Reefkeeper Lite

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Just got my RKL up and running. What a pain to program! Lol
I have it set up as follows:
Power Bar 1
Ch 1 Refugium led
Ch 2 Heater
Ch 3 Skimmer
Ch 4 T5’s supplement lights over display
My question is there are 4 blue LEDs on the right side from top to bottom are they suppose to be lit when it has power to the outlet or is that a communication led lit for module 1 ?
My fuge light, Skimmer, and heater are all on but only the top blue led is lit.
Also where should I mount the itemp probe? My fuge has the heater in the first chamber with my Skimmer and overflow tubes, I have 25 lbs of live rock and a basketball size of chaeto in it, 3rd and final chamber has my return pump, gfo/carbon reactor, and dosing tubes. I was thinking about installing it in my overflow is that ok?
 
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Anyone?
 

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The blue LEDs indicate that the particular output is energized. There is an LED above the blue LEDs is an indicator showing the status of the power bar. I put my temp probe in the display and put the heater in the sump.
 

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Not sure why your blue lights aren't on if the equipment is powered.
 
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Nor do I lol this controller is smarter then me I think lol
 
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Ah I’m a idiot. I looking at the wrong lights. The 1 blue led on the controller tells me there’s 1 module powered. The blue LEDs on the PB4 tell me if the outlet is on or off. I was looking at the wrong display. Lol
As for my heaters I think I’m going to put the probe where my overflows are plumbed and my heaters in the 2ns chamber with my chaeto unless y’all think that’s a bad idea.
 

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That top LED can change color depending on the status of the module too. I put my temp probe in the tank because that's where I want to monitor the water temp. It's all subjective I think. Whatever works for you.
 

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Ah I’m a idiot. I looking at the wrong lights. The 1 blue led on the controller tells me there’s 1 module powered. The blue LEDs on the PB4 tell me if the outlet is on or off. I was looking at the wrong display. Lol
As for my heaters I think I’m going to put the probe where my overflows are plumbed and my heaters in the 2ns chamber with my chaeto unless y’all think that’s a bad idea.
The blue lights on the head unit are how many modules are connected to the system. Only 4 are allowed. Even if they are disconnected from the system it will still count as a module for the system. If you only have the PB4 then you should only have one light lit.
 

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It is a lot easier to program using myReef but that would require a splitter such as the HUB module which is a 5 way buss splitter. To program using myReef requires the SID to be connected when the system is up and running. With the iTemp connected there are no open buss ports to connect the SID.
 
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After I downloaded MYREEF 2.0 it was easy. To program it you unplug the Itemp and program through that port. The iTemp is not to be plugged in per the online directions. I think it’s only to use that port for programming not because it will do anything to it. The iTemp is not a piece of hardware that can be updated or anything else so that makes sense to me.
 

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The HUB module will allow you to leave it plugged in. The HUB or the NET modules do not count toward the 4 module limit on the RKL. The ITemp is actually the same temp sensor as the ones used with the SL modules. The only difference is the plug. The iTemp uses 2 of the wires on the buss cables to connect to the temp port inside the RKL head unit. So you are correct about the iTemp port.
 
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The HUB module will allow you to leave it plugged in. The HUB or the NET modules do not count toward the 4 module limit on the RKL. The ITemp is actually the same temp sensor as the ones used with the SL modules. The only difference is the plug. The iTemp uses 2 of the wires on the buss cables to connect to the temp port inside the RKL head unit. So you are correct about the iTemp port.
What is the purpose of the HUB? I assume just to keep the install cleaner looking. Sorry for the silly question but this aquarium controller world is all new to me. Lol
 

n2585722

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The HUB is a 5 way buss splitter and also has a 9v 500ma power input jack to help power the buss if needed. With the PB4's it is unlikely you will need more buss power though. Without the HUB them modules have to be daisy chained together.
RKL->module1->module2->module3->module4

With the HUB it can be as shown below. This would give you three places to attach a SID.

HUB-> RKL
HUB-> module1
HUB-> module2
HUB-> module3
HUB-> module4-> iTemp

This does not make much sense with the RKL and one module unless you need to connect the SID to the RKL while you have the iTemp connected. myReef does have graphing but requires the system to be connected to a computer running 24/7 to work. If you have the RKE or Archon with several modules the HUB's are a help in distributing the power evenly accross the modules. In my system I currently use one. I have 5 PC4's an SLX, SL2v2, SL2, SL1, SW5, MLC, AVC and 5 DP1's. The HUB and the Archon.

At the Tank

HUB-> Buss to garage
HUB-> PC4-> MLC-> AVC
HUB-> PC4-> SLX -> SL2v2
HUB-> PC4-> SL2-> SW5
HUB->Archon

In the garage

From HUB at Tank-> PC4-> PC4-> SL1-> DP1-> DP1-> DP1-> DP1-> DP1

In a large system it makes sense to have multiple strings of modules. That way if you need to disconnect a module for some reason it will only affect the modules after that module in that string. In mine I would have 5 places to attach another module. The Archon itself has 4 buss ports. One is used for the iTemp probe. I cannot connect to the last DP1 due to power on the buss for the DP1's. These have to be at the end of a string. A SID is not compatible with the Archon other than to update the RK modules if needed. The NET is another module that is not compatible with the Archon. It is not needed since networking is built into the Archon itself. I do plan on getting another HUB for the garage and another for my other tank once it is setup.

Hope this helps explain the need.
 
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Yes it does thank you sir.
 

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Just unplugged my reefkeeper lite to move to another tank and now I forget where the heater was plugged... isn't it supposed to work on channel 2 or 3, and not on 1 and 4?
 
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I have both my 300 watt heaters hooked into a Y plugged into channel 3 and have not had any issues.
 

Eggpaul

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I have both my 300 watt heaters hooked into a Y plugged into channel 3 and have not had any issues.


Oh wow, really? So do you set both at the same temp? The channel can handle the amps?
 

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I have both my 300 watt heaters hooked into a Y plugged into channel 3 and have not had any issues.
I believe that 600 watts exceeds the current rating on that channel. It is only rated up to 3 amps of current. At 120 volts 360 watts would be absolute max for that channel. You have 600 watts attached. One 300 watt heater is pushing it. Two you are asking for trouble.
 

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