Saltwater ich

[cmcoker]

Now that you mention spots all over it, how many spots are you talking? Velvet is often described as "spots all over" . Are you sure which it is, ich or velvet?

 

[ktisdale22]

I would say too many to count. On my large raccoon I would say 20-40?

 

[cmcoker]

Can you post some pics? Too many to count is classic description for velvet. Any swimming into powerheads, hiding from light?

 

[ktisdale22]

Absolutely. However at the moment the moment they do not have any spots ... Murphy's Law! This is typically what happens... No spots, then spots out of nowhere I treat with an herbal parasite med and about an hour later not spots and everyone is hungry. The raccoon and half black angel go through spells when they are not interested in food?

 

[ktisdale22]

Currently... Healthy all of a sudden

 

[robert]

If you have no corals in your system....Here is an in tank treatment manipulating salinity only.

Reduce salinity to 10ppm for 3 hours every third day for a total of four hyposalinity treatments.. Fish should be clear in 5-8 days with total in tank eradication of the CI parasite.

 

[ktisdale22]

Ok great thank you. Would 10ppm be 1.0 on my hydrometer? Sorry I'm new

 

[KyleC.]

Are those fake anemones in the pictures? Hypo, I imagine would be a death sentence if done in that tank, if not...

 

[ktisdale22]

Yes fake

 

[cmcoker]

Ok great thank you. Would 10ppm be 1.0 on my hydrometer? Sorry I'm new

If you are going to try Hypo, you should pick up a refractometer. And shoot for 1.010, iirc. I would be hesitant to start hypo until you verify ich vs velvet.

 

[robert]

Yes this is CI (ich) only.

Its a variant of TTM but can be done in tank. Your not touching the trophonts - your inducing an osmotic shock which is effective on the tomonts and tomites.

Remove, filter and store 2/3 volume of tank. Replace with temp matched, dechlorinated tap (use rodi if you want- taps just easier). At the end of three hours remove 2/3 water and discard.
Return your stored tank water and adjust salinity to desired levels. Repeat every third day...four times.

 

[ktisdale22]

When you say... Remove, and filter 2/3 volume... Are you saying take 2/3 of the water out of my DT?

 

[ktisdale22]

Also I'm not following the filter part... Sorry again I'm new

 

[robert]

Yes - and store. Maybe in something like a brute trash can...depends on the volume of your tank of course. You can filter through a filter sock (or not). Just that you might take out some trophonts if you do. Keep this water heated and circulated with a power-head/pump - whatever you have on hand.

Refill the tank with temp matched dechlorinated tap - you will prepare this in advance, again in a brute or suitable container. Wait 3 hours - drain 2/3 of the water again (this goes straight down the drain) and replace with the stored tank water. Fix salinity after.

Established, healthy BTAs will tolerate this as well in my experience although they may split shortly after.

 

[robert]

Coraline algae might turn white (probably will) - the bio-filter should not be too damaged, but keep prime or safe on the ready should you see an ammonia spike (probably won't).

 

[JaimeAdams]

Hypo is done at 1.09. There are some strains of parasite that can live below 1.09, I imagine that they are somewhat rare. If your salinity raises to 1.10 you need to start over., so can be a bit difficult to maintain. Also keep in mind that you would have to do that for an extended period of time. It's all in the fish disease sub forum stickies. I would in no reality try that using a hydrometer. I have never heard of the 5-8 day hypo shock method described above.

 

[robert]

Its actually an old method - from the 80's. The biggest downside is the water handling requirements. The upside is its fast and effective, plus you can use antibiotics should the need arise due to secondary infection - frayed fins - etc. It also does not throw your tank off with respect to algaes that others have run into with the 30 day hypo route as your running normal salinity except during the three hour shock intervals. Its essentially the tank transfer method without the stress of catching the fish.

If the water handling is an obstacle - read the stickies in the disease forum as JaimeAdams suggests...30 day hypo is another option.

 

[ktisdale22]

UPDATE ON ICH/VELVET SITUATION!!!!

So I spent the last month ordering a bunch of meds from Copper Power to chloroquine phosphate. trying to decide if I was going to basically breakdown my 180 gallon tank, and treat it or of I was just going to get out of the hobby altogether. Well after about 4 weeks of treating with LFS ich treatments (about 150 later) multiple water changes (nitrates are out of control all of a sudden) the fish seem to be recovering, my Raccoon angel is the only fish that shows signs of parasites. It's in the morning and it's 3-5 spots that fall off with in an hour. This obviously tells me that the parasites are still in my tank, but are they dying? What are the chances that with continued treatment and water changes my fish will out live the parasites? I have a 35 gal QT that I can set up and will of I decide to stay in the hobby ( as I promised the fish God's that I will never put another fish on the tank with out QT process.) I just know that if I add a fish in the future that the stress from additional fish will most likely cause an out break. My favorite part of this hobby so far is getting feedback from the Saltwater fish pros on this site any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[barber42]

Where did you get the chloroquine phosphate?

 

[ktisdale22]

Online somewhere, I can check if you like? Why do you ask?