Schrauf’s Waterbox Peninsula Mini 25

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Good quality salt. Probably not the issue.
I’ll leave it for a bit again to let my corals recover and see how it goes
 
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Schraufabagel

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Very great full and excited to see my tank as the thumbnail for instagram and twitter posts

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Count me very confused. My red cyano is still around after 2 chemi-clean treatments this past two weeks. My NO3 and phosphate have been in check for over 2 months (5 ppm and 0.05 ppm respectively) and never bottomed out. My TDS from my source water is 0 before I mix it with salt. Same with my ATO water. I also regularly run ROX carbon in a media bag which I change out monthly. I'm considering doing an ICP test now since I am not sure what else it would be other than some out of what metals or something (if that even is a cause)

Secondly, my corals have retracted over the past two weeks. My xenia, hammer, leptastrea and zoas are all receded. However, my toadstool, rhodactis shrooms, GSP, colt leather, and monitpora digi are doing fantastic as usual. And oddly enough, two weeks ago is when my duncan's tentacles started full extending and it's looking happier. I have not changed lighting and I have only changed flow by around 200 GPH when I tried to save my blenny. So I'm at a loss for what could have affected those corals other than chemi-clean. My Mg and Ca are a little low and I am raising them. I use Red Sea Coral Pro salt, so that shouldn't be an issue. Also, I did a water change 2 days ago and that didn't affect anything.
 
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I think I figured out what might be contributing to my corals being unhappy. My temperature probe must’ve fallen out when I was rewiring a week ago. It’s been relying on the heater thermometers to set temp. So it’s been running at 80.8 degrees in stead of 78
 
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Moved my refugium light from being attached to the back glass to being mounted above the chamber. My chaeto has been dying off over the past month and I think it’s because too much pest algae has been growing on the glass over the light. This way the light is unobstructed and will hopefully work better. I’m thinking this may have been why I have been struggling to kick cyano out; my guess is that’s what has been taking up the nutrients as my refugium struggled

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It's been a bit since I posted last. I am still battling red cyano. NO3 and Phosphates are starting to drop more, so I think the chaeto is finally bouncing back. Let's hope this starts to out compete the cyano. Some of my corals still haven't fully recovered from the temperature issue, but they all seem to at least be fine for the time being.

Honestly, I can't wait to move to my new apartment in late March. Replacing all of the water and using new sand will hopefully help my tank have a soft reset. I'm also hoping the TDS of the source water at the new place will be slightly better
 
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Figured out the issue. My RODI membrane is putting our 36 TDS and the DI resin is only polishing it down to 8 TDS. I'm not sure how I missed this. There is still plenty of good DI resin left in the stage, but I wonder if I should add a second DI resin stage. I am using the RO/DI Buddy booster pump which puts my 100 GPH unit at ~ 90 PSI, so that shouldn't be an issue.
 
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I move apartments in late March. I’m thinking I may use this opportunity to attempt my macro algae mixed reef again. Below are some of the favorite examples from people I follow on Instagram. I’ve had mangroves, codium, and other calcified macro algaes but have struggled to keep them alive. I just haven’t been able to get lighting right.

I’ve considered switching to a UNS 60U and having a sloped aquascape allowing for mangroves, my current corals, and some other macro algaes

3950A160-B46A-494F-BAC6-CAED950E7D6F.jpeg 5A7D186A-A33D-466B-BECB-2CDD1CAE7D05.jpeg 854B0BEB-7F15-48FC-8796-5AA8060E3C63.jpeg E1CA4CE6-3C86-4CBD-A9E8-9341A88706A7.jpeg 88675179-E2F2-43B0-8A03-3BCF525A0745.jpeg 577371CB-AA47-4667-9449-96812F030D39.jpeg 0074C359-F9E0-4F2C-849A-6FB2DA7694D6.jpeg
 
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So I’m thinking what I may do is fill the scape with sand above this line. And then shift up the rock work a bit. Then I would place mangroves in the deep sand near the back. I would potentially also leave that cove open a bit if it doesn’t mess with flow.

I may also switch to a gyre pump for better flow across the entire tank.

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I really like this setup! I'll be interested to see which direction you decide to go with it
 
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I really like this setup! I'll be interested to see which direction you decide to go with it
I love the look of mixed reefs and I think if I can make it work then it should be a cool end result!
 
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Alternatively, I'm thinking I could potentially switch to an Innovative Marine Fusion Pro 2 Lagoon 25. The depth is 11.8" which would work far better for the style I've always wanted. The footprint of my cabinet is 28" by 21" which would be perfect for the 24" by 20" tank footprint.
 
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Alright, I pulled the trigger on the IM Fusion Pro 2 Lagoon 25. The dimensions also fit what I've wanted from the beginning, I just didn't have a spot for this style tank until I got my cabinet 2 months ago. I also got an upgraded size tank for my freshwater tank. So essentially I'll be swapping the places of the tanks.

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My plan is to keep the same rock work, corals, and fish. But I'll use the additional ground space for macro algae. The depth also supports mangroves far better. I'll probably get an AI Prime freshwater as well for splitting between the freshwater and reef lights.

I won't be switching the tank over until I move in late March though.
 
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Ordered a black AI Prime freshwater LED and hanging kit. Planning to suspend it with iron pipe similar to what I currently have over my peninsula mini
 
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The new tank arrives today. I think what I'm going to do is mix some new salt water and transfer the rock, coral, and livestock to the new tank. And I would keep it bare bottom until I move.

The red cyano overtook my chaeto and has killed it and has clogged most of the sump causing oxygenation issues. I figure now is as good a time as any to move everything in order to fix the issues. I have a Tunze DOC 9001 pump that fits the new tank perfectly and should work as a nutrient solution that has less chance of failing. Ultimately, I'm hoping a 100% water change may help too.
 
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Here's the new thread with my lagoon 25
 
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