reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

burningbaal

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Just soldered a new temp sensor to the just from Michael Lane and plugged it into temp3 on my goby hat. Checked the temperature box and reloaded, but no sensor shows up in the drop-down...what am I missing?
 

sfgabe

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Just soldered a new temp sensor to the just from Michael Lane and plugged it into temp3 on my goby hat. Checked the temperature box and reloaded, but no sensor shows up in the drop-down...what am I missing?
See if there is anything listed in devices
Code:
pi@reef-pi: cd /sys/bus/w1/devices
pi@reef-pi: ls
You should see something that starts with 28-XXXX

If that's not there, it's probably a wiring issue.
 

burningbaal

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Just soldered a new temp sensor to the just from Michael Lane and plugged it into temp3 on my goby hat. Checked the temperature box and reloaded, but no sensor shows up in the drop-down...what am I missing?

15729336172821026697927233700057.jpg Screenshot_20191104-220052_Chrome.jpg
 

burningbaal

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See if there is anything listed in devices
Code:
pi@reef-pi: cd /sys/bus/w1/devices
pi@reef-pi: ls
You should see something that starts with 28-XXXX

If that's not there, it's probably a wiring issue.
Eh... That has to wait for tomorrow. I'm currently without an HDMI display within cable's reach of my pi. I plan to try installing TeamViewer next time I log in so I can access remotely. Maybe tomorrow, but I either have to take the TV off the wall or unplug the pi from my adj strip
 

dmolavi

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Eh... That has to wait for tomorrow. I'm currently without an HDMI display within cable's reach of my pi. I plan to try installing TeamViewer next time I log in so I can access remotely. Maybe tomorrow, but I either have to take the TV off the wall or unplug the pi from my adj strip

You should be able to ssh into the pi remotely using putty...
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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Just soldered a new temp sensor to the just from Michael Lane and plugged it into temp3 on my goby hat. Checked the temperature box and reloaded, but no sensor shows up in the drop-down...what am I missing?

My guess would be a wiring issue. Depending on the sensor manufacturer, the wire color coding may not exactly conform to any given standard.
 

janos

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Eh... That has to wait for tomorrow. I'm currently without an HDMI display within cable's reach of my pi. I plan to try installing TeamViewer next time I log in so I can access remotely. Maybe tomorrow, but I either have to take the TV off the wall or unplug the pi from my adj strip
wiring issue happened for me and more some member here in the forum .The board is 100% good and working perfect
 

Bigtrout

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These reports are good...i want to upgrade my pi 0 to a 3b or 4 so I can just run an ethernet line to it...one less wireless thing on the network, plus my tank is only 10 feet from my router
 

burningbaal

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See if there is anything listed in devices
Code:
pi@reef-pi: cd /sys/bus/w1/devices
pi@reef-pi: ls
You should see something that starts with 28-XXXX

If that's not there, it's probably a wiring issue.
It's almost certainly a wiring issue. I checked the amazon listing for the probes I bought, they say yellow is data , black is ground (red is power). I soldered colors to match, which conflicts with Michael's hat listing on tindie. I'll fix it tonight and see if I can ssh in.
I tried to ssh in real quick from my phone (random ssh app) and couldn't get in this morning, I'll try from my macbook tonight. I may need to change the system settings on the pi to allow ssh...darn
 

sfgabe

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These reports are good...i want to upgrade my pi 0 to a 3b or 4 so I can just run an ethernet line to it...one less wireless thing on the network, plus my tank is only 10 feet from my router
If you want to keep using the zero, you can add an eth port to it with a dongle like this one on the middle micro usb port
 

StevieShizzlesBE

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Has anyone use reef-pi and a diy led setup using the meanwell ldd drivers?

I have 5 of them running a diy AI Hydra 26 HD on a 24V (soon 36V or 48V for more units) meanwell switching power supply , works like charm, and easy to setup. You'll need a PCA9685 depending on how many channel.
 
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I have 5 of them running a diy AI Hydra 26 HD on a 24V (soon 36V or 48V for more units) meanwell switching power supply , works like charm, and easy to setup. You'll need a PCA9685 depending on how many channel.
wow :0-) thats awesome. Thanks for sharing this information, and a warm welcome to reef2reef
 

Bigtrout

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If you want to keep using the zero, you can add an eth port to it with a dongle like this one on the middle micro usb port
I know about those dongles. Im looking at getting a better pi for future proofing my reef-pi. I already have other designs for the pi zero ;)
Now that I have proven out my reef-pi as reliable, there is a kid down the street whos getting into aquariums. His mom doesn't have alot of money. Seeing as how he could get into alot worse things than a good hobby I am gonna do my permanent "Cadillac" reef -pi build and can donate my spare parts to help him get a reef pi going.
 
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StevieShizzlesBE

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wow :0-) thats awesome. Thanks for sharing this information, and a warm welcome to reef2reef

nack for diy, keeps the mind awake ;)

Been thinking to provide some docs with other parts, like 8ch relais board instead of your box in the guides (can't use that in EU) and setting up LDD drivers with diy CREE leds. I use the meanwell for leds and a computer psu to get 3,3V , 5V and 12V needed for PWM and equipment.
1 meanwell 24v could be used to power all wavemakers, controlled by wavemaker profiles in reef-pi fyi
#thinkingbigdiybuilds - will post soon on instagram

MQTT broker and launcher is mostly done for reef-pi, as in the basics are there to get all data from reef-pi and timeserie data from prometheus, run macro and timers (i'll open an issue, if there isn't any, as UI doesn't reflect running or not in 3.0 Beta)
Not sure if i need to cover getting json from db and parsing that for users that don't want anything like grafana, but i can integrate that fairly easy as next to do.
 

burningbaal

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It's almost certainly a wiring issue. I checked the amazon listing for the probes I bought, they say yellow is data , black is ground (red is power). I soldered colors to match, which conflicts with Michael's hat listing on tindie. I'll fix it tonight and see if I can ssh in.
I tried to ssh in real quick from my phone (random ssh app) and couldn't get in this morning, I'll try from my macbook tonight. I may need to change the system settings on the pi to allow ssh...darn
Hey @Michael Lane which pin is data and which is power? I see ground, that's easy enough. is the middle pin data and the 'other side' power or vice versa? the wires for my probe are identified as data, power, and ground, but I'm not sure based on your drawing (cause I'm too ignorant)...is 3v3 the power supply to the probe and 1w is the data?
 

Bigtrout

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Hey @Michael Lane which pin is data and which is power? I see ground, that's easy enough. is the middle pin data and the 'other side' power or vice versa? the wires for my probe are identified as data, power, and ground, but I'm not sure based on your drawing (cause I'm too ignorant)...is 3v3 the power supply to the probe and 1w is the data?
On @Michael Lane hat, the 3v3 is probe power, 1w is probe data and gnd is ground.
 

burningbaal

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Thanks @Bigtrout @Michael Lane and all the rest, this got it going! I have one running now with short wires for an ambient sensor, now I need to put together two more for duplicate tank water sensors!
For those who are curious, my plan is:
have probe 1 control the heaters between 26-27c
have probe 2 alert if the temperature is outside 25-28
have probe 3 alert if the (ambient) temperature is outside 10-30c (for now, I may fine tune that later)

a feature I'd love for reef-pi (I'd be happy to look at writing the code if people are willing), is to have an alert on a difference between two sensors. I think the UI would need a combobox to say which sensor to compare to (or 'none'), and a 'alert when difference is more than X' text box and possibly a 'when difference is more than Y, trigger macro A' (so you can make sure the heater is off while in this weird place).
 

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