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reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Kurtzisa

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You don’t need the upper function or threshold , since you don’t have anything that can bring down ph. Set lower threshold to 6.7 with hysteresis .1 and that will tell reef-pi to turn on the solenoid when the ph goes below 6.6 (6.7-.1) . Reef-pi will automatically turn off the solenoid when Ph goes above 6.8 (6.7+.1) .

Does that make sense ?


On a separate note, ph chasing via direct dosing is risky. I feel it’s safer to just do periodic dosing and slowly adjust the quantity to attain an expected value.
Make sense, but i can't save the parameters witout set the upper threshold and hysteresis is always zero. So a set upper threshold to 10

I don't want ph chasing, but to block te co2 just in case the ph reach 6.5 to avoid disasters
 

Kurtzisa

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I have another little problem, I'd bought a simple relay board, like this 8 relay, one of this relay turn on my freshwater led light, like 6 light for 60W totals. But the relay is stuck in on position. So I changed every relay with Omron product and 16A contact (8 inductive) but I have the same problem, one relay is stuck in on position. I can see the little red led light turn on and off but not the relay.

any suggestion?
 

Bigtrout

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I have another little problem, I'd bought a simple relay board, like this 8 relay, one of this relay turn on my freshwater led light, like 6 light for 60W totals. But the relay is stuck in on position. So I changed every relay with Omron product and 16A contact (8 inductive) but I have the same problem, one relay is stuck in on position. I can see the little red led light turn on and off but not the relay.

any suggestion?
We need alot more info to help you.
How are you wiring the relay?
Are you using the uln2803 to switch the relay?
Are the grounds for all dc power supplies tied together?

The pi itself wont reliable switch a 5v relay so the uln2803 has to be used.

Show us some pics of how everything is wired amd im sure you will get good advice.
 

Kurtzisa

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We need alot more info to help you.
How are you wiring the relay?
the neutral is in common, the phase wire into the COM contact of every relay. I'm using a "star" connection, every single wires are tied together in one single point. I'm an electronic and electrician.

Are you using the uln2803 to switch the relay?
nope
Are the grounds for all dc power supplies tied together?
Yes, all ground of DC power supplies are in common

The pi itself wont reliable switch a 5v relay so the uln2803 has to be used.

Show us some pics of how everything is wired amd im sure you will get good advice.
I have bought a board with optocoupler, so the 3,3V and the 5V are optical isolated to each-other, le GND are in common.

wiring.jpg
 

Bigtrout

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the neutral is in common, the phase wire into the COM contact of every relay. I'm using a "star" connection, every single wires are tied together in one single point. I'm an electronic and electrician.


nope

Yes, all ground of DC power supplies are in common



I have bought a board with optocoupler, so the 3,3V and the 5V are optical isolated to each-other, le GND are in common.

wiring.jpg
Im workin today so keep in mind ill respond as I can.

First off, those relay boards require 15-20ma Per channel to switch on and off, the pi can source or sink 16ma per gpio pin and only a total of 50ma for the whole pi, which is why you need to use an uln2803. 8 relays x 20ma each is 160ma with all relays on.

The uln2803 is an 8 channel transistor chip. The pi turns on the 2803, which can handle the current of the relay board much better.

This leads me to another thing. Those relay boards work by supplying VCC to the opticals and each relay input is actually sinking current to ground to turn the opticals on.

Id suggest using a uln2803 between the pi and relay board. Roll your own on a breadboard, or get one of the fantastic hats with one built in.
 
Lazys Coral House

sellereef

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Has anyone setup reef-pi light controller for Mars Aqua? I am reading some things now that looks like I may need an additional converter to be able to use PWM?

Thank you!
 

Kurtzisa

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Im workin today so keep in mind ill respond as I can.

First off, those relay boards require 15-20ma Per channel to switch on and off, the pi can source or sink 16ma per gpio pin and only a total of 50ma for the whole pi, which is why you need to use an uln2803. 8 relays x 20ma each is 160ma with all relays on.

