp. Which is why i prefer them, they are efficient and doesnot need heatsinks. Just verify that your overall current draw is within bounds and you have heating sorted out

 

[Ranjib]

Actually, I'm looking at it with just 1 resistor & I don't see how it would work. If there's only a single resistor, wouldn't it pull both float switch inputs to ground even if only one of them triggered?

See how S1 is wired, float switch can be wired same way. This is enough for addressing floating ground. The other resistor provide safety from cases where the input (S1) has power (by accident). this is highly unlikey in your case i.e. you are unlikely to plugin something that has power (say a dc power supply ) in the ato sensor connector.

This is my primitive understanding :-) , i'll let others chime in.

 

[Schreiber]

See how S1 is wired, float switch can be wired same way. This is enough for addressing floating ground. The other resistor provide safety from cases where the input (S1) has power (by accident). this is highly unlikey in your case i.e. you are unlikely to plugin something that has power (say a dc power supply ) in the ato sensor connector.

This is my primitive understanding :) , i'll let others chime in.

Ohhhhhh, I see what you're saying. I thought you meant I didn't need 2 10k ohm resistors. Yeah, I figured the 1k resistor was a bit extra, but felt it was worth including.

 

[b4tn]

Anyone have any success using an older Apple device (ios9) to access the reefpi website? I was all excited that I found my old iPad mini 1. It’s the perfect size to use as a screen on my stand for reefpi. I got it all cleaned up and safari refuses to load the webpage. I tried both http and https and it just loads to a white page. I can use the iPad to get to any other webpage, Facebook, YouTube, etc just not reefpi. VNC works but that’s a pain. I also tried several other web browser from the App Store and all the same just loads to a white page.

 

[BenB]

if you have https enabled type the whole adress:

https://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:80
For the xxx use the ip adress of your pi.

Make sure that you use the correct ip, when dhcp is enabled in your router it is possible your pi got a different ip adess

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Type of the device shouldn't matter as it's a standard http/https web UI. As long as it has a browser it should be able to access. As BenB mentioned, I would double check the internal/local IP of your reef pi as router DHCP can and likely will assign a different ip unless you have one reserved/specified in the DHCP table.

 

[b4tn]

I forgot to mention, I can get to the pi webpage on any device accept the older iPad. So I know the ip and address works. I’m wondering if maybe the pi webserver uses some sort of script not supported by older apple web browser? Or maybe I will instead of the IP address try the local name. I think I recall sometime back Simeon was having issue on an apple device and had to use a different format for the address.

 

[Ranjib]

I forgot to mention, I can get to the pi webpage on any device accept the older iPad. So I know the ip and address works. I’m wondering if maybe the pi webserver uses some sort of script not supported by older apple web browser? Or maybe I will instead of the IP address try the local name. I think I recall sometime back Simeon was having issue on an apple device and had to use a different format for the address.

That’s definitely possible. Let’s take baby steps for debugging this. Did you update the iOS on this device ? If possible install google chrome and try that as well. Use incognito mode or private mode and try to access the website from there.

 

[b4tn]

That’s definitely possible. Let’s take baby steps for debugging this. Did you update the iOS on this device ? If possible install google chrome and try that as well. Use incognito mode or private mode and try to access the website from there.

It’s the most recent iOS available for the mini 1 which is 9.3.6. Unfortunately chrome and firefox are not supported in iOS 9 so they won’t even install from the App Store. I did download a few different browsers but they all did the same thing. I just tried in private mode and get the same result. It says something along the lines of untrusted cert.. you hit continue anyway and the progress bar loads then stops at a blank white screen. No password Dialog box. I also tried https://MyReef.local and it loads like you would expect but finishes on a white screen again. I get the same result not using SSL.

 

[Ranjib]

Modelling the new enclosure for my reef-pi 2.0 DB9 based power controller. This is a pi 3 A, one lm2596, db9 connector, power button, temp and ato sensor (audio jack) based build. The mock components inside the enclosure is only there to create proper mounting holes, space consideration. Blender is pretty awesome. I have notched up my design little bit by adding bevels in all corener, it gives smoother edges and improves 3d printing experience (less warping) .

 

[Urtoo]

if you have https enabled type the whole adress:

https://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:80
For the xxx use the ip adress of your pi.

Make sure that you use the correct ip, when dhcp is enabled in your router it is possible your pi got a different ip adess

This just saved a me a reload. After I clicked HTTPS and then it would give the logon screen and was unable to click the login.
OH yeah, I am starting a Zero W build right now. Got 13 new frags from Aquashella so I will be starting to geek out as well... cannot sleep, but I can type and get this working.

 

[Ranjib]

Tinkering with the enclosure designs, adding a new set of brackets for mounting.

Once deployed , it will hold the enclosure like this

Making it easy to change or handle the controller. I’m curious if it’s better to have the left and right side separate or have a single part bracket instade?

 

[Urtoo]

What are the print bed dimensions of that box? I only have a claim delta regular, I think Santa is coming this year with a new prusa...