Daniel@R2R

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Awesome!! Beautiful reef!
 
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Wow... thats a lot of work to go through and still end up with Ich. Im running ich management as well and feed really well (Soaked pellets in vitamins, LRS, Seaweed and my own clam food cut up from fresh clams). I haven't seen a spot in... well I don't remember the last time. My UV has also been off line for months.

Sorry to read you lost most of your SPS... I had an issue with my P04 getting to high and also lost several but thankfully have the majority still. I had to start dosing NoPox to bring both my nitrates and phosphates down and so far so good.
Anyway beautiful tank! Love all the LPS. Also noticed you have several Alveoporas - as do I. Love them and don't see all that often in other tanks.
Thanks for the very encouraging words buddy.

I’m currently living with ICK with good feed with TM IMMUVIT and TM LIPOVIT. UV is on 18hrs a day, usually to cover from dusk to dawn, where ICK are said to hatch and latch on to their sleeping host. I still see the occasional spots, usually is when NEW fishes are added, but I usually spruced the diet of resident fishes with Dr Gill’s Anti Parasite Caviar (PRAZIQUENTAL) for the initial 2 weeks as precaution. So far it‘s working For me.

But I have not done with eradicating ICK though, once all my “wishlist“ livestocks are in my tank, I am prepared to do Food Grade 3% H2O2 dosing for 6 weeks (according to humble.fish) + another 3 weeks (50% safety factor), and send for a lab test to confirm any residual ICK.

TTM has always my go to QT method, and has worked exceptionally well for me, but since the display has ICK, I would just observe the new fish for a week or 2 with the 30 mins H2O2 dip before entering the display.

IMHO, Aveopora has more presence than Goniopora especially in a bigger tank.

With my current fish load, I’m intermixing DVH AIO BIOPELLETS, NITRAGUARD TITANIUM, ATS, ROWAPHOS, TM ELIMI NP-RAPID (LaCl), TM NP BACTO BALANCE, etc. just to keep nutrients in check. PO4 below 0.1ppm and NO3 15-20ppm.
 

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But I have not done with eradicating ICK though, once all my “wishlist“ livestocks are in my tank, I am prepared to do Food Grade 3% H2O2 dosing for 6 weeks (according to humble.fish) + another 3 weeks (50% safety factor), and send for a lab test to confirm any residual ICK.
Have you looked into Oxydators? I have run an Oxydator (size W) for the past 9 months or so... could in part be a big reason why my tank/fish never show signs of ich even though I assume its still present. I use 12% H202 diluted down to 6% and its in my sump 24/7.
 
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Have you looked into Oxydators? I have run an Oxydator (size W) for the past 9 months or so... could in part be a big reason why my tank/fish never show signs of ich even though I assume its still present. I use 12% H202 diluted down to 6% and its in my sump 24/7.
I would believe so. ICK has no chance. 3% H2O2 dosing 24/7 via VERSA would achieve similar effect.
 
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I am currently suppressing my PO4 and NO3 down with ATS, equally sized Chaetomorpha and Caulrpa lentillifera, GFO (1kg), LaCl (5ml daily) and Nitraguard Titanium (1L).

9A89978A-F9B7-40A2-BBFB-910FC8ACDD95.jpeg


Given my current fish load...

2M5F Lyretail Anthia (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)
2M2F Hutchii Anthia (Pseudanthias huchtii)
1M3F Dispar Anthia (Pseudanthias dispar)
1M2F Evansi Anthia (Pseudanthias evansi)
2 Borbonius Anthia (Odontanthias borbonius)
2 Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi)
2 Banana Moray (Gymnothorax milaris)
2 Red Dartfish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
1 Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon)
1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum)
1 Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
1 Gem Tang (Zebrasoma gemmatum)
1 Whitetail Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus flavicauda)
1 Purple Tilefish (Hoplolatilus purpureus)
1 China Wrasse (Anampses neoguinaicus)
1 Solar Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)
1 Naoko’s Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus naokoae)
1 Royal Gamma (Gramma loreto)
1 Springer Damsel (Chrysiptera springeri)
1 Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)

Temporary in my SUMP/REFUGIUM are 6 small Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi), pending cycling of my anemone only tank.

2C80A945-2D53-479B-860E-6F13F51AFB53.jpeg
 
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In the meantime, I have decided to introduce 2 haddoni carpets to the display for my Mccullochi pair (I hope they are, at least they are not fighting). Amongst them they have hosted my torches and elegance to death.

But I am keeping a watchful eye to avoid my earlier “anemone nuke the tank” incident. Putting egg crate barriers and anemone guard on power-heads, to do the least.

B313719C-9EF2-4419-879F-94E66C7C1469.jpeg
 
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ICK-wise... It hasn't raised its ugly head much to warrant the full regime of (HUMBLEFISH) H2O2 dosing. I have however been feeding all 3 Dr G's medicated food on rotation, ie. 2 weeks of anti-parasite food, followed by 2 weeks of regular food, then on to 2 weeks of anti-bacterial food, so on and so forth. FWIW, UV is on 24/7.