The uln2803 is an 8 channel transistor chip. The pi turns on the 2803, which can handle the current of the relay board much better.

This leads me to another thing. Those relay boards work by supplying VCC to the opticals and each relay input is actually sinking current to ground to turn the opticals on.

Id suggest using a uln2803 between the pi and relay board. Roll your own on a breadboard, or get one of the fantastic hats with one built in.
15-20 ma per channel? even if they have optocoupler on-board? ... ok ill'try the uln2803 .. i don't find the hat on amazon.
 

Bigtrout

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15-20 ma per channel? even if they have optocoupler on-board? ... ok ill'try the uln2803 .. i don't find the hat on amazon.
Yes even with the octocouplers...there are several reef pi specific hats that have the uln onboard...wont find them on amazon.

@Michael Lane sells a nice goby hat on tindie
@robsworld78 sells nice hat type boards
@theatrus sells his pico board

Forgive me if i forgot anyone.

Anyways they make for a cleaner install and are big time savers.
 

Zippyfear

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Yes even with the octocouplers...there are several reef pi specific hats that have the uln onboard...wont find them on amazon.

@Michael Lane sells a nice goby hat on tindie
@robsworld78 sells nice hat type boards
@theatrus sells his pico board

Forgive me if i forgot anyone.

Anyways they make for a cleaner install and are big time savers.
Also Brandon with Leviathan
 

theatrus

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15-20 ma per channel? even if they have optocoupler on-board? ... ok ill'try the uln2803 .. i don't find the hat on amazon.
Optocouplers are.. an LED and a photo sensor potted together in a small box, so its quite normal. Usually the optocouplers can run down to about 5mA, it all depends on the part they specced.

To be honest I'm not sure why they add optocouplers to a relay board, unless they're scared of the quality of relay they provide. If you just power both sides of the optocoupler with the same supply there is no isolation or other gain.
 
Top Shelf Aquatics

92Miata

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I think this is something different. I did a quick search and see lots of connection issues for various reasons, one common was wifi issues. If you use wifi I would try a hard wire connection and if you have an extra SD card maybe load the Raspberry Pi OS as it won't be a problem now.

I did some digging through the syslogs and found a basic pattern - I'd stop seeing API requests, then about 5-10 minutes later it would log a carrier lost, and then unregister everything and reconnect - so I think the problem was that it was dropping off the wifi and not realizing it. I'm not sure if my crappy wifi router is dropping the connection, or if the pi is.


Anyways - I put a script in that basically scans for wifi networks every 2 minutes and then pings the router - and its been up for 12 hours now.


Got pH and temp logging and alerts set up. Knocked the temp probe out this morning and started getting text messages. They're false alarms, but cool to see.

Gonna give it a couple days and make sure it stays up - and if it does I'll start moving my less vital stuff onto it first.
 

Bigtrout

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I did some digging through the syslogs and found a basic pattern - I'd stop seeing API requests, then about 5-10 minutes later it would log a carrier lost, and then unregister everything and reconnect - so I think the problem was that it was dropping off the wifi and not realizing it. I'm not sure if my crappy wifi router is dropping the connection, or if the pi is.


Anyways - I put a script in that basically scans for wifi networks every 2 minutes and then pings the router - and its been up for 12 hours now.


Got pH and temp logging and alerts set up. Knocked the temp probe out this morning and started getting text messages. They're false alarms, but cool to see.

Gonna give it a couple days and make sure it stays up - and if it does I'll start moving my less vital stuff onto it first.
I use a pi zero w, never had a wifi issue, but i have a good wifi router. I did make sure the pi was not in a metal enclosure which would block signal.

Is your stand , enclosure or the combo causimg wifi signal to the pi to be weak perhaps?
 

Bigtrout

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Optocouplers are.. an LED and a photo sensor potted together in a small box, so its quite normal. Usually the optocouplers can run down to about 5mA, it all depends on the part they specced.

