ReefSentinel’s 200g Mini Barrier Reef build.
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OP
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ReefSentinel
Active Member
Thank Janci,
Actually the emergency return is plumbed to go into the refugium section next to the return section but I can’t see any reason why it couldn’t go to the return section.
In my case the i plumbed it this way as I didn’t have the height beneath the tank for all 3 returns to go to the same side.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Hi All,
Well we have a bit of movement this weekend with testing of the plumbing.
The real for test water of plumbing and weir.
So far i have only found the 1 link which is on the Neptune Flow sensor screw connection.:mad: - easy fix.
Now I have a few problems with the setup following the plumbing test.
Water Pressure - I have a lift/head of approx. (165cm) 5ft for the return pipe which I did take into consideration when I purchased the COR20 as it can do 7500LPH (2000GPH) hoping I would get around the 5500-6000ltr out of, 600ltr/hr for the chiller / refugium and the rest for the main return/UV line.
This didn't way out to well,
My best return LPH is around the 2000lph which is not going to be enough for the UV and this is without feeding the Chiller line.
SO where now - didn't really want to go down the more money path but looks like I need a larger pump, considering I already have a COR20 I think I will need a Abyzz A200 which can do up to 17000LPH.
Another issue found is my Bean Animal drain setup, a few problems which may improve if I had more flow - hard to tell.
Issue no. 1 Standpipes for both the main drain and secondary drain need to be a little taller as there is a 2cm/1" drop of water from the tank to the water level in the weir which makes to much noise. (Need to keep wifey happy, min noise.
I don't have a lot of room in there but I think I can do better than existing, I reduced the gate valve on the main drain which increased the weir water height and it was almost silent, so i think this is the way to go.
Well we have a bit of movement this weekend with testing of the plumbing.
The real for test water of plumbing and weir.
So far i have only found the 1 link which is on the Neptune Flow sensor screw connection.:mad: - easy fix.
Now I have a few problems with the setup following the plumbing test.
Water Pressure - I have a lift/head of approx. (165cm) 5ft for the return pipe which I did take into consideration when I purchased the COR20 as it can do 7500LPH (2000GPH) hoping I would get around the 5500-6000ltr out of, 600ltr/hr for the chiller / refugium and the rest for the main return/UV line.
This didn't way out to well,
My best return LPH is around the 2000lph which is not going to be enough for the UV and this is without feeding the Chiller line.
SO where now - didn't really want to go down the more money path but looks like I need a larger pump, considering I already have a COR20 I think I will need a Abyzz A200 which can do up to 17000LPH.
Another issue found is my Bean Animal drain setup, a few problems which may improve if I had more flow - hard to tell.
Issue no. 1 Standpipes for both the main drain and secondary drain need to be a little taller as there is a 2cm/1" drop of water from the tank to the water level in the weir which makes to much noise. (Need to keep wifey happy, min noise.
I don't have a lot of room in there but I think I can do better than existing, I reduced the gate valve on the main drain which increased the weir water height and it was almost silent, so i think this is the way to go.
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OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Also it anyone out there can assist with a Apex issue it would be very much appreciated.
Problem - I have two different times,
I have read a few different forums and tried a few different things but still can not get the two clocks to be the same and anything using the time is working off Apex time not my local time.
Only way I can make them the same is to adjust the time offset which i don't think should be the way to do it.
Problem - I have two different times,
I have read a few different forums and tried a few different things but still can not get the two clocks to be the same and anything using the time is working off Apex time not my local time.
Only way I can make them the same is to adjust the time offset which i don't think should be the way to do it.
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Janci
Staghorns will prevail
Nice video.Hi All,
Well we have a bit of movement this weekend with testing of the plumbing.
The real for test water of plumbing and weir.
So far i have only found the 1 link which is on the Neptune Flow sensor screw connection.:mad: - easy fix.
Now I have a few problems with the setup following the plumbing test.
Water Pressure - I have a lift/head of approx. (165cm) 5ft for the return pipe which I did take into consideration when I purchased the COR20 as it can do 7500LPH (2000GPH) hoping I would get around the 5500-6000ltr out of, 600ltr/hr for the chiller / refugium and the rest for the main return/UV line.
This didn't way out to well,
My best return LPH is around the 2000lph which is not going to be enough for the UV and this is without feeding the Chiller line.
