reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

inktomi

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Pca9685 generates 3-5v pwm signal, you have to pass it through an intermediate circuit (similar to kessil controller) to convert it 10v. Ldd series mean we’ll drivers will work straight with 5v pwm

Good point. Unlike the Kessil lights these panels actually dim based on their input power - they don't have a separate input for a dimming controller. Since I need to run two banks of lights, I don't think the LDD series will work - they seem to top out at 1.5 amps which seems like it won't be enough if I want to run at 100% (will verify though..).

Thank you for the reply. Good to know that my understanding is at least somewhat correct.
 

marekd1

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Good point. Unlike the Kessil lights these panels actually dim based on their input power - they don't have a separate input for a dimming controller. Since I need to run two banks of lights, I don't think the LDD series will work - they seem to top out at 1.5 amps which seems like it won't be enough if I want to run at 100% (will verify though..).

Thank you for the reply. Good to know that my understanding is at least somewhat correct.

Both of the drivers ELG and LDD work on the same principle. It is proffered for the LEDs to operate at constant current, hence these are constant current drivers. Number of LEDs supported depends on the drive voltage applied to both of these drives. The adjustment is dependent on the control voltage input which in turn will translate into LED intensity. The ELG use 0-10V control voltage and LDD use 0-5V control voltage.

LDD driver will definitely be sufficient form 1 LED to as many as you want as long as you satisfy the required LED number forward voltage. If you want to hookup LEDs in parallel (not typical) then you could use the ELG driver. This is where you would need higher current driver and ELG provides the higher rating. Otherwise you need to know what is the maximum current LED will support and make sure your LDD is able to supply that. Most LEDs used for the reef are either 700mA or 1000mA.
 

DirtDiggler2823

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My apologies for having been absent for so long. I'm on the the 3.0 build, and once I was able to clear and rebuild the database, I'm loving this version. I do have a question about LED lights though. I was recently gifted an already assembled DIY LED kit. It has 2 plug for power, with one being the main power supply, and the other being the signal to turn on the lights. All the LEDs are on a single channel, but it's super bright. Is there a way to tie this into the reef-pi for light ramping?
 

dmolavi

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My apologies for having been absent for so long. I'm on the the 3.0 build, and once I was able to clear and rebuild the database, I'm loving this version. I do have a question about LED lights though. I was recently gifted an already assembled DIY LED kit. It has 2 plug for power, with one being the main power supply, and the other being the signal to turn on the lights. All the LEDs are on a single channel, but it's super bright. Is there a way to tie this into the reef-pi for light ramping?

If the "other" input is DC 0-10V, then yes, you can use reef-pi to output the ramp up/down voltages to control the intensity. I do this on my BuildMyLED fixtures and it works great.
 

DirtDiggler2823

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If the "other" input is DC 0-10V, then yes, you can use reef-pi to output the ramp up/down voltages to control the intensity. I do this on my BuildMyLED fixtures and it works great.

Looks like the power supply is set for 3 volts. I should just need to tip the connector and plug it into the reef-pi, correct?
 

DirtDiggler2823

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If the "other" input is DC 0-10V, then yes, you can use reef-pi to output the ramp up/down voltages to control the intensity. I do this on my BuildMyLED fixtures and it works great.

Also, which kits did you buy from there? The food, or cannabis kits? Never mind, I see they stopped making aquarium kits.
 
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Ranjib

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I'm in between a major life event, house purchase :0) .
Those of you who have house in US, any advice? Im going through property inspection phase (in between offer accepted and closing state). What are the key things I should look for? I want to have a larger aquarium (120G), there is information about floor support, but I could also use some electrical and ceiling/paint related advice
 

DirtDiggler2823

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I'm in between a major life event, house purchase :0) .
Those of you who have house in US, any advice? Im going through property inspection phase (in between offer accepted and closing state). What are the key things I should look for? I want to have a larger aquarium (120G), there is information about floor support, but I could also use some electrical and ceiling/paint related advice

Ensure the floor can handle the weight, and that you have a flooring that can take some water here and there. You can ask for certain cosmetic changes to be made before the contract phase, such as painting. In fact, any additional work you want, you can ask for, but be prepared to see an increased cost come contract time. If you want a but more time to ponder, contact another contractor to give you an estimate for what you're looking for. Hope this helps. Good luck!
 

DirtDiggler2823

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I'm in between a major life event, house purchase :0) .
Those of you who have house in US, any advice? Im going through property inspection phase (in between offer accepted and closing state). What are the key things I should look for? I want to have a larger aquarium (120G), there is information about floor support, but I could also use some electrical and ceiling/paint related advice

Your real estate agent can get you all the details
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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I think I saw someone have this issue before but I can't find it in this thread... My temp sensors have been randomly "failing" and sometimes throwing silly temp numbers like - 3600...