Screenshot 2022-06-29 at 15.02.43.png
 
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Got 5 Hutomo’s Anthia (Pseudanthias hutomoi) over the weekend. Try to get them to feed for now.
2CD77C51-E37D-4191-B2AD-595366B3056C.jpeg


While my MCC, enjoying his carpet.
9FA42E07-42F7-42DC-9006-003C184AC5E7.jpeg


Actually, to each it’s own carpet.
729ECF2C-BA07-4E3A-8D6F-8B823BC6C883.jpeg
 
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Added 2 Wrasses and 2 Anthias.

Because of this wrasse I am reintroducing sand to one end of my bare bottom tank, and after a years of waiting…the Feminine Tamarin Wrasse (Anampses femininus).

D9B41355-F14B-4FBD-A2DF-9291A457858F.jpeg


The Melanurus Wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) took it straight to the sand.

DE537C56-3CFF-4A1F-86CC-C054049E3DB4.jpeg


At the same time, I couldn’t pass on 2 Bismaculatus Anthia (Pseudanthias bimaculatus).

BA2FE7ED-78CF-4D17-967B-9451A77EC0B2.jpeg


All in all, it’s a sight to behold when all the wrasses mingle. Imagine the colors!!!
 
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Last Christmas, I inquired on HUNBLE.FISH on “How to Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank”, and I have 5L of 3% H2O2 in the fridge for situation like today.

A month ago, I stopped my UV that I had been running 24/7 for coming 2 years, in favor of Biopellet (NP ACTIVE PEARLS) and Heterotrophic Bacteria (WASTE AWAY) for nutrient control. Anthias that were with me for over a year died one after another over last couple of days, and the larger fishes like tangs and wrasses are covered with ick and some with cloudy eyes. The cleaner wrasse is hard at work judging from the full stomach.

Today, I have turned on the UV and hook up 3% H2O2 dosage @ 1mL/5gal (19L) = 1.59ppm to the following schedule on my 132G mixed reef with the REDSEA DOSE4.

My lighting schedule is 0800-1800+3hr of moonlight (Radion AB+).

0700 - 27ml (1 hour before lights on)
1300 - 27ml
1900 - 27ml (1 hour after lights off)
0100 - 3ml
0120 - 3ml
0140 - 3ml
0200 - 3ml
0220 - 3ml
0240 - 3ml
0300 - 3ml
0320 - 3ml
0340 - 3ml
0400 - 3ml
0420 - 3ml
0440 - 3ml
0500 - 3ml
0520 - 3ml
0540 - 3ml
0600 - 3ml
0620 - 3ml
0640 - 3ml
Repeat cycle @ 0700 - 27ml till the last fish is seen without spots and then for another 6 weeks after that!

Wish me luck! I will try to cover the H2O2 Journey over on the following thread:

3% Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in a mixed reef tank (132G/500L)
 
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I'm on the 6th week of my H2O2 dosing, and I have lost 3/4 of my fishes. Honestly, I am disappointed at the treatment, maybe too little too late. While I am holding ICH at bay with my H2O2 and UV, I am slowly shifting my corals and inverts to another holding tank for 90 days, and preparing to Copper Power my whole display (bare bottom with PVCs only) for 45 days followed by another 14 days of PraziPro or Albendazole (I can't get Fluconazole), and another 30 days of observation before reintroducing the corals and invert.

36FC4687-C3E8-4EDD-80C6-F8757DABCA48.jpeg


Currently, my tank is overrun with Feather Dusters and Aiptasia covering my rocks. I'll be likely throwing out the rocks and I hope Copper and Praziquantel/Albendazole gets rid of the pests in the whole tank system though, wherever they may be hiding.
 
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Also I anticipation of lower bio activity due to weeks of H2O2, and the coming medication, I have my ATS and refugium removed, in favor of REASEA REEFMAT 1200. If ever I need my ATS, can just screw it back as they share the same 1” SPEARS Union.

F4B96325-EFB5-473D-8561-FCBBF94A9A5B.jpeg
3816E5A2-1D0D-4E7D-9AAD-046F5E28EC48.jpeg
C018867E-0837-45F2-A55B-680A08A9B210.jpeg
 
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For the record…DEC13(DAY75) Calling it a day for 3% H202 dosing + UV at slightly over 10 weeks.

IMHO, it has kept my remaining 1/4 of fishes spot free for the last 2-3 weeks where the fishes are less inclined to seek the cleaner wrasse’s service.

My take away from this exercise is to (1) start early at the first sign of spots, (2) go straight to the day+night dosing and (3) to go for the long haul… expect 3-4 months not just 6 weeks.

Would I do H2O2 again? Probably only as a last resort as per the above scenario but much, much earlier. UV shall be on 24/7 regardless, as per what I’ve done for eons.

As of today I’m starting with 1.5ppm Copper Power in my display tank and raising to 2.5ppm over the next 48 hours. At 2.5ppm to hold for 30 days or more, 1 week to ”de-copper”, followed by Prazipro for another 2 weeks. Thereafter, likely an ICP, prior introducing my new scape And corals (currently laying fallow in holding tank).

