Scrubbed my rocks today...

Briskee

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They say there's no such thing as a stupid question. Well, I'm going to put that to the test. I'll start by saying my water parameters are in line with recommended values and have been for a while. I do weekly water changes. I have 3 Hydra 64HD's on my 180 gallon peninsula tank. I run the lights 11 hours a day on a relatively low range. I checked my light settings with BRS since I have the same setup. They recommended a certain setting. I chose less intensity since I was just starting out. Make tank has been running for 2 years. In the last year, I've had to remove the rock and scrub GHA. I have LifeReef Live Rock. All things being equal, it seems like the rock is causing the GHA outbreak. Is that even possible? If testing consistently show low levels of PO4 and NO3, can rock cause an outbreak after a year? I've decent flow with a couple of Nero 7 under the waterbox. I've got a small livestock load, a hand full of corals and fish - basically starter fish/corals. I don't over feed the tank. Usually 3 Hikari Frozen cubes assorted and a piece of LRS Reef Frenzy. Would cleaning the sump help? I do change the socks with every water change? Does the mechanical filtration need to rinsed out or cleaned? Attached is couple pictures of the before/after today. Every rock was covered in algae like the Candy Cane. I'm still see diatom build-up on my powerheads. I clean those every month. I do have a CUC, but doesn't seem to be helping. My tank does get some indirect sunlight on one side, but not direct sunlight. I'm dosing Brightwell Reef Code A/B. If/when GHA starts again, I'm thinking about Vibrant, ChemiClean, Reef RX and any other way to rid my tank of this nuisance. This hobby is frustrating, but I LOVE the way my tank looks today (I ain't no quitter LOL). I wish it would stay this way.

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Freenow54

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Took me 6 months of scrubbing then one day poof gone never came back. No chemicals no changes. Was Not even on this forum then knew nothing. The idea came from a customer of mine. Luckily I had no Coral. Have never had it in my new tank. To be honest I inherited the tank. It has Fiji rock, and I know the previous owner dosed all the time. With what I don't know he was my sons friend and about 12
 

Subsea

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GHA is an opportunistic algae that requires competitors & consumers. I agree with getting diver collected uncured live rock.

I am not sure what the recommended parameters are today. Kindly post your numbers.
 

BryanM

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The rock you used is not real live rock from the ocean. Real live rock from Tampa Bay or Gulf Live Rock (or others) is a real shortcut to dealing with the uglies.

Dry rock, even infused with stuff, is still dry rock. It takes quite a while to cure and mature unfortunately.

Just as unfortunate as is the price of live rock, but if you can afford it, it is definitely the way to go.
 
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Briskee

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GHA is an opportunistic algae that requires competitors & consumers. I agree with getting diver collected uncured live rock.

I am not sure what the recommended parameters are today. Kindly post your numbers.
I use Hanna and Salifert. NO3 2 (S), PO4 0.00 (S), Ca 400 (S), kH 9.1 (H), pH 7.7.
 

Subsea

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@Briskee
I perused some of your threads. I think your cuc is insufficient.

Look at Reeftopia small blue hermits and Florida Fighting Conch for your substrate.. There sponges & gorgonions are first class as well.

 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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Rocks don't cause algae, all my tanks were started with dry rock, and once I passed the so-called ugly stage, I never had algae problems again. A 2 year old tank should be plenty mature enough to out-compete algae.

Algae is caused by an imbalance between nutrient import and export, and also a lack of algae grazers. What is your filtration like? Do you have a skimmer?
 

Subsea

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I use Hanna and Salifert. NO3 2 (S), PO4 0.00 (S), Ca 400 (S), kH 9.1 (H), pH 7.7.
Looks like zero phosphate and if nitrate reads 2ppm, I call that zero. I suggest you get your nutrients up.

With bottomed out phosphate & nitrate, opportunistic algaes like Dinoflagellates & Cynobacteria will proliferate. Diatoms are a healthy competitor to dino & cyno and everything in a cuc eats diatoms.

PS: Some dose silicates to grow diatoms as a competitor to dino & cyno.
 
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BryanM

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^^ What Subsea said - Bottoming out N or P is never good and almost always causes algae issues.

Feed more or dose nitrate and phosphate. The standard phos number is .06, though I prefer .1-.2. Nitrates seem more variable, I think mine are currently low at 9, yours are very low at 2.
 
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Briskee

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Rocks don't cause algae, all my tanks were started with dry rock, and once I passed the so-called ugly stage, I never had algae problems again. A 2 year old tank should be plenty mature enough to out-compete algae.

Algae is caused by an imbalance between nutrient import and export, and also a lack of algae grazers. What is your filtration like? Do you have a skimmer?
Octo Elite 200 Skimmer, Varios return pump. Pretty standard or basic I guess.
 

exnisstech

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I don't think some type of rock causes GHA but I'm a firm believer GHA thrives on some rocks. I had a tank infested and I put a piece of old live rock from another tank in and no GHA grew on it. I also don't believe the thought process that higher nutrients cause it, at least that has not been my experience.
I wish I was more help. I got lucky and my infested tank split a seam so I had to break it down before I beat it lol.
 

Fish Fan

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Yes, copepods can help with diatoms 🙂

Good luck!
 

CBonito

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Get tampa bay ocean live rock. Trash the fake man made stuff. Problem will be solved.
It's only a PITA until the algae passes, but yeah there is no substitute for the real thing. Fake rock sucks.
Only reason I'm keeping mine because all that is behind me. But it was a lot of trouble I could have spared myself.
 

Fish Fan

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I've started tanks with dry rock and sands, I've also use wet live rock form my local fish stores, and a couple of years ago I tried the maricultured stuff from the good ladies at Tampa Bay Saltwater. The TBS rock and sand is now hands down my favorite way to start a tank.

That said, I know some members here really embrace the dry rock and sand approach. I don't think that a certain kind of rock necessarily means you'll have a problem, but I do feel that using real, live rock will minimize any problems you may have.

As mentioned by @Subsea and others, simply adding a little well seasoned or maricultured live rock to your system, can have a dramatic and positive effect.

Best of luck here!
 

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