SO where now - didn't really want to go down the more money path but looks like I need a larger pump, considering I already have a COR20 I think I will need a Abyzz A200 which can do up to 17000LPH.
Another issue found is my Bean Animal drain setup, a few problems which may improve if I had more flow - hard to tell.
Issue no. 1 Standpipes for both the main drain and secondary drain need to be a little taller as there is a 2cm/1" drop of water from the tank to the water level in the weir which makes to much noise. (Need to keep wifey happy, min noise.
I don't have a lot of room in there but I think I can do better than existing, I reduced the gate valve on the main drain which increased the weir water height and it was almost silent, so i think this is the way to go.
It looks like you are right. You will need more flow, before adjusting the overflow pipes.
Flow loses due to 90 degree bends are easily forgotten and can add a lot to the equation.
There are some websites that can help you calculate the pump head.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Hi Janci,
I have done a few online calculators today, all very much the same.
Basically losing 5ft of head straight off the bat which will reduce Max flow down to 1400GHP (5300lhp) once you add all the fitting and pipe it all gets worst.
CaptPatrick
Active Member
Not sure if someone has asked yet, where did you get the storage tanks? Those would be perfect size for what I need. Thanks, still reading beginning but looks like it will be sweet.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Hi CaptPatrick,
These tanks are surprisingly made in Australia and sold through a local hardware chain.
Maze 100L Rainwater Mini Tank - Maze Products Australia
100 litre storage capacity; Water tap included; Snap on lid; Made in Australia. The Mini Tank 100 is the most compact tank available in the Maze range.
www.mazeproducts.com.au
Not sure if they export their product but you could email them.
thanks for the comments
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Not much sleep last night thinking about solutions,
Decided to do a test this morning to help isolate where lose in pressure is.
Test - disconnected the return from the UV and put it straight back into the sump.
Results - Pump running at 100% gave a flow of 2706LHP (715GHP)
Yesterday the full pumping and return to tank was was reading 2182LHP (577GHP)
This means I am losing approx. 524LHP (138GHP) after the UV pushing up to the tank.
Now the vertical lift from UV to Tank return is approx. 4ft, going off the COR20 specs i am going to lose 400GHP which seems to work out once you add a few 90deg.
I am looking at rotating the UV horizontal as I am thinking from the sump to the manifold I have lost 60cm (almost 2ft) when the manifold drops down to feed the UV then back up I am pushing up again which I am guessing is add to the head pressure and possibly losing another 757lhp( 200GHP)
All a bit disappointing, try to plan everything & there is always something that wasn't fully through about.
Decided to do a test this morning to help isolate where lose in pressure is.
Test - disconnected the return from the UV and put it straight back into the sump.
Results - Pump running at 100% gave a flow of 2706LHP (715GHP)
Yesterday the full pumping and return to tank was was reading 2182LHP (577GHP)
This means I am losing approx. 524LHP (138GHP) after the UV pushing up to the tank.
Now the vertical lift from UV to Tank return is approx. 4ft, going off the COR20 specs i am going to lose 400GHP which seems to work out once you add a few 90deg.
I am looking at rotating the UV horizontal as I am thinking from the sump to the manifold I have lost 60cm (almost 2ft) when the manifold drops down to feed the UV then back up I am pushing up again which I am guessing is add to the head pressure and possibly losing another 757lhp( 200GHP)
All a bit disappointing, try to plan everything & there is always something that wasn't fully through about.
Last edited:
Oberst Hajj
Well-Known Member
Would a second COR 20 or even a COR 15 be an option to run just the UV (not 100% sure how your plumbing is setup). That would get you the flow you need and give you a spare pump on hand that you could pull off the UV to replace the return if ever needed.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Hi Oberst Hajj
Have been looking and different options.
Basically need to produce 4700ltr/hr, need around 3700lph to go through UV for it to work correctly and 600-800lph to go through chiller/refugium.
Looking at a return rate back to the tank of around the 4000lph which will give me around a 4 time tank turnover through sump.
After better research I know the COR20 is not going to come close to the requirements not at 75% capacity which is where I would like to run the pump at ideally.