8CD3C1AE-98FB-467F-9353-467132808A1B.jpeg
 
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My current Fish Only With PVC (FOWPVC) in display tank for ICH eradication are…

4 Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi)

2 Banana Moray (Gymnothorax milaris) - Undergoing HTTM in a separate tank.

1 Copperband Butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus)

1 Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loricula)

1M1F Bismaculatus Anthia (Pseudanthias bimaculatus)
1M1F Evansi Anthia (Pseudanthias evansi)
1M1F Dispar Anthia (Pseudanthias dispar)
1F Hutomo’s Anthia (Pseudanthias hutomoi)
1M1F Lyretail Anthia (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)
1F Sunset Anthia (Pseudanthias parvirostris)
1M1F Resplendent Anthia (Pseudanthias pulcherrimus)

1 Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon)
1 Whitetail Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus flavicauda)
1 Blonde Naso Tang (Naso elegans)
1 Desjardin Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma desjardini)
1 Gem Tang (Zebrasoma gemmatum)
1 Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

1 China Tamarin Wrasse (Anampses neoguinaicus)
1 Aqua Marine Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus aquamarinus)
1 Naoko’s Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus naokoae)
1 Radiant Wrasse (Halichoeres iridis)
1 Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)
1 Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus)
1 Mystery Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus ocellatus)

3 Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris)
2 Red Dartfish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
1 Purple Tilefish (Hoplolatilus purpureus)
1 Springer Damsel (Chrysiptera springeri)
1 Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)
1 Bristletail Filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus)
 
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Got my Copper Power up from Tuesday 1.5ppm to this today (about 72hrs later).
F4645191-5ABE-41DB-A2E8-7B60BAB59DDC.jpeg


Fishes are all ok and eating, but I lost my 6” Blonde Naso today. Got him about 3 weeks earlier with a slightly pitched stomach but got it eating nori with some praziquantel medicated food (Dr Gill’s Dewormer). It was still eating yesterday with gusto, but today it suddenly breathing heavily, eyes were sunken, the whole body went bone thin but with a bloated stomach, barely swimming at the bottom of the tank. Moved it to a bucket of fresh salt water and it died shortly thereafter. First casualty.
 
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Today marks the end of my 30 days copper treatment with 0 casualty on remaining 40 fiahes. Over this week I shall reduce down the copper to below 1ppm and start with the 2 weeks of praziquantel treatment and 2 weeks of observation.

The following are the readings from the HANNA COPPER HR tests.

132G/500L Display Tank w Copper Power @ 2.5ppm

DAYDATEAMPM
0116/12 F2.44*2.39
0217/12 S--
0318/12 S--
0419/12 M2.33-
0520/12 T2.62*-
0621/12 W2.30*2.24
0722/12 T2.40-
0823/12 F3.00*2.83*
0924/12 S--
1025/12 S--
1126/12 M--
1227/12 T2.32-
1328/12 W2.25-
1429/12 T2.54*-
1530/12 F2.47-
1631/12 S--
1701/01 S--
1802/01 M--
1903/01 T2.142.36
2004/01 W2.50*-
2105/01 T2.44-
2206/01 F-2.26
2307/01 S--
2408/01 S--
2509/01 M2.32-
2610/01 T2.30-
2711/01 W2.47*-
2812/01 T2.29-
2913/01 F-2.33
3014/01 S--
3115/01 S--
3216/01 M2.61*-
(*) No compensation dose needed.
 
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My current fish stocks...

1M1F Bismaculatus Anthia (Pseudanthias bimaculatus)
1M1F Evansi Anthia (Pseudanthias evansi)
1M1F Dispar Anthia (Pseudanthias dispar)
1F Hutomo’s Anthia (Pseudanthias hutomoi)
1M1F Lyretail Anthia (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)
1F Sunset Anthia (Pseudanthias parvirostris)
1M1F Resplendent Anthia (Pseudanthias pulcherrimus)

1 Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon)
1 Whitetail Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus flavicauda)
1 Desjardin Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma desjardini)
1 Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
1 Gem Tang (Zebrasoma gemmatum)
1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

1 China Tamarin Wrasse (Anampses neoguinaicus)
1 Aqua Marine Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus aquamarinus)
1 Naoko’s Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus naokoae)
1 Radiant Wrasse (Halichoeres iridis)
1 Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)
1 Mystery Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus ocellatus)
1 Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus)

4 Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi)
3 Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris)
2 Banana Moray (Gymnothorax milaris)
2 Red Dartfish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
1 Purple Tilefish (Hoplolatilus purpureus)
1 Springer Damsel (Chrysiptera springeri)
1 Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)
1 Bristletail Filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus)
1 Copperband Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus)
1 Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula)
 
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Changed about 80% of water yesterday and today's copper at 0.20ppm, looks like I can start the praziquantel treatment earlier than expected.

21D04022-6FEB-4EA9-96B0-4E6D02E20076.jpeg
 
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First dose of PraziPRO, so far all fishes including wrasses are handling well.
99C5A116-8CFE-4CAD-AADA-4EC656642049.jpeg


Removed the skimmer cup for aeration.
1B8941B0-E5FB-4442-A325-8BF2254F2E43.jpeg
 
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Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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