reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Urtoo]

AbjectM, I believe I read that is being addressed/updated in version 3.

 

[Ranjib]

I could have sworn this has already been asked/discussed, but for the life of me I can't find it.

As far as automatic light ramping, is there a way to increase the frequency from once every two hours to once an hour? Or more?

Or is that a limitation of reef pi?

This is not possible with stocking lighting UI/API in 2.x series. We are allowing this (arbitrary time period) in 3.0

 

[Ranjib]

Seeing @Ranjib 's post about updating his old system just made me realize I've never posted a picture of my enclosure! I'm usually only posting about or responding to problems. Figured it was time for some positivity!

You can build controller for local community :-) . Very nice enclosure

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

This is not possible with stocking lighting UI/API in 2.x series. We are allowing this (arbitrary time period) in 3.0

Is this already in 3.0 pre alpha? Or planed for the 3.0 release?

 

[Michael Lane]

Is this already in 3.0 pre alpha? Or planed for the 3.0 release?

This is planned for the 3.0 release,
Arbitrary PWM profile is not in a release yet, but the back-end implementation has been coded. UI work for this feature will probably start this week.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

This is planned for the 3.0 release,
Arbitrary PWM profile is not in a release yet, but the back-end implementation has been coded. UI work for this feature will probably start this week.

Sweet! You guys are truly doing amazing things for the community. I may have to go to your side of the James River and buy you a beer.

 

[Ranjib]

Is this already in 3.0 pre alpha? Or planed for the 3.0 release?

its not in the alpha build, if i recall correctly. Its already in master, i.e. whatever next alpha/beta comes out will have it.

 

[Ranjib]

Actually: 0-). I take that back. What we have is arbitrary PWM capability. We still need a lunar and 15/30 min interval profile using those bits. The UI work also needs to be done. What we have right now is enough to build all custom PWM profile without making any breaking change. This will allow us to ship custom profiles incrementally.

 

[Schreiber]

Do you know the current draw from each of pca9685 pin? I would be very concerned if you are not powering it with dedicated 5v line.

I may be wrong, but isn't the current draw limited to only 25 mA from each pca9685 pin? From the datasheet: The PCA9685 operates with a supply voltage range of 2.3 V to 5.5 V and the inputs and outputs are 5.5 V tolerant. LEDs can be directly connected to the LED output (up to 25 mA, 5.5 V) or controlled with external drivers and a minimum amount of discrete components for larger current or higher voltage LEDs.

 

[Schreiber]

On the topic of PCA9685... I can use the PWM output from the PCA for the L293d Enable, correct? That would free up a couple of GPIO pins for me if that's the case.

 

[Ranjib]

On the topic of PCA9685... I can use the PWM output from the PCA for the L293d Enable, correct? That would free up a couple of GPIO pins for me if that's the case.

Yes

 

[Ranjib]

I may be wrong, but isn't the current draw limited to only 25 mA from each pca9685 pin? From the datasheet: The PCA9685 operates with a supply voltage range of 2.3 V to 5.5 V and the inputs and outputs are 5.5 V tolerant. LEDs can be directly connected to the LED output (up to 25 mA, 5.5 V) or controlled with external drivers and a minimum amount of discrete components for larger current or higher voltage LEDs.

Yes. But it’s also recommended to solder an appropriate capacitor in the place holder. This still requires you to pass enough power. If you are powering it from pi itself, that will limit the input power.

 

[burningbaal]

any reason teamviewer isn't viable for remote access to the pi? Just received/setup my canakit last night (rpi4 with 2GB), getting Ranthellion's hat, SRP8, etc today (I hope) and get some power control!
I'll look for a temp probe next, then look to incorporate my ATO, hoping to use the parts from my ebay ATO, so I'll need to figure out how to connect those sensors...

 

[Halo_003]

Hey guys,

I’m working with a really slim fixture for my LED build and realized my BlueFish Mini is too tall to fit under the splash shield. Would a Raspberry Pi Zero W be able to drive 4 PWM channels without any extra hardware? Would it need the ReefPi software installed to do so? The drivers are BlueAcro MicroDriver v1 and v2s.

edit: one more question, do any of you use a ReefPi only to control lights?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Hey guys,

I’m working with a really slim fixture for my LED build and realized my BlueFish Mini is too tall to fit under the splash shield. Would a Raspberry Pi Zero W be able to drive 4 PWM channels without any extra hardware? Would it need the ReefPi software installed to do so? The drivers are BlueAcro MicroDriver v1 and v2s.

4 individual channels? No, as I believe pi only has 2 of its own pwm pins. However you could tie in multiple channels to one pin, but as I said you could only control 2 independently of each other. If that makes sense.

 

[MikeSpike]

After fully testing my reef pi power controller I installed it into my tank cupboard. However for some reason now some of the relays don’t go ‘off’ ??? I can move the switch of on the equipment tab but the actual plug stays live? Is this a dodgy relay?? Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Urtoo]

Mike, did you bench test it and shown to be good? Did the relay board shift and pop a few wires? When moving, is it laying down or did you mount it on a bulkhead/wall? If that was mine, I would pull it down and make sure my standoffs and screw terminate are tight.

 

[MikeSpike]

Have checked. All the jumper wires still in place....

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

If nothing is loose, maybe check for shorts?

 

[Ranjib]

Have checked. All the jumper wires still in place....

When you switch on the equipment/outlet from reef-pi, check if you see 3.3V output from the corresponding GPIO pin. If so, then reef-pi is fine, its likely the circuit or relay itself. You can then track down that voltage from GPIO to your relay input.. to find out if its the connection in between or the relay itself thats bad