I ordered new piping bits and pieces to change the main return to be 32mm all the way to the split at the top of the tank/returns, this is the line that goes through the UV, this will help a little but more importantly if I purchase a abyzz A200 the pump will have large enough pipe as current setup is 1/2 of run is 32 then it reduces before to UV to 25.
If I go A200 I will split the Manifold and use the COR20 to feed manifold and chiller/refugium and have the A200 feed only the main return line which has the UV.
With the way the plumbing is a space restrictions I can’t see many other way and don’t really want to completely change all the plumbing as the way it is now works well in the space.
Oberst Hajj
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you have a good plan in place.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Busy weekend, but also got plumbing mods complete.
Abyzz pumps seems well packed, even received an Abyzz pen with the pump, must be what they give you in Germany when you buy a top shelf pump
Changed out most of the 25mm diameter I had out to 32mm.
Just need to figure out the position of both pumps and how they exi
also need to mount the Abyzz controller, thinking either inside above sump or in with the other electrical gear, unfortunately I can’t mount it on the main display panel.
Abyzz pumps seems well packed, even received an Abyzz pen with the pump, must be what they give you in Germany when you buy a top shelf pump
Changed out most of the 25mm diameter I had out to 32mm.
Just need to figure out the position of both pumps and how they exi
also need to mount the Abyzz controller, thinking either inside above sump or in with the other electrical gear, unfortunately I can’t mount it on the main display panel.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Thanks Janci,
At some point a plan to purchase the connection cable between the Apex and the Abyzz so I can control during feeds etc so most likely end up putting inside with other electrical gear, Murphy’s law if the controller is above the sump I am sure to splash water on it somehow.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
Thanks count Krunk.
Definitely a journey, been many ups and a few downs but am enjoying it so far.
I guess doing most of the work myself has added to the time however this is the part I enjoy the most plus it is teaching me patients and more about the hobby along the way.
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
After thinking of many plumbing’s options for the 2 pumps in the return section finally at 4.30am this morning before leaving for work I looked at the problem again and figured it out, amazing what a fresh view does.
Main solution was to fit two 90’s on the underside of the sump return, this allowed 1 return pump to be moved more to one end, ideally the 90’s aren’t the best but this is a secondary pump feeding the chiller and manifold, pump will most likely only run at 25-30%
.Main return pump Abyzz A200 is connected straight up to a flex pipe straight to the UV then to the top of the tank.
Main solution was to fit two 90’s on the underside of the sump return, this allowed 1 return pump to be moved more to one end, ideally the 90’s aren’t the best but this is a secondary pump feeding the chiller and manifold, pump will most likely only run at 25-30%
OP
OP
ReefSentinel
Active Member
More working on plumbing and fine tuning of the bean animal setup.
Abyzz in powered up, so from the Abyzz A200 the water goes into the UV and up the back of the tank then splits into 2 x 25mm pipes feeding the 2 nozzles.
My plan was to get 3000-4000litres /hr through the UV with the Abyzz at 80% (no boost) I can achieve the 3000l/hr which is good with a little extra available.
Now that the flow is sorted I knew I would have to play with the original Bean Animal setup, end increasing the height of both the main and secondary drains for2 reasons.
- 1. Reduce the noise from the water coming over the weir edge into the weir as it was falling approximately 1”
- 2. By raising both pipes reduced the amount of water that goes into sump when pump is turned off, both that I had a problem but best to be safer.
Noise wise very happy with spending the extra time on the plumbing as it is almost silent.
still testing the whole system plumbing, plan to run for a few day then change water out,
Abyzz in powered up, so from the Abyzz A200 the water goes into the UV and up the back of the tank then splits into 2 x 25mm pipes feeding the 2 nozzles.
My plan was to get 3000-4000litres /hr through the UV with the Abyzz at 80% (no boost) I can achieve the 3000l/hr which is good with a little extra available.
Now that the flow is sorted I knew I would have to play with the original Bean Animal setup, end increasing the height of both the main and secondary drains for2 reasons.
- 1. Reduce the noise from the water coming over the weir edge into the weir as it was falling approximately 1”
- 2. By raising both pipes reduced the amount of water that goes into sump when pump is turned off, both that I had a problem but best to be safer.
Noise wise very happy with spending the extra time on the plumbing as it is almost silent.
still testing the whole system plumbing, plan to run for a few day then change water out,
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