To be honest I'm not sure why they add optocouplers to a relay board, unless they're scared of the quality of relay they provide. If you just power both sides of the optocoupler with the same supply there is no isolation or other gain.
The octocouplers on those boards let either a 3.3 or a 5 v signal turn on the octocoupler to let the relays work. Yes they could spec 5ma ones but i tested my boards which are the same board as the posters and they run 15-20ma.
The board has a jumper that determines if you run completely isolated or commonly grounded. People wiring things wrong were hosing their arduinos so i think that is the reasoning for isolation.

These boards are kind of a universal fit for arduinos and pi and general experimenting. The relays are the songle ones like in the american DJ power strip so not very robust.

That being said, even though i got a great ebay deal on a crapload of nice phoenix contact 24v mini relays with inductive protection and suppression with din rail sockets to go with them, that I was going to change out if my cheapy board failed. The cheapy relays have been working for 2 years running my heaters and return pump. Maybe its because I run most of the relays normally closed in case reef pi goes nuts. Reef pi has to energize the relays to turn them off so most of the time the relay coils are sitting not energized.
 
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92Miata

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I use a pi zero w, never had a wifi issue, but i have a good wifi router. I did make sure the pi was not in a metal enclosure which would block signal.

Is your stand , enclosure or the combo causimg wifi signal to the pi to be weak perhaps?
It's basically sitting on my desk - router is about 6 feet away. I don't think it's a signal issue.

I think the router was killing the connection because it isn't seeing activity. The router's ui Is awful so I'm not really sure past that.
 
OP
Ranjib

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I used to have some of these types of issues with my comcast router. But they have never been a big deal. I did install a systemd timer to restart network service every night.
Those problems all went away since I switched to google WiFi.

On a related note, remember it’s possible to run reef-pi as standalone WiFi hotspot. It will not have access to internet this way (assuming no LAN connection present ) , but it should work fine, you just have to connect to the reef-pi hotspot to access the web ui. Its pretty awesome from security perspective,
 

Kurtzisa

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@Ranjib my ph probe into the calcium reactor didn't work well.
I can't set the hysteresis, every minute the solenoid valve open for one minute and turn off... I think there is something wrong... Maybe a DB wiping could be the solution?
the PH is pretty linear

PH.jpg
 

DeeEmm

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It should be possible using an ATO. A momentary switch is set up as an Input should be able to trigger a Macro. When I last played with that, I could not get an input on an ATO to trigger a Macro in any way. But it should be possible as the options are built in.
Thanks Des. I've set up the ATO to trigger the macro but haven't had a chance to do any bench testing yet.
 

BenB

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@Ranjib my ph probe into the calcium reactor didn't work well.
I can't set the hysteresis, every minute the solenoid valve open for one minute and turn off... I think there is something wrong... Maybe a DB wiping could be the solution?
the PH is pretty linear

PH.jpg
Your hysteresis is 0 in the picture, I do not think that will work, maybe better change it to 0.1 like Ranjib mentioned!
 

DeeEmm

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It's basically sitting on my desk - router is about 6 feet away. I don't think it's a signal issue.

I think the router was killing the connection because it isn't seeing activity. The router's ui Is awful so I'm not really sure past that.

What else do you have on your network? We have a lot of network traffic (CCTV + Home automation ), throw in a couple of phones, ipads, computers and things get busy.

I think that the issue we had was that at peak demand times some devices would drop as the router simply could not handle the traffic. Those generic routers that you buy from officeworks or get free with your broadband connection are really not that good when your network starts to grow.

I think that the Google Wifi has different (roaming) control algorithms due to the way it handles mesh connections and so is less likely to drop connections, especially if the connection hops from one node to the next. We have three nodes set up.

Here's an easy test you can try: In chrome browser type 'speed test' it'll give you a link to test your connection speed.

Do it whilst connected on wifi. Then turn off your wifi and plug in an ethernet cable. Then run it again. Compare the results. It'll soon show up if you have any bandwidth issues.
 

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