My honest opinion here... large LPS on the sand will get picked at by most valenciennea gobies. The few that don't pick at it will drop sand on it constantly. I know the jawfish recommendation exists but I have no experience with them outside of a LFS. My guess here is look into the shrimp gobies but even then maybe avoid larger ones. Another option could be a group of the larger clown gobies (think Citron gobies). Although those will rip up some SPS. So honestly find a small shrimp goby or play the tank safe and cut the fish out. Who knows the extra free bioload might make your life a bit easier in terms of maintenance. I've had only a few heavily stocked tanks ever. I've always preferred the lighter stocking lists as that always leaves space for an unplanned fish that I discover later on. Maybe someone else could chime in on a hawkfish like a long nose or flame?
Reefer 425 stocking suggestions
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OutColdCRNA
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The more I think about the big goby will be out. Thinking of other sand sifting/ stirring fish. I have always been a sand vacuumer but this will be my largest tank of my 10 years career. So hoping for something to help with maintenance.
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OutColdCRNA
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Thinking I like my list and maybe switch out the butterfly for a copperband if I can find one thats eating. May have room for a couple other small fish! Any ideas? Or does that list sound pretty rounded out?
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Replace the Valenciennea with an Amblyeleotris guttatus - My reasoning is due to the nutrient differences they need. For more in depth reasons then my article about the “Sandsifters vs Sanddwellers” will explain it.
The rest of the list looks alright - I’d personally add Atleast 3 more wrasses (but I am biased to Wrasse and Gobies). My current stocking for my 4’x2’x2’ tank is;
- Siganus magnificus
- Ctenochaetus binotatus
- Chelmon rostratum
- Genicanthus melanospilos
- Amphiprion occ x Amphiprion perc “Black Photon”
- Escenius lineatus
- Cryptocentrus cinctus
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Cebu Var.
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var.
- Cirrhilabrus naokoae
- Halichoeres chloropterus
- Halichoeres iridis
- Paracheilinus spp. Hybrid
Just a few of my favourite wrasses in the tank.
Cirrhilabrus naokoae - Complex: Rubriventralis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Mainly displayed through “flashing”, rarely ever “attacks”)
Reef Safe: Yes (All fairy wrasses are planktonic feeders so will rarely go after an alive invert or coral)
Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var. - Conplex: Lubbocki
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Same as C. naokoae)
Reef safe: Yes
Paracheilinus spp.
Aggression: Peaceful (Will display when established)
Reef safe: Yes (Same with fairies, all flashers are planktonic feeders and so will rarely go for a living invert)
Halichoeres iridis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Some can be aggressive but most just flay their fins)
Reef Safe: With Invert Caution (Can go for small ornamental shrimp such as sexy shrimp however will avoid larger species such as Lysmata amboinensis and Alpheus bellulus).
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OutColdCRNA
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Perfect post! Really wanted to add a few more wrasses and that gives me room to pick some more!!Replace the Valenciennea with an Amblyeleotris guttatus - My reasoning is due to the nutrient differences they need. For more in depth reasons then my article about the “Sandsifters vs Sanddwellers” will explain it.
The rest of the list looks alright - I’d personally add Atleast 3 more wrasses (but I am biased to Wrasse and Gobies). My current stocking for my 4’x2’x2’ tank is;
- Siganus magnificus
- Ctenochaetus binotatus
- Chelmon rostratum
- Genicanthus melanospilos
- Amphiprion occ x Amphiprion perc “Black Photon”
- Escenius lineatus
- Cryptocentrus cinctus
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Cebu Var.
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var.
- Cirrhilabrus naokoae
- Halichoeres chloropterus
- Halichoeres iridis
- Paracheilinus spp. Hybrid
Just a few of my favourite wrasses in the tank.
Cirrhilabrus naokoae - Complex: Rubriventralis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Mainly displayed through “flashing”, rarely ever “attacks”)
Reef Safe: Yes (All fairy wrasses are planktonic feeders so will rarely go after an alive invert or coral)
Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var. - Conplex: Lubbocki
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Same as C. naokoae)
Reef safe: Yes
Paracheilinus spp.
Aggression: Peaceful (Will display when established)
Reef safe: Yes (Same with fairies, all flashers are planktonic feeders and so will rarely go for a living invert)
Halichoeres iridis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Some can be aggressive but most just flay their fins)
Reef Safe: With Invert Caution (Can go for small ornamental shrimp such as sexy shrimp however will avoid larger species such as Lysmata amboinensis and Alpheus bellulus).
You know years ago I kept a sandsifting goby and he ate prepared foods just as well as any other fish. Is this not the norm?Replace the Valenciennea with an Amblyeleotris guttatus - My reasoning is due to the nutrient differences they need. For more in depth reasons then my article about the “Sandsifters vs Sanddwellers” will explain it.
