reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

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Ranjib

Ranjib

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I'm also having a problem on Buster (mine is with 3.0) on a Pi Zero build. It's a clean install and I've tried 2 cards. Both have worked ok, am able to setup config etc, but then it get into a cycle where it works for 5 minutes to an hour or two (random) and then reboots. No errors that I can see in the logs. I'm trying to troubleshoot but reading through some of the forums, it seems like Buster is not particularly stable, especially on older / smaller pi's. I'm going to downgrade this weekend and see if that fixes it.
wow.. thats good to know . I have couple of new builds running on buster. So far no hiccups. But its only two weeks.
 
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Ranjib

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Are you running any on Pi Zeros?
Yes. One of them. Actually I had three buster based build running (all in testing phase, against the garage tank). Two are pi 3. The pi zero one i just took offline for some rework.I think I'll have the telemetry data (prometheus/grafana), if theres any obvious performance/system issue it should be visible on those metrics. I can see stretch and buster based build performance.. from app layer to low level syscalls.
 

PHopkins

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I am glad that this is working for you. I have been toying around with the idea of modifying the circuit to add a channel cutoff utilizing the 3rd wire from the dimmer to the driver. I have the 32" basic and I wired all of the power into a single plug so that I can control the unit from a single relay. However since the channels will not dim to 0, I would like another way to turn them off individually without using extra relays/plugs.
Also, here is a fritzing diagram of the circuit to help others.
Custom Dimming Circuit Updated.jpg



I would have to look at it again, but since you are essentially shorting the output of the 10v to GND through the NPN, I think you would have issues trying to run it through a single 10V regulator. I want to mock this up now though.



Am I missing something on how these have shorted out for other people?
If the VDC is on the tip conductor of the jack, there should be no way for it to hit any other conductor. The other two conductors are the data pin and GND. What am I missing?

I am currently trying to run a RB light with a MarsAqua. The mars has to run on Active High, where the RB with this circuit has to run on Active Low? Is there a mod to this circuit that allows me to run them on the same lighting channel without them being opposite of each other?
 
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Ranjib

Ranjib

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I am currently trying to run a RB light with a MarsAqua. The mars has to run on Active High, where the RB with this circuit has to run on Active Low? Is there a mod to this circuit that allows me to run them on the same lighting channel without them being opposite of each other?
There’s an active high/low setting per channel. That should do it
 

PHopkins

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There’s an active high/low setting per channel. That should do it
I am getting no PWM output from the PCA9685 board

when I run sudo i2cdetect -y 1 I get the following, which I believe. But when I set an output to my lights I get 0v from the pins. What is not set up correctly? I get a PWM signal from the Rasberry Pi pins but not the PCA board



0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f
00: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
10: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
20: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
40: 40 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
50: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
60: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
70: 70 -- -- -- -- -- -- --
 

Michael Lane

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I am getting no PWM output from the PCA9685 board

when I run sudo i2cdetect -y 1 I get the following, which I believe. But when I set an output to my lights I get 0v from the pins. What is not set up correctly? I get a PWM signal from the Rasberry Pi pins but not the PCA board



0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f
00: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
10: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
20: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
40: 40 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
50: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
60: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
70: 70 -- -- -- -- -- -- --
That's good output from i2cdetect. The next thing I would check is to make sure the checkbox to enable PCA9685 is checked.
 

PHopkins

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It should be under the configuration | settings tab.
1569290946546.png
Thank you, I figured it out. I don't know if I have an older style board, or if it was just something left out in the guide. But I put 3.3v power to the V+ input on the board and it started working. So I just put a jumper between the VCC and V+ input on the opposite side of the board
 
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Ranjib

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Hi to all just a simple Question,could we use DHT22 temp sensor,(beside DS1820)just to see room temp and humidity.?Thank you
Unfortunately, reef-pi only supports ds18b20 sensors right now for temperature monitoring.
 

brandon clow

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Yes. One of them. Actually I had three buster based build running (all in testing phase, against the garage tank). Two are pi 3. The pi zero one i just took offline for some rework.I think I'll have the telemetry data (prometheus/grafana), if theres any obvious performance/system issue it should be visible on those metrics. I can see stretch and buster based build performance.. from app layer to low level syscalls.
Yes. One of them. Actually I had three buster based build running (all in testing phase, against the garage tank). Two are pi 3. The pi zero one i just took offline for some rework.I think I'll have the telemetry data (prometheus/grafana), if theres any obvious performance/system issue it should be visible on those metrics. I can see stretch and buster based build performance.. from app layer to low level syscalls.
I can say that I am having success with buster on a 4B 2gb at about 3 weeks in. If I can get my 3B rev 1.2 back up and running I will report the results also.
 
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sfgabe

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I'm also having a problem on Buster (mine is with 3.0) on a Pi Zero build. It's a clean install and I've tried 2 cards. Both have worked ok, am able to setup config etc, but then it get into a cycle where it works for 5 minutes to an hour or two (random) and then reboots. No errors that I can see in the logs. I'm trying to troubleshoot but reading through some of the forums, it seems like Buster is not particularly stable, especially on older / smaller pi's. I'm going to downgrade this weekend and see if that fixes it.
Just a follow up - as a last resort before downgrading I swapped out a new-out-of-the-package zero and it has been working flawlessly. I'm coming up on about two years of having various tiny smart systems in my house working on Pi Zero W's and it seems like after a while something shorts out somewhere. Maybe I just got a bad bunch, but I'm glad my reef system is on a pi 3, as the full size ones seem to be more consistent.
 
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Ranjib

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Some of my pi zeros are running for almost two years. I have lot less pi 3 based builds, compared to zeros. I guess I was lucky. I got another new pi zero today.. I'll see how that goes
 

MikeSpike

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Excuse my ignorance here. Trying to get the aTO module to work but it just leaves the outlet on (even if I set it to off manually it just goes back to on) I have just connected it straight to the GPio pins. ? I have not used any resistors please let me know if this is required or you think it’s something ekse
 
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Ranjib

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Excuse my ignorance here. Trying to get the aTO module to work but it just leaves the outlet on (even if I set it to off manually it just goes back to on) I have just connected it straight to the GPio pins. ? I have not used any resistors please let me know if this is required or you think it’s something ekse
tell us little bit about your setup, what sensor, inlet configuration, check period etc. Is it working in reverse mode?
 

MikeSpike

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I have connected the red wire (ground) to gpio 39. Blue wire (vcc) to gpio 2 and White wire signal to gpio 23. Check period is 10 secs and have tried both reverse and normal mode. Yellow wire I have left unconnected
 

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