Ritteri help

adamg77

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Hello,

I purchased a ritteri on Monday. Water was clear tentacles extended and inflated when arrived. Acclimated to temp and salinity.
Monday looked great extended and inflated. Tentacles sticky.
Tuesday no deflation noted no water change. Tentacles sticky. Wouldn’t eat picked up food after it let go. Mouth closed
Wednesday morning looked the same. Performed a water change temp and salinity the same. Approximately two hours after water change it is the last picture. Will keep an eye on it when do I start the cipro?

I understand cipro treatment is controversial for some. This is my second ritteri the first died and do not want that to happen again.

@OrionN

Thank you IMG_4089.jpeg
Day 2

IMG_4098.jpeg
Shortly after water change.
 
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A

adamg77

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I’m thinking I should not have performed the water change as everything appeared great.
I will continue to monitor and update as the situation changes.
 

billysprout

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if it’s deflating and inflating, dose cipro when it’s deflated so it takes in the treated water. but don’t wait more than an hour at this point.

remove brown stuff immediately.

definitely give it more light, fighting the infection takes a lot of energy and it’s expelling its zoox (the brown stuff). consider adding aminos to the treated water.

how old is your wc water? did you make it with rodi and confirm the salinity? was it the right temp?
 
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adamg77

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if it’s deflating and inflating, dose cipro when it’s deflated so it takes in the treated water. but don’t wait more than an hour at this point.

remove brown stuff immediately.

definitely give it more light, fighting the infection takes a lot of energy and it’s expelling its zoox (the brown stuff). consider adding aminos to the treated water.

how old is your wc water? did you make it with rodi and confirm the salinity? was it the right temp?
Removed brown stuff as soon as I saw it.
I made the water the night prior confirmed salinity oh and temp prior to changing water. image.jpg
It inflated shortly after dosing cipro. I also added added another light
 
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adamg77

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Day 7
image.jpg

On Day 6 it started to lift its foot off the rock. No other changes. Not looking good

It has not deflated completely since day 4 and has not pushed out any brown stuff at all today.
 

Ken S

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What kind of lights are you running? Did you take any Par readings? In my experience, you can give a Ritteri too much par. I have kept two ritteri's. One for 12 years and the one I have now for 6 months. I have never seen either deflate like that even one single time. I had a Rose that would deflate and inflate all the time, but neither of my Ritteri's have ever deflated. They are voracious eaters. The one I had 12 years got to 24" across and 18" tall and would eat 1-2 large shimp (soaked in Selcon) per week. This one I have now I have has 6 months. It was approx 6" when I got it, it is 12" now. Again, feeding raw shrimp (from the grocery story, just like you or I would eat) soaked in Selcon. I have this one up about 1/3rd of a shimp/week, and the bigger it gets I will keep increasing. This on top of what it gets from the paid of clowns I have. They are always taking food and spitting it out in the nem.
Screenshot_20250317_192923_Gallery.jpg
20250215_184556.jpg
 

tripdad

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What kind of lights are you running? Did you take any Par readings? In my experience, you can give a Ritteri too much par. I have kept two ritteri's. One for 12 years and the one I have now for 6 months. I have never seen either deflate like that even one single time. I had a Rose that would deflate and inflate all the time, but neither of my Ritteri's have ever deflated. They are voracious eaters. The one I had 12 years got to 24" across and 18" tall and would eat 1-2 large shimp (soaked in Selcon) per week. This one I have now I have has 6 months. It was approx 6" when I got it, it is 12" now. Again, feeding raw shrimp (from the grocery story, just like you or I would eat) soaked in Selcon. I have this one up about 1/3rd of a shimp/week, and the bigger it gets I will keep increasing. This on top of what it gets from the paid of clowns I have. They are always taking food and spitting it out in the nem.
20250215_184556.jpg
Nice looking set up you have there!
 

Ken S

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Nice looking set up you have there!
Thank you, Sir! I am really enjoying taking care of this tank after being out of the hobby almost 15 years. I know a slab fabricator & was able to have quartz slabs made for the floor & up the wall behind the tank for super cheap. I think it adds nice touch to the overall look.
 

D-Nak

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Day 7
image.jpg

On Day 6 it started to lift its foot off the rock. No other changes. Not looking good

It has not deflated completely since day 4 and has not pushed out any brown stuff at all today.
Are you saying it's not looking good because it's not fully attached? It could be that it just doesn't like the rock its on. Other than it not being attached, I think it looks good.
 

OrionN

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If it really does not like where it is at, to low flow or/and light it will just let go and go with the flow to a better place. Here in our tank this usually mean disaster in the PH or Overflow.
I always have high flow (many people consider too high flow) and NEVER have problem with Gigantea and Magnifica moving or get chew up by flow generating equipment's. I also never cover my MP60. I almost exclusively use Vortec and Koralia for flow in my tanks.
Light is important too. You can't (within reason) provide too much light for Magnifica and Gigantea.
 

Ken S

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Day 7
image.jpg

On Day 6 it started to lift its foot off the rock. No other changes. Not looking good

It has not deflated completely since day 4 and has not pushed out any brown stuff at all today.
How is your Ritteri doing?

What kind of light do you have? Ritteri's need a lot of light & flow.
 

The new fish on the block

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definitely give it more light, fighting the infection takes a lot of energy and it’s expelling its zoox (the brown stuff). consider adding aminos to the treated water.
@billysprout could expand on why you would want to add aminos? Just curious since I have a mag that I am trying to nurse back to health after a bleaching event.


OP, sorry to derail your thread! I hope your nem is doing well.
 

D-Nak

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Anecdotally speaking, I've found that adding amino acids while QTing provides the anemone with nutrients that require minimal processing on the anemone's part --meaning it doesn't have to ingest and break down food. At least that's my thought process, I can't prove that it's true or not, but it doesn't seem to negatively affect the anemones that I QT.
 

billysprout

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Anecdotally speaking, I've found that adding amino acids while QTing provides the anemone with nutrients that require minimal processing on the anemone's part --meaning it doesn't have to ingest and break down food. At least that's my thought process, I can't prove that it's true or not, but it doesn't seem to negatively affect the anemones that I QT.
agreed, they also have to take in water to absorb the aminos and thus get better exposure to the antibiotics in that water.

these are mind stories with no scientific backing but i pull out all the stops for my nems
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Just an fyi, however, adding amino acids can at least theoretically do two things (as it does in a reef tank overall):

1. Increase the rate of production of ammonia.

2. Drive the growth of bacteria, which can include pathogens.

I'm not claiming it isn't desirable or useful or whatever, but just sounding a cautionary note to keep an eye out.
 

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