The rest of the list looks alright - I’d personally add Atleast 3 more wrasses (but I am biased to Wrasse and Gobies). My current stocking for my 4’x2’x2’ tank is;
- Siganus magnificus
- Ctenochaetus binotatus
- Chelmon rostratum
- Genicanthus melanospilos
- Amphiprion occ x Amphiprion perc “Black Photon”
- Escenius lineatus
- Cryptocentrus cinctus
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Cebu Var.
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var.
- Cirrhilabrus naokoae
- Halichoeres chloropterus
- Halichoeres iridis
- Paracheilinus spp. Hybrid
Just a few of my favourite wrasses in the tank.
Cirrhilabrus naokoae - Complex: Rubriventralis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Mainly displayed through “flashing”, rarely ever “attacks”)
Reef Safe: Yes (All fairy wrasses are planktonic feeders so will rarely go after an alive invert or coral)
Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Indo Var. - Conplex: Lubbocki
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Same as C. naokoae)
Reef safe: Yes
Paracheilinus spp.
Aggression: Peaceful (Will display when established)
Reef safe: Yes (Same with fairies, all flashers are planktonic feeders and so will rarely go for a living invert)
Halichoeres iridis
Aggression: Semi-Aggro (Some can be aggressive but most just flay their fins)
Reef Safe: With Invert Caution (Can go for small ornamental shrimp such as sexy shrimp however will avoid larger species such as Lysmata amboinensis and Alpheus bellulus).
i cant think
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Normally, the majority of Valenciennea (and other genera of sandsifters) just don’t do well long term in captivity and usually starve within the first 6 months. They just don’t do well without deep and mature sandbeds that hold life constantly.
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OutColdCRNA
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Why is the Halichoeres iridis labeled as expert only?
slurpeee76
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i've had almost all of these in my tank at some point. i had more tangs than anthias which i found to be more hardy. good luck!
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OutColdCRNA
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I figured the shipping was probably the kicker. Same way you see leopard wrasses as listed as expert.
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OutColdCRNA
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I have never kept anthias but have always love how beautiful they are. Figured this build may be the time to give them a go!
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It’s purely due to shipping stress hitting them quite hard. Once they’re out of the stress zone then they’re easy as making mud. I’ve had mine for 2 years now and he’s just thrived ever since the first week (He underwent some stress but once he was out of that stage he was easy as ever). I recommend getting a female/juvenile as these ship better and then they transition to males after a while. So you’ll get Atleast a year if not 1.5-2 years of the female colouration and then they tend to mature and transition to males.
Another reason is they can come in with internal issues however I’ve found this to be quite rare in comparison to some other wrasses (Such as Anampses femininus and Anampses lennardi).
Wrassefan78
Active Member
Hmmm what would I put…
Tomini Tang
Joculator Angel reef safe with caution
2 x Candy Basslet
Half banded flasher wrasse
Johnson’s fairy wrasse
Dracula goby with a pistol shrimp companion.
That’s what I would do.
My cade 1500 list is
Conspicuous Angel
Blue line Angel pair
Tiger Angel
Regal Angel
Joculator Angel
Tiger Pyge
Gem Tang
Polyzona Tang
Powder Blue
Had to rehome my wrasses because of aggression from the tiger pyge.
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OutColdCRNA
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I could definitely dream of that list of what to put in. I think the wife may have a problem with the price tag of those selections haha
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I wouldn’t do the Half Banded, these can get rather large and need Atleast a 6’ tank if not 8’+ this is due to how active they are compared to other flashers (ontop of their size).
The rest I agree with if money wasn’t an object. In fact I’d add another onto the list;
Anampses lennardi
Wrassefan78
Active Member
They usually max out at 4” inches at the super male stage in their life. I woujd be happy to switch it to a Bells Or diamond tail flasher wrasse.
You do know adult lennardi wrasses can push 2’ right? Take a look on the reef builders website. So if a half banded won’t work then then this won’t either. However, for a portion of time both would work in his tank.
Hopefully we are allowed to post screenshots.
Photo courtesy of Reef Builders.
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Half Bandeds can get much larger than 4”. I believe the Wrasse Lovers Thread has an older photo of one in there. That guy looked to be Atleast 6 inches (I believe the owner of the wrasse was @Crabby48 however I don’t think they are active on here anymore).They usually max out at 4” inches at the super male stage in their life. I woujd be happy to switch it to a Bells Or diamond tail flasher wrasse.
You do know adult lennardi wrasses can push 2’ right? Take a look on the reef builders website. So if a half banded won’t work then then this won’t either. However, for a portion of time both would work in his tank.
Hopefully we are allowed to post screenshots.
Photo courtesy of Reef Builders.
Also with the Anampses, I mixed up lennardi with neoguinaicus. I typed that in early in the morning so I hadn’t quite woken up yet. Yes, Anampses lennardi can potentially reach 2’ long however it’s much less likely to occur and often they max out at 1’.
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