Any ideas whats causing this? They would work find for hours and hours then randomly fail then fix themselves.

Screenshot_20200115-210408_Messages.jpg
 

DirtDiggler2823

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I think I saw someone have this issue before but I can't find it in this thread... My temp sensors have been randomly "failing" and sometimes throwing silly temp numbers like - 3600...

Any ideas whats causing this? They would work find for hours and hours then randomly fail then fix themselves.

Screenshot_20200115-210408_Messages.jpg
Could be a bad probe. That's what my issue was several months ago.
 

Bigtrout

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I'm in between a major life event, house purchase :0) .
Those of you who have house in US, any advice? Im going through property inspection phase (in between offer accepted and closing state). What are the key things I should look for? I want to have a larger aquarium (120G), there is information about floor support, but I could also use some electrical and ceiling/paint related advice
On the electrical side, you want at least a 200 amp service and maybe more depending on the size of the house and what all will run with electric.

Look for an inspection sticker on the panel...is it recent? Is it a reputable inspection agency?
What does the wiring coming out of the panel look like? A Bad looking job on the wiring you can see means the wiring thats hidden is probably worse.

Look at the panel...older panels to watch out for are Federal Pacific amd Zinsco...UNSAFE!!!

Pushmatic brand panels are safe but replacement breakers EXPENSIVE!

The 2 best brands are Square D and Seimens!

GFCI outlets in bathrooms amd kitchens?

As a master electrician feel free to PM me with any electrical questions if you need advice.
 

Bigtrout

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I think I saw someone have this issue before but I can't find it in this thread... My temp sensors have been randomly "failing" and sometimes throwing silly temp numbers like - 3600...

Any ideas whats causing this? They would work find for hours and hours then randomly fail then fix themselves.

Screenshot_20200115-210408_Messages.jpg
Common reasons for this:
Probe going bad.
Wiring connections.
Wiring issues. This includes long wire runs where the pullup resistor may have to be made smaller and good wiring used to eliminate stray capacitance.

Double and triple check your connections before doing anything.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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Common reasons for this:
Probe going bad.
Wiring connections.
Wiring issues. This includes long wire runs where the pullup resistor may have to be made smaller and good wiring used to eliminate stray capacitance.

Double and triple check your connections before doing anything.

Hmm. Probes are brand new and were running fine for days in free air testing. I'll have to double check the wiring, as it would go bonkers when the probe cable was disturbed.

I'll check the connections this weekend. There are only 2: sensor to xlr female, male to 3-pin on Mike's Hat.

I'll also try pop in my other SD card with 3.0 see if its throwing same errors there are as well.
 
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thaistalyn

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Hmm. Probes are brand new and were running fine for days in free air testing. I'll have to double check the wiring, as it would go bonkers when the probe cable was disturbed.

I'll check the connections this weekend. There are only 2: sensor to xlr female, male to 3-pin on Mike's Hat.

I'll also try pop in my other SD card with 3.0 see if its throwing same errors there are as well.
I had these exact same issues with the temp probes (I have 2 as well - one in the fuge, one in the skimmer section). They would randomly read some large negative value.

Initially I thought as Bigtrout did and started with double checking my connections with some continuity testing, then shortening the cables to minimize the run to the probe. These probes have sheathing, so i also tried grounding the sheathing. None of these things worked.

I've been testing a new temp probe for the last week and it is rock solid, while the old probe is still spiking once or twice a day. Below are the probes - both good and bad.

(Old) Flakey Probe = DROK 2pc -55 to 125 Deg C, -67 to 257 Deg F Indoor Outdoor Water Cooling Heater Temperature Sensor, 3 Meter Waterproof Cable with Stainless Steel Probe This is the orange color cabled temp probes - I actually cut the wire down to 1 meter from PI enclosure to Sump and coated probe in silicone.

(New) Solid Probe = Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Length 2M Waterproof Temperature Sensor Thermistor Temperature Controller Thermometer with Probe (2M) - Black probe - again I cut the wire down to 1 meter and did not coat in silicone.
 

thaistalyn

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I'm in between a major life event, house purchase :0) .
Those of you who have house in US, any advice? Im going through property inspection phase (in between offer accepted and closing state). What are the key things I should look for? I want to have a larger aquarium (120G), there is information about floor support, but I could also use some electrical and ceiling/paint related advice

My advice - get your own home inspector don't rely on the an inspection bought and paid for by the seller. This may add some cost, but is worth it for the peace of mind. Before the inspection, tell your inspector about your concerns such as electrical and the ceiling / paint concerns ( I would mention if you plan on having a large tank too - if it will not be on a concrete slab). Not sure how old the home is, but in the US during the 60's and 70's they used aluminum wiring in homes - this is bad news.

Finally confirm that the intent to buy contract is 100% dependent on inspection outcome and any down payment is fully refundable.
 

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