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- Oct 19, 2016
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both being fed 5v exactly. A little concerned as above on ATO but also on my titanium heater!Yep, those little relay boards can self weld shut, or the metal contact rod inside can get wedged without enough umph to snap open again. Did you test the voltage supplied to the dc relay supply from your controller, make sure that it is being fed proper voltage?
How much dc voltage you are switching ? L293d are pretty good for dc workloadsboth being fed 5v exactly. A little concerned as above on ATO but also on my titanium heater!
Would prefer to switch out to solid state relays but unfortunately you can’t use them on DC circuits which a lot of my equipment is
I have used mechanical relays in the beginning almost 1.5 years. I found high failure rates from the beginning, not by usage but just faulty units from the beginning. I think a relatively reputed brand like sainsmart will help. Double check your wiring as well.Hardly any. Not familiar with that chip. Can I just use it in place of a relay. Curious what others who built their own controller have done? Have I just got unlucky?
Not sure if you already addressed this, but do you have the grounds tied together on the system? Grounding issues can cause similar results.Hardly any. Not familiar with that chip. Can I just use it in place of a relay. Curious what others who built their own controller have done? Have I just got unlucky?
Thanksgiving . I try to make the major releases around thanksgiving time. There’s no hard deadline , so if some major bugs or concerns comes out we can delay that. We are already I feature freeze mode , so no big new feature is being written right now . I am working on finishing up the small features from backlog (lunar profile for example ), sorting out bugs (we have many ), field testing in October . Michael and Vince is working on the new UI updates to support the new features . By last week of October or early November I’ll cut another 3.0 beta releases and focus on documentation (tutorial and api ) from then on. Till we hit thanksgiving /final release
Direct wireless control. Kasa HS300, HS103, HS110 are supported. Current monitoring will be exposed as analog input in reef-pi, users can treat it as ph probe and graph or do something with it if they wantI looked at the Kasa again, are you adding wireless Control to ReefPi? Flashing the power strip with Tasmota, or something else?
lets hope they are reliable enough. I have one controller running with it, full ato , light timer etc. here’s the build thread : https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/5-5g-budget-nano-reef-pi-open-design.648179/Wait wait wait. You incorporated their monitoring per port into version 3?
Adding wireless will allow users to add multiple aquariums across the home or yard. That is huge
Yes. They use auto key encryption, which I learned from the Nodejs based Kasa library. reef-pi is using exact same scheme to control these smart outlets. Your kasa app will work as it is. It’s just another thing that will control these devices. This also means you now have two places to control those outlets.When you say direct, do you mean that we do not need their native software app? Ordered the 300 just a moment ago.
Saves me building another power controller. Can't wait!Yes. They use auto key encryption, which I learned from the Nodejs based Kasa library. reef-pi is using exact same scheme to control these smart outlets. Your kasa app will work as it is. It’s just another thing that will control these devices. This also means you now have two places to control those outlets.
This is a bug :-( https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/issues/829 , it only works at hourly or greater threshold. I was planning to fix it as part of 3.0 release. Unless you need this urgently.Hey guys,
Does the ATO Disable on Alert not work for anyone else?
I have it set to disable if it's on for more than 5 seconds but that never occurs. Just stays on. I'm dry testing this all right now with a mechanical float switch and while it does switch on and off as the levels change in the tank, the "safety" never kicks in.
Also, this is on reef-pi 2.5
Would you recommend running two float switches? A higher failsafe switch that cuts off the circuit from the 1st float to reef-pi to add a safety net? My ATO pump is a bit... Oversized and will fill the tank within seconds so I'm trying to figure out the best way to prevent a